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lets talk T5's WC vs NWC

  • Thread starter Thread starter srtthis
  • Start date Start date Apr 1, 2013

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#1
  • Apr 1, 2013
  • #1
major difference...
fiber vs bronze syncros

which is better?

i know all an all the T5 is junk in stock form. but honestly is one better then the other?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#2
  • Apr 1, 2013
  • #2
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm

some reading about the 2...
 

jrichker

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  • Apr 1, 2013
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Gearbanger 101

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#4
  • Apr 2, 2013
  • #4
The later the Fox T5 you can get ahold of, the higher the torque capacity rating. The T5Z was about the cream of the crop as far as Ford offerings go. Get into something aftermarket (Astro Performance, D&D, etc) and they can really hold some power.
 

srtthis

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#5
  • Apr 2, 2013
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i know im going to over power pretty much all of them unless its a Gforce or an astro.

one thing i do find funny is i know its been rebuilt before. since the inspcetion tag has been removed along with the blue RTV on the front bearing support. but the front bearing race in the link i has pictures shows the difference between the NWC and the WC bearing race. mines the same as the WC. but im running all bronze syncros along with the case showing an 84 V8 T5
 

NIKwoaC

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#6
  • Apr 2, 2013
  • #6
srtthis said:
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm

some reading about the 2...
Click to expand...

That's a good article, but I find it funny how they praise the T5-Z (something you can buy from them) but then go on to come up with reasons why not to buy a T5 with an aftermarket gearset (G-Force or Astro A-5, something you cannot buy from them).

Sometimes companies like that will produce good tech articles, but you kind of have to read between the lines to see the bias that comes with trying to sell a certain product.
 

1200gt

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#7
  • Apr 3, 2013
  • #7
jrichker said:
Click to expand...

Possibly considering a new G-Box of WC make, but I notice in your profile footnote that you have a Tremec 3550. I also have this trans as one of my option as I have a 3550 in the storage that I planed to put behind my (not happenig!) 377 build.

Wondering if I should go thru the process of installing it being that most of what I've read praises the t5 smooth shifting and the sort. My case, I don't plan on racing the car, but a redlight or two might see a pretty good launch occasinally. BTW, I have an 86 t5 which I believe is not very stout.

What's your thoughts? BTW, J would you take a look at my Thread: A/C Overhaul when you get time and give me your input. Thanks
 

2000xp8

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#8
  • Apr 3, 2013
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I think it's irrelevant and you are going to break nearly any T5.
Traction is worse for them than power and you will probably have alot of traction.

I've been through a few, one of which was a Z.
Known too many people that have destroyed G forces to consider that build.

As is for a street trans i think the T5 is good.
On a car that will probably never see a launch below 5500? No way.
Get a tko. It will save you the trouble of buying a clutch twice.

I read your posts, you sound like a couple of the guys i know, guys that could make a living at destroying manual transmissions at the track.
 

jrichker

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#9
  • Apr 3, 2013
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1200gt said:
Possibly considering a new G-Box of WC make, but I notice in your profile footnote that you have a Tremec 3550. I also have this trans as one of my option as I have a 3550 in the storage that I planed to put behind my (not happenig!) 377 build.

Wondering if I should go thru the process of installing it being that most of what I've read praises the t5 smooth shifting and the sort. My case, I don't plan on racing the car, but a redlight or two might see a pretty good launch occasinally. BTW, I have an 86 t5 which I believe is not very stout.

What's your thoughts? BTW, J would you take a look at my Thread: A/C Overhaul when you get time and give me your input. Thanks
Click to expand...

The Tremec 3550 I have has been through over 13 years of service and 100,000 miles. It has had one rebuild, which was my fault, ran low on lubricant. It shifts smooth and fast, better than either one of the T5's I have had. Proper break-in and correct lubricant ( GM Syncromesh Black at $30 a quart x 3 quarts) are the keys to making it a rugged performer that is fun to drive.
 

1200gt

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#10
  • Apr 4, 2013
  • #10
jrichker said:
The Tremec 3550 I have has been through over 13 years of service and 100,000 miles. It has had one rebuild, which was my fault, ran low on lubricant. It shifts smooth and fast, better than either one of the T5's I have had. Proper break-in and correct lubricant ( GM Syncromesh Black at $30 a quart x 3 quarts) are the keys to making it a rugged performer that is fun to drive.
Click to expand...

Solid J! I trust your advice. I'll stick with my Tremec...

One thing? I got my Tremec with a Lakewood Bellhousing, I'm wondering if it will be overkill for my street duty car. I was thinking I should sell it and get a non-race unit to mate to the Tremec (whatever that would be) What do you think?

BTW, I just did a quick search for the GM Syncromesh Black and could'nt find a link thru google - some version called friction modified and that reported to phased out all-be-it and old post from another car site. Where can I get the "Black?"
 

srtthis

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#11
  • Apr 4, 2013
  • #11
2000xp8 said:
I think it's irrelevant and you are going to break nearly any T5.
Traction is worse for them than power and you will probably have alot of traction.

I've been through a few, one of which was a Z.
Known too many people that have destroyed G forces to consider that build.

As is for a street trans i think the T5 is good.
On a car that will probably never see a launch below 5500? No way.
Get a tko. It will save you the trouble of buying a clutch twice.

I read your posts, you sound like a couple of the guys i know, guys that could make a living at destroying manual transmissions at the track.
Click to expand...

ive been talking to a friend of mine who use to run pure street and i think my next step after this year is going to be an auto. nothing shifts as nice as a T5 and they all pretty much suck. i do need to sit down with another guy and see how his TKO feels since he did all the carbon blocker rings and all that stuff
 

jrichker

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#12
  • Apr 4, 2013
  • #12
1200gt said:
Solid J! I trust your advice. I'll stick with my Tremec...

One thing? I got my Tremec with a Lakewood Bellhousing, I'm wondering if it will be overkill for my street duty car. I was thinking I should sell it and get a non-race unit to mate to the Tremec (whatever that would be) What do you think?

BTW, I just did a quick search for the GM Syncromesh Black and could'nt find a link thru google - some version called friction modified and that reported to phased out all-be-it and old post from another car site. Where can I get the "Black?"
Click to expand...
The old Ford Mustang SROD bellhousings matched the 3550 transmission and 5.0 engine block. The only question is will they clear the clutch? If you have to buy another bellhousing, you may as well keep what you have. Be sure to follow Lakewood's alignment instructions to insure the best alignment and shift quality.

GM Syncromesh Black - GM dealers parts dept was where I got it the last time I needed some.
 

2000xp8

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#13
  • Apr 5, 2013
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srtthis said:
ive been talking to a friend of mine who use to run pure street and i think my next step after this year is going to be an auto. nothing shifts as nice as a T5 and they all pretty much suck. i do need to sit down with another guy and see how his TKO feels since he did all the carbon blocker rings and all that stuff
Click to expand...

TKO's shift just fine, i can't ever remember missing a gear or even thinking it was tough or notchy. One of the guys i know runs mid 10's on all motor in a full weight street car with one, every other trans he has broken (mostly input shafts, even broken a couple of cases of 3550's).
It puts up with my abuse, i've always had drag radials, my last combo was around 340rwhp, and then my cobra setup. I even use the same clutch, when i went to a modular all i did was change the flywheel and bellhousing.

Auto's are fine for the track, but damn are they boring on the street.
 

1200gt

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#14
  • Apr 5, 2013
  • #14
2000xp8 said:
TKO's shift just fine, i can't ever remember missing a gear or even thinking it was tough or notchy. One of the guys i know runs mid 10's on all motor in a full weight street car with one, every other trans he has broken (mostly input shafts, even broken a couple of cases of 3550's).
It puts up with my abuse, i've always had drag radials, my last combo was around 340rwhp, and then my cobra setup. I even use the same clutch, when i went to a modular all i did was change the flywheel and bellhousing.

Auto's are fine for the track, but damn are they boring on the street.
Click to expand...

I agree about the auto's, I had one in my last stang and though it was great in traffic, It just didn't get me all-excited! when driving it from corner-to-corner.

What did you do with your old bellhousing that mated to the Tremec after going modular? I'm looking to get a stand Bell to mate to my 3550.

BTW, what shifter are you using? I have a Pro 50 slated for install but have beem reading good things about the (I believe the name is) MCM ?? Have to look it up again...
 

srtthis

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#15
  • Apr 5, 2013
  • #15
MGW... id break one of them in a weekend.

prob going to break my pro5.0 again this year also lol.
 

RacEoHolic330

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#16
  • Apr 5, 2013
  • #16
MGW is probably what you are referring to. If you already have a lakewood bell, why not keep it? Yes, they are big and heavy but it will work. Like said above, make sure you index it properly.
 

1200gt

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#17
  • Apr 5, 2013
  • #17
RacEoHolic330 said:
MGW is probably what you are referring to. If you already have a lakewood bell, why not keep it? Yes, they are big and heavy but it will work. Like said above, make sure you index it properly.
Click to expand...

That's it: MGW!

I might just keep the Lakewood. Afterall, it paid for

I'll check back with you, if you don't mind when I get to the Lakewood indexing stage.

Thanks friend.

BTW, I just jumped into your build thread! I haven't gotten thru but the first 6 pages.... Can't wait to get deeper into the build. You're probably finished with, but I'll save the suspense for the end...

So far it appears to have been a fun build. The header mod looked to be fun - that's where I am now...
 

RacEoHolic330

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#18
  • Apr 5, 2013
  • #18
Very far from finished, but thanks! The good stuff hasn't even started yet.

Good luck with your project. Indexing the bellhousing isn't hard, you just need the right tools.
 

1200gt

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#19
  • Apr 5, 2013
  • #19
RacEoHolic330 said:
Very far from finished, but thanks! The good stuff hasn't even started yet.

Good luck with your project. Indexing the bellhousing isn't hard, you just need the right tools.
Click to expand...

Cool for me, that you're not finished with your project...

I can take it slow reading thru all the post on your project then. By the time I finish reading every post, you should be finished with your car right?Ouch!

Really, it's good stuff to read, watch, and learn. I just wish I could weld as good as you. I have a mig, but haven't wire a 220 connect for it yet.

I also wish I have a biggggg 4 car garage like you guys lol My friends tell me that I the only guy they know of that can squeeze a five car garage into a one car space! I tell them I'm just neat like that

I'll connect with you when I get ready to index the Lakewood.
 
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