Is this unusual?

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cweis56601

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Bemidji, MN

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• #1

94 Convertible, the Essex 232 V6 in it looks different than photos I've seen, location of air intake and distributor are different as well as the distributor being rectangular instead of round. Replacement engine I guess and I don't know what to think about that.
Also, distributor seems to be connected like:
1-2-3
5-4-6
Seems strange.
Now today, stalls immediately upon start. Want to check plugs and injectors, no repair funds yet but I'm wondering about the distributor. Any thoughts are appreciated : )

 

Potomus Pete

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Consider pictures. I'm wondering what a rectangle DIZZY looks like

 

Noobz347

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Firing Order:



Have you pulled codes? What are they?


The thread title made me do it:

 

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Mustang5L5

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#4

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1994 was a coil pack. Not distributor



The later 3.8s had a revised manifold

 

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cweis56601

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Bemidji, MN

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"It's not unusual for old Stangs to barely run
It's not unusual to find fixing them is fun"
: )
I'm woefully underequipped, so no codes.
I was mistaken; the cables were in the right order.
I'm missing a 5/8 deepwell for the plugs but in the meantime I pulled the cables and cleaned the posts and sockets with alcohol. #2 had moderate corrosion.
After that, "Pony-Boy" isn't stalling and sounds almost normal, but I think it's probably misfiring. It hesitates slightly when throttle is applied and wobbles lightly. Intermittent low idle, possibly only when engine is hot.

 

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cweis56601

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Bemidji, MN

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I meant coil pack. "Ah geez"

 

Mustang5L5

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Yeah…nothing out of the ordinary there. Looks right for 1994

 

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Noobz347

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So, what happened after it stalled? Did it run normally after that?

While you have the time, start looking through [all] of your vacuum hoses and wires etc. You're looking for cracks, dry rot, kinks, along with breaks or corrosion on wires and connectors.

A lot of times, the simple stuff will go a long way.

 

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cweis56601

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I've had it about a month and the symptoms are:
Turns over too much before firing
Stalls immediately after firing
Doesn't turn over too much or stall immediately upon 2nd or 3rd attempt
Sometimes low idling and misfiring for about 5 to 15 seconds after starting, then RPMs go up to about 1500 and then drop right away to normal (800). Which makes sense, just need to address reason for the misfiring.
Today what happened is that it didn't recover from faltering and instead just kept stalling, so immediately that it was basically like not starting. But I believe it does fire, just stalls right away. Aftet I did what I described earlier, it went back to only stalling after 1st or 2nd attempt. I do realize that could be a coincidence.
Also, when driving, it hesitates slightly (goes to stall but doesn't, makes me think) when throttle is applied from stop. And it seems it lacks power at the bottom of 1st, starting out. Acceleration is normal above that point.
I need to replace plugs and have someone see if the injectors are fouled or malfunctioning. And also look for vaccuum leaks and wire issues, indeed : )
I know just a little and I think this car will be good for learning with.

 

Noobz347

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Try this when it's cold:

Turn the key to the ON position and leave it for a couple of seconds or until you hear the fuel pump stop priming but do [not] start it.
Repeat this 2 more times.
Start it normally, no gas pedal no nothing. Just turn the key to start and tell us what happens.

 

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cweis56601

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#11

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Indeed, didn't stall : ) Thanks

 

Noobz347

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cweis56601 said:

Indeed, didn't stall : ) Thanks

Click to expand...

That's usually an indication that the fuel pump is going bad and to a lesser degree, a possible bad fuel regulator.

It is also possible that a fuel leak exists somewhere.


Generally, it's the pump.

 

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manicmechanic007

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It does have a EDIS module and a CMP where the distributor once was IIRR
So, if you are driving it around with a fuel pressure gauge on it and it dies and still has fuel pressure, check that EDIS module
That CMP just times the injector pulse and gives the pip signal for the EDIS

 

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cweis56601

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Bemidji, MN

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The fuel delivery issue seems to get worse once the engine is hot, I'm curious about that. I wonder if it's the fuel pump relay or pump itself, fuel filter, or something else.

 

manicmechanic007

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Test the fuel pressure
Drive it around with a pressure gauge taped to the windshield

 

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cweis56601

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I'm curious as to how that would point to the problem part.

 

Noobz347

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#17

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If the pump is weak, bypassing internally, or cavitating, it would show as low or fluctuating fuel pressure.


If it were me, I'd just change the pump. Been there/Done that kind of thing.

 

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cweis56601

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Bemidji, MN

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#18

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Indeed, well I'm assuming I have low pressure based on symptoms, I suppose replacing the fuel filter and seeing if that helps would be first, along with testing the fuel pump relay ... and if it's still an issue after that then I can assume it's the pump, right?

 

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cweis56601

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Bemidji, MN

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Ah geez, brake line to the passenger rear wheel needs replacement. Thinking I gotta buy the flared-end tool and learn how to use it because a repair shop is probably gonna stick it to me!

 

Noobz347

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cweis56601 said:

Ah geez, brake line to the passenger rear wheel needs replacement. Thinking I gotta buy the flared-end tool and learn how to use it because a repair shop is probably gonna stick it to me!

Click to expand...

It's like Doritos man. You can do just one.

 

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