Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

Could've just bought the 3/4" 36 spline steering u-joint off EBAY and made your own.
Everything I’ve read said welding was involved when combining different parts to make one work. Not something I can do.

Also if you’ve kept up with my progress thread (don’t expect you to), I have very limited time to actually do anything so I want to buy parts that just work out of the box. Probably not the best way to own a project car, but here we are.
 
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Best news I’ve received in a while:

IMG_9589.webp
 
Got that f’r in!

Bolts/set screws are all still loose. Will need to tighten them up tomorrow but my steering wheel now turns the wheels.

I also now see how the MM shaft works where the top input shaft piece is removable and is splined… wasn’t processing that in my head previously. Thought it was all welded together so I couldn’t see how it could not be lined up correctly.

Either way my steering wheel is straight when the wheels are pointing straight. I need an alignment bad I think I have toe-out on both wheels.


IMG_9590.webp

IMG_9591.webp

Hardest part was just getting the upper ujoint into the splined input shaft, if that’s what it’s called (the piece that goes into the column shaft).

I just wanted to get it in for now, I will paint it as well soon.
 
Interesting. Got all the bolts tightened down and started just following MM’s instructions on verifying rack center and steering wheel center (which they were). However, during that process I heard a loud hissing when I was turning the wheel, and PS fluid must’ve escaped out of the pump with the cap on, sprayed just behind the battery, kind of just above the coil and onto the fender.

Why would it do this after previously having the car on and turning the wheel numerous times with no issues. Car was off during this latest process. I had to suck out some PS fluid from the pump reservoir because it was so close to overflowing after removing the cap and soaking up what fluid did flow out. Made somewhat of a mess under the car.

Besides that I’m at the point of doing one more bleed process with the wheels in the air (car running), then lowering the car back to the ground and doing the bleed with weight on the tires.

Have an appointment for Wednesday for an alignment, then should be all good to go.
 
Got the car down on the ground and bled as good as I can get it. Turned the wheels back and forth under load a bunch, only saw like one or two air bubbles come up after the first side to side.

Next up is driving it to the alignment shop, or down the street and back before then if I can.
 
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So my dad is in town visiting and we were wrenching on the stang trying to figure out the belt squeal on startup.

I first tried tightening the supercharger belt to 100ftlb to see if that was it. It wasn’t.

Then I had my dad put extra tension on the OEM tensioner during startup, no more belt squeal. So we narrowed it down to the serpentine belt. I also loosened the supercharger belt back down to 70ftlb.

Do you think my stock tensioner just isn’t putting enough tension on the drive belt even if the tensioner is within “range”? I was thinking of buying a new tensioner to see if that helps, or is my problem elsewhere still?
 
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It was on the “A” in “range” which is on the looser side of things. My belt is ‘tight’ getting it on so I don’t think it’s a belt length issue (I went through 4 belts getting one that worked right).
 
Watch the belt when you rev the engine and if the tensioner moves a lot or the belt is not stable that’s usually a sign it’s done.

When mine was at its end the belt would get unstable when I revd the motor.
 
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