Mach 1 Whipple Swap

Different priorities. When I bought my 2000 I was on a budget and having a fast NA GT was pretty rare, cheap and it worked well for racing NMRA and FFW events. I drove it daily but I also lost some streetability with it. The local street scene was completely dead also (hang outs, car cruises, etc...).

The Mach 1 on the other hand has been pushed, everyone knows what they run in NA form and I can't afford (financially and time wise) to race an event series so no real racing other than local stuff. So no reason to gut and ruin a car like this. It's much easier to build it for big power and keep most of the refinements and just enjoy it. Plus the local scene is revived a bit so there are some local hang outs to show off the car and BS.

Bill

Oh Bill, how you have changed over the years! As we have all.


Great job on the build. I can't wait to see what this does with a great driver behind the wheel. I still remember the day when we were shooting the blank at FFW in Houston, many, many years ago when I was in high school in Houston. You drove you 4.30 geared car to HRP.



Keep us updated.

Mark
 
Oh Bill, how you have changed over the years! As we have all.


Great job on the build. I can't wait to see what this does with a great driver behind the wheel. I still remember the day when we were shooting the blank at FFW in Houston, many, many years ago when I was in high school in Houston. You drove you 4.30 geared car to HRP.



Keep us updated.

Mark

That was 2003, just over 6 years ago. Hard to believe it's been that long. My aluminum driveshaft showed up as I was leaving for the race and brought it with me and installed in the pits on Friday. I made it to the quarter finals in Mod Motor also that was a good weekend.
 
Stock Mach 1 PCM with the Cobra value files brought in and adjusted for MAF, injectors, timing. Jeremy is doing the tune for me.

I have a Metco aux idler to add but the belt is too short for it. It should be okay for break in but before I put it on the dyno for a real tune I'll get the right belt and aux idler on.

Bill
 
Stock Mach 1 PCM with the Cobra value files brought in and adjusted for MAF, injectors, timing. Jeremy is doing the tune for me.

I have a Metco aux idler to add but the belt is too short for it. It should be okay for break in but before I put it on the dyno for a real tune I'll get the right belt and aux idler on.

Bill
Sounds good Bill. Can't wait to see the results! :nice:
 
I had a pretty nerve racking weekend but everything worked out in the end. On Saturday I got to the point where I could crank the engine over without fuel to prime it before starting it. After a few phone calls and a dead battery I still had no oil pressure. I left in frustration only to come back a few hours later with a clear head and checked the oil filter. The filter was full so I tightened it back up and decided that even without pressure on auto meter gauge there was oil circulating so I hooked up the fuel pumps. The car wouldn't fire up for more than a few seconds but immediately I saw oil pressure.

This morning I had my tuner look at the tune again and found a problem, tried it again and the car is running. No strange noises, no oil/coolant/exhaust leaks. I'm going to burp the cooling system in a little bit and shoot some video of it running.

Before I can take it on the street I need to change out the front springs, double check all suspension parts to make sure they are tight, align the front end, install front bumper/headlights, wire the reverse lockout, put the shifter boot back in and burp the intercooler lines.
 
Disaster (maybe a bit too strong of a word here) struck last night. I let the car idle and get up to temp to burp the coolant system and it was running nice and quiet up till about minute 8-9 and it developed a tick that got louder and louder. Sounds like a lifter went bad in the passenger side head. I'm going to pull it back apart and hope it's just a lifter in that head anything else and the engine has to come out.

Bill
 
After a few weeks of frustration I believe I found the problem. I made the stupid mistake of re-using my low mileage stock plastic tensioners and the passenger side one either failed or the o-ring didn't seal causing it to collapse at full temp. When it collapsed it allowed slack in the chain and caused my ticking noise. When I pulled the cover the tensioner was completely dead and the chain was nearly touching the opposite side.

I bought all new timing components including steel tensioners and should have it back together next week.

Bill