I took this with the kindle so not really clear but you can see that the factory assembly manual shows that it will be as high as the F (full) on the dip stick.
start it up, get it warm, change the oil, drive it like you stole it.
I took this with the kindle so not really clear but you can see that the factory assembly manual shows that it will be as high as the F (full) on the dip stick.
start it up, get it warm, change the oil, drive it like you stole it.
Thats a 89 manual, don't over think it. If you feel the need just change the oil at 1000, then at whatever regular interval you usually do. then get on with life, I change mine with synthetic every 5k. 5 quarts and a filter.
Now about that ground cable. Follow the ground cable from the negative post on the battery and see where it goes. Report back to us.
The starter staying engaged while the engine is running may be a separate issue.
So the wire that you hooked up to the timing cover does go to the negative side of the battery?
If it was not bolted on to begin with, and you bolted it on then I don't see how the car started before with it not grounded?
In looking back at your pictures, the ground wire to the inner fender, although it is a smaller wire/cable, it probably provided enough ground to start the car. Not ideal, but probably worked. I think they simply forgot to bolt the bigger cable on, and I do not think you bolting it back onto the timing cover caused your starter to hang up.
Chris
I’m wondering how you know the starter stays engaged? And how you know that it isn’t staying engaged while running. Are you using the separator plater between the block and transmission?Surprised that little cable didn’t burn up!
My starter stays engaged if I just bump the key to start it. If I turn the key all the way, no issues. I’m sure it’s my ignition switch, and one of these days I’ll change it. New one sitting on workbench.
Engaged is the wrong word. It releases from flywheel, but the starter motor stays running. If I then turn the key all the way forward, it stops.I’m wondering how you know the starter stays engaged? And how you know that it isn’t staying engaged while running. Are you using the separator plater between the block and transmission?
I would bet the ground from the back of driver side cylinder head (or a bellhousing bolt) to firewall grounded engine to body giving enough to start car.If it was not bolted on to begin with, and you bolted it on then I don't see how the car started before with it not grounded?
I would bet the ground from the back of driver side cylinder head (or a bellhousing bolt) to firewall grounded engine to body giving enough to start car.
As far as temp gauge, is sender plugged in? (see pic in post #98) If connected and gauge not working, I would change the sender.
Speedo cable, inspect for melted sections where it touched exhaust. If so, then replace. Did you reconnect the hold down bracket at the trans? You could also disconnect speedo cable at trans. Use a cordless drill to grab small (square) inner cable and run drill. Speedo should spin up. If not, cable broken internally.
Good luck
That does not sound like a 500 rpm idle to me. Sounds more like 750-800 I would sooner suspect that the tach is not accurate.
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