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im really stumped now.

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangbang302
  • Start date Start date Mar 7, 2009
S

stangbang302

New Member
Jul 13, 2007
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0
fort valley, ga
Mar 7, 2009
#1
  • Mar 7, 2009
  • #1
i have a 89 lx with an explorer motor, e303 cam, mass air conversion, stock h pipe, stock throttle body/egr, i have the car running but it idles really slow doesnt rev fast like ive seen, i drove the car recently and my little cavalier would whoop up on it. any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Mar 7, 2009
#2
  • Mar 7, 2009
  • #2
Start by pulling codes.
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Mar 7, 2009
#3
  • Mar 7, 2009
  • #3
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 
B

blownsn95cobra

New Member
Mar 7, 2009
13
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Jeannette
Mar 8, 2009
#4
  • Mar 8, 2009
  • #4
not top dead center, out of time, not enough fuel pressure, bad wire connection, spark plugs bad or gapped wrong, just name the easy things cuz i usually go with the major things first and always seems to be something little and dumb for me
 
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