Looking For Good Mustang Mechanic
- Thread starter Chad91gt
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Absolutely, whole-heartedly, go see Daniel Cach at Advanced Auto. I've had a bunch of terrible experiences until I found this shop. Talk to Daniel Cach
925-831-9338
2047 San Ramon Valley Blvd
San Ramon, CA 94583
925-831-9338
2047 San Ramon Valley Blvd
San Ramon, CA 94583
awesome. Thank you. He knows all about mustangs? Good at trouble shooting? Is he expensive
Yes, he knows the foxbody pretty well. I think he ran a mustang specific shop before this current one.
I think his labor rate was $125/hr, which is par for the course in that area. However, the amount of time he charged was substantially less than I anticipated. Overall, I felt that what I paid was more than fair. His ability to troubleshoot seemed pretty good to me.
What's going on with your car?
I think his labor rate was $125/hr, which is par for the course in that area. However, the amount of time he charged was substantially less than I anticipated. Overall, I felt that what I paid was more than fair. His ability to troubleshoot seemed pretty good to me.
What's going on with your car?
I having a code 41 and 67. Getting frustrated dealing with it. Really don't have alot of room to work on it either.
From Jrichker's code thread: Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
You'd also get a code 67 from a disconnected/faulty neutral safety switch connection.
Code 41 is a lean code. If you've replaced the O2 sensors, try finding a vacuum leak.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
You'd also get a code 67 from a disconnected/faulty neutral safety switch connection.
Code 41 is a lean code. If you've replaced the O2 sensors, try finding a vacuum leak.
can I do a koeo text from inside? How else can I lush the clutch I'm? Also if code is still there after I do that does that mean switch is disconnected or no good? Also once I fix that and do test with engine running will it give me more info on what's causing code 41? I changed the o2 and that made no difference.
For the clutch, you'll need a buddy. Regarding the O2 sensor code, I'm assuming you cleared the codes after installing the O2 and it came back, right? If not, clear the codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a half hour. Then you'll have to drive a while to see if it comes back on. Rerunning the test won't give you any more info unless you've changed something.
I imagine your switch is fine. Otherwise, the car shouldn't crank over.
I imagine your switch is fine. Otherwise, the car shouldn't crank over.
So if it still runs like crap after I intsall o2.. what's next. I installed the o2.. then disconnected battery for 30 min. Drove again and ram a little worse actially.back fire once or twice when I got on it and actually dies out a couple times . . Still smells rich..so what should I look at next? The exhaust is new .. with shorty headers ...would a MAF cause a 41? Today? I'm. It sure what to look at next? Fyi.. I put the old o2 back in. Looks like new ..
That it runs slightly worse after replacing an O2 sensor and disconnecting the battery is somewhat expected. You're clearing out the computer's fuel trim adjustments and codes simultaneously. Backfiring, however, is not to be expected. Obviously something is wrong.
If it smells rich, yet your getting a lean code, there are several possibilities. You could be running rich at idle, yet lean under load. Another situation that might cause this issue is if you have an ignition problem. If unburned fuel and air is making it through a cylinder, then the O2 sensor senses the extra O2 in the exhaust and assumes there's a lean condition. It injects additional fuel to compensate, but no matter how much fuel is injected, it will never be able to fix the ignition problem. While ample fuel is there, even causing a rich condition, the O2 remains unburned because there's no spark.
Yes, an issue with the MAF could definitely also cause a lean condition. This might happen if the MAF transfer function is not matched correctly to the specific MAF and injectors you're using. Are you running a stock MAF and injectors? I wonder, if this were the case, why you'd only have the code on one bank.
If you're serious about tracking this down, look up @jrichker posts on similar issues. I'm sure he has a checklist for this very code somewhere, lol. If you're lucky, he might pop in here and give you a hand in diagnosing this.
If it smells rich, yet your getting a lean code, there are several possibilities. You could be running rich at idle, yet lean under load. Another situation that might cause this issue is if you have an ignition problem. If unburned fuel and air is making it through a cylinder, then the O2 sensor senses the extra O2 in the exhaust and assumes there's a lean condition. It injects additional fuel to compensate, but no matter how much fuel is injected, it will never be able to fix the ignition problem. While ample fuel is there, even causing a rich condition, the O2 remains unburned because there's no spark.
Yes, an issue with the MAF could definitely also cause a lean condition. This might happen if the MAF transfer function is not matched correctly to the specific MAF and injectors you're using. Are you running a stock MAF and injectors? I wonder, if this were the case, why you'd only have the code on one bank.
If you're serious about tracking this down, look up @jrichker posts on similar issues. I'm sure he has a checklist for this very code somewhere, lol. If you're lucky, he might pop in here and give you a hand in diagnosing this.
Oh, btw, the code 41 looks like is the right bank, which I assume means that if you're going to go through the trouble of pulling plugs, you should be looking at the passenger side, cylinders 1-4.
I have had the car only a couple weeks . I did discover that it has a 76mm cl maf.. and when I move it around the idle jumps all over the place. I was also thinking of changing plugs any ways .. What's recomended for plugs? Also should just purchase a stock mad? Seems like over kill now . Only have full exhaust and CAI..
Does the MAF have the sampling tube that corresponds to the injectors on your car? If you're not sure, I believe you can tell by looking at the sampling tube and comparing the info with C&L's website. If the injectors are FMS injectors, their color will tell you what kind they are.
What kind of heads are you running? That will dictate the plugs you need. I haven't run stock in so long I don't even remember the correct plug anymore, but that's a quick google search away.
What kind of heads are you running? That will dictate the plugs you need. I haven't run stock in so long I don't even remember the correct plug anymore, but that's a quick google search away.
From what I can tell so far. The heads are stock.. also has the stock orange and black 19ib. Injectors... it looks like the actual maf sensor is stock. From want i can see . The housing is a 76mm cl.. is the metering tube the small inlet inside the housing? The c&l website is pretty vague .. I am going to change plugs today . Still don't really know about the cl maf.. any help would be awesome
Check the ignition switch under the dash on the steering column, they are know for bad connections
Pull the plastic from around the column, 3 Phillips head screws, remove the plastic piece of the dash below the column 4 or 5 torxs head or 6mm I think, be careful, there is one on the right side by the steering column just below the cluster that is not obvious then look on the lower part of the column for a harness plugged into a switch mounted to the column, you may need what are called tamper proof torxs bits, they have a hole at the end.https://www.bing.com/images/search?...D91CC076C07BE2F86020AF0E1A4F851F7&FORM=IQFRBA
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