Low Dyno Numbers Help!

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IMO you need to go back to the dyno shop and demand the sheet. It'd be nice to know what your AFR was during the pull too. If there is an issue I'd say there has to be a fuel delivery problem or valve train issue. Data logging would help.
 
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No codes no check engine light and I agreed on checking the cam was dot to dot and possibly swaping the cam and then coming back to the dyno for a re run at a discount but Anderson assured me the cam was not too big and told me they always install the n-41 dot to dot
You could have codes without the cel on.
I will guarantee if anderson motorsports installs a cam they will degree it, look at any magazine cam install, you don't need to swap that cam. You may have a valve spring problem, you may have picked the dyno shop, without a sheet we are stabbing in the dark here.
Just my thoughts.
 
Is the car an auto or manual?
Dynojet or mustang dyno?

As far as extrude honing, i'm a big fan, just not a big fan of paying for it.
I had a set of extrude honed tw's a few years ago.

I'd be curious too as to how the car feels.
218rwhp is stock bolt on territory so it really should feel pretty much stock...
 
Put new plugs in, or use a wire wheel to clean the plugs in it. Take it for a drive and pull the plugs again. I think you're running on 6 cylinders. So, either the injectors aren't firing or the plugs aren't. Either way, you'll see it in the plugs.
 
Plugs in it were brand new before the dyno and it’s definetley running on all 8. Fired right up and sounded good

I drove around on 7 cylinders due to a dead injector for almost a year. Didn't know it because car felt great. I only happened to discover it when I pulled codes and ran a cylinder balance test and it told me cyl4 was dead.

Fixing that injector felt like I added 50HP, but even on 7cyl the car ripped around pretty good
 
You need all the info you can get when dealing with efi. Thats why the computer reads sensors to get info, when you checked for codes did you get the code for everything is ok or did you get no codes at all? Reading the plugs can tell you somethings, that dyno sheet could have some info to help too. This could be as easy as bumping up the timing or more complicated like a vacuum leak or weak valve springs, and yes you can have weak valve springs on new heads. You have a lot of hp hiding there someplace.
 
Do a compression check. It'll help to see the condition of the engine as well as tell you whether or not the camshaft is way off from spec. I have a diatribe on my web site Tech Section called "Dot to Dot" about accumulated tolerance stack up and why EVERY camshaft needs to be degreed in....

Do the basics too.... Check all the normal things, timing, fuel pressure, plug gap, meter voltage and throw a vacuum gauge on it. Simple things show a lot.

In terms of power levels... you should see 290 RWHP on a decent Dynojet... give or take.

As for the F cam suggestion.... Now I'm scared of that shop. They're well known if that's Lidio's place but an F cam? WTF ?? Pure stupidity.
 
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Do a compression check. It'll help to see the condition of the engine as well as tell you whether or not the camshaft is way off from spec. I have a diatribe on my web site Tech Section called "Dot to Dot" about accumulated tolerance stack up and why EVERY camshaft needs to be degreed in....

Do the basics too.... Check all the normal things, timing, fuel pressure, plug gap, meter voltage and throw a vacuum gauge on it. Simple things show a lot.

In terms of power levels... you should see 290 RWHP on a decent Dynojet... give or take.

As for the F cam suggestion.... Now I'm scared of that shop. They're well known if that's Lidio's place but an F cam? WTF ?? Pure stupidity.

He says he did. Numbers seem low at 140-155..