Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

Run a piece of string around the back of the back tire making it long enough to go around the outside of the rear tire and long enough to reach beyond the front of the front tire
Pull on the string to make if flush with the entire outside of the back tire and see how the front tire lines up...
My understanding is you want as small amount of toe in as you can get to get you to the alignment shop..
 
Drove the car down to the alignment shop. So weird, when driving I was getting a super loud clunk… to the point I had to pull over and make sure I didn’t fubar something up like my rack coming off or something. Couldn’t see anything out of place so I kept going, but asked them to take a look. They said my drivers strut top nut was super loose… no idea how that happened I’ve driven the car before without issue and I never touched that nut.

Anyways, all good now. Alignment was per MM’s specs except caster, they couldn’t get the amount of negative caster due to the strut tower holes not allowing the camber plates to move forward enough?

The tech working on my car has a foxbody with full MM suspension so I trust what he was saying, maybe I’m not explaining it correctly. Either way, steering wheel is center and the car tracks straight.

IMG_9602.webp

Edit: oh and I did see a kid in a Kia filming me as I passed by him… always makes ya feel good.
 
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Ordered and installed a new ACDelco tensioner from RA. Haven’t been able to start the car yet so haven’t determined if it fixes my issue or not.

I did notice the new tensioner pulley is ever so slightly smaller than the my OEM one which now puts a little more ‘belt wrap’ around the AC, which I think is a good thing.

OEM tensioner pulley didn’t sound very smooth when spinning it by hand.
 
Some remote mount the sending units using a flexible hose from the block to a Tee fitting, others have tapped the extension, and others have used a Tee on the end of the factory extension.

Couldn't find a picture of a remote mount but you can google fu that if want.

So either buy one of these or drill and tap the factory one you have:
1763320120692.webp


Ends up looking something like this:
1763320059990.webp


Using a Tee on the end of the factory extension:
1763319963905.webp
 
Some remote mount the sending units using a flexible hose from the block to a Tee fitting, others have tapped the extension, and others have used a Tee on the end of the factory extension.

Couldn't find a picture of a remote mount but you can google fu that if want.

So either buy one of these or drill and tap the factory one you have:
1763320120692.webp


Ends up looking something like this:
1763320059990.webp


Using a Tee on the end of the factory extension:
1763319963905.webp
Awesome thank you, the second picture I think looks like the best route to go.
 
So the new ACDelco tensioner did not fix my belt squeal. It still does it for a split second at start up, and then also the belt starts to squeal at high rpms under load. I'm wondering if (as someone mentioned previously), if its just the belt? Maybe i can find a more 'grippy' belt and a 1/10th or 2 shorter than what i have currently (90.31").

I drove her to work today and ran my KOER tests, and can report good news of Code 11. So now i have code 11 for both KOEO and KOER.

Edit: I think i'm gonna throw the stock waterpump and alternator pulley's back on and see if has something do with those, since i am running the Cobra versions.
 
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I chased that squeal on the Dump Truck all day, replaced every pulley/bearing and adjuster on that 7.3 until I noticed a spot where the belt had a 'hitch in it's geddyup', swapped the belt (I kept spares) and the squeak went away :doh:
I'd change the belt first..
 
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I finally F'n did it!

Got the belt squeal to go away.

As mentioned, i figured i'd swap back to my OEM waterpump and alternator pulley's since i was running the Cobra version pulleys but with the Paxton crank pulley. Anyways, got those swapped, used my 90.95" belt that I had from trying so many differrent belts out before, and wah-lah, started her up with zero belt squeal. So this whole damn time it was just me using the wrong pulleys, or maybe a combo of the wrong pulleys and the 90.95" belt being a 'better' belt? Who knows.

Can't believe i've been chasing belt length, pulley alignment, etc. Just a simple fix that I should have started out with.

I'm getting pretty good at swapping belts now. Jacking the car up, swapping the two pulleys, drive belt and removing/replacing the s/c'r belt took all but 45 minutes.

At this time I believe the car is good to just drive. Everything else (parts on hand) are just ‘wants’.
 
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Was wanting to start assembling the coilovers. Got everything laid out, removed the stickers within two inches of the ears, and got to the point of needing to file down the top strut ring for the top hat to fit over before being summoned by the 4 year old:

IMG_9729.webp

So basically did not get too far.
 
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