Progress Thread Matt's 93 Lx - Running Issues
- Thread starter mattyv
- Start date
nickpic
Advanced Member
Alright guys, small update. Swapped in a Motorcraft TFI since my Napa one was giving me problems. This is the 4th TFI I've had on the car since I bought it 4.5 months ago, but I knew I would have to get a motorcraft one eventually anyway.
Also sucked out what was left of the r12 and converted to r134a. The accumulator pressure switch is shot though and wasn't turning on the compressor. If you jump it out for a second the comp works fine and starts getting cool in the cab. Anyone try the 134 conversion pressure switches? Or should I just adjust the standard 12 switch?
Also sucked out what was left of the r12 and converted to r134a. The accumulator pressure switch is shot though and wasn't turning on the compressor. If you jump it out for a second the comp works fine and starts getting cool in the cab. Anyone try the 134 conversion pressure switches? Or should I just adjust the standard 12 switch?
SF Lex
Advanced Member
That one great looking Mustang. I am so jealous of the black paint. I have to get mines all black some day. Looks like you gotta bit of work to do, but well worth it. Cheers !
SF Lex
Advanced Member
Yes sir, that is correcto. That was the part that hurt me the most on my last sale. All the blood and sweat, and custom cool stuff done to it. But hey i went from Camaro to Mustang, i too need some stuff done. Although i have done some already, and yes it is most fun.
Fresh headlights! I can finally see at night! They still need to be adjusted up, though. Check out the drivers corner light. I don't know what the deal is. The old one fit nice and flush and there isn't really an adjustment. I might contact LMR and see what they say.
Hey guys I'm still around, just enjoying the car and slowly collecting parts for some winter work. Now that it's 80F-90F here, I'm having some overheating issues. The car only seems to overheat when you come to a stop after driving, then it creeps up.
Stock radiator, water pump, t-stat, etc. Only thing that aftermarket is BBk underdrive kit. But my understanding of those is that with the replacement crank and waterpump pulleys, the pump and fan are spinning at stock speeds (I'm going to switch back to stock anyway for the other accessories, but haven't done it yet).
I just did a flush and put in a new thermostat. Stat opens and both upper and lower hoses are nice and hot. Radiator is hot all over as well. Fan is pulling plenty of CFM and it's moving a lot of heat as well. I'm stumped because everything seems to be working OK, but the temp still creeps up. I'm tempted to order up an SVE 3 core but I don't want to band-aid a problem.
Thoughts? suggestions?
Stock radiator, water pump, t-stat, etc. Only thing that aftermarket is BBk underdrive kit. But my understanding of those is that with the replacement crank and waterpump pulleys, the pump and fan are spinning at stock speeds (I'm going to switch back to stock anyway for the other accessories, but haven't done it yet).
I just did a flush and put in a new thermostat. Stat opens and both upper and lower hoses are nice and hot. Radiator is hot all over as well. Fan is pulling plenty of CFM and it's moving a lot of heat as well. I'm stumped because everything seems to be working OK, but the temp still creeps up. I'm tempted to order up an SVE 3 core but I don't want to band-aid a problem.
Thoughts? suggestions?
I would check the temperature sending unit connection, if it gets loose sometimes it can cause erratic or creeps in temperature. I would verify with a thermometer the temperature you are seeing is correct.
Secondly the underdrive pulleys can contribute, you could bypass them with a shorter belt and see if it make a difference.
Secondly the underdrive pulleys can contribute, you could bypass them with a shorter belt and see if it make a difference.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
get rid of the useless U/D pulleys All they do is cause cooling and charging issues. Overheating at idle is usually one of a few things
- Fan not pulling enough CFM- what fan are you running
- Waterpump- we already know you've slowed down your pump by 10-15%
- Air in the system
Stock mechanical fan. It isn't new but doesn't seem to be slipping at all. I want to swap to contour fans and a 3G alternator in the fall.
I plan on putting stock pulleys back. According to BBK their "power pulley" kit doesn't reduce pump/fan speeds, but I'm still going to swap back.
Thanks guys
I plan on putting stock pulleys back. According to BBK their "power pulley" kit doesn't reduce pump/fan speeds, but I'm still going to swap back.
Thanks guys
SF Lex
Advanced Member
My aftermarket headlights which came with the car also sit that way. Not sure if there is any out there thats flush. Let us know what LMR says.Fresh headlights! I can finally see at night! They still need to be adjusted up, though. Check out the drivers corner light. I don't know what the deal is. The old one fit nice and flush and there isn't really an adjustment. I might contact LMR and see what they say.
Looking rad man. I'll definitely be watching this thread. Good work.
Thanks! Little by little
Anyone have any input on the BD-11a?
Ok small update, to keep the thread alive. I've been driving the car a lot and it's running great. 150 miles around town just this weekend. I got new headlight adjusters from LMR so I can finally see pretty well at night. I also popped in the replacement corner light and it's better, but not as good as the OEM was. This second one did not require any trimming like the first one did though.
So winter plans for the car - the motor will most likely be yanked out in order to gain some access to the strut towers. They aren't in bad shape but could definitely use some cleaning up and rust proof coating put on. My buddy is looking for an explorer that he can steal the 8.8 from for his Cherokee, so I told him to look out for a 96/97 that I can take the heads and intake from. There's a few around for ~$400. Split that in half, then junk the explorer after and then the heads and intake are dirt cheap. Send out the lower to TMoss and get some alex valve springs and a cam (TFS1/lunati/comp) to round off a very budget HCI. Thoughts? I still have that pile of parts from earlier that need to be installed. Upper and lower control arms, rear shocks, subframe connectors, 3.73s, and a full rear end rebuild kit.
In case anyone didn't see it on the other thread, here's a pic:
So winter plans for the car - the motor will most likely be yanked out in order to gain some access to the strut towers. They aren't in bad shape but could definitely use some cleaning up and rust proof coating put on. My buddy is looking for an explorer that he can steal the 8.8 from for his Cherokee, so I told him to look out for a 96/97 that I can take the heads and intake from. There's a few around for ~$400. Split that in half, then junk the explorer after and then the heads and intake are dirt cheap. Send out the lower to TMoss and get some alex valve springs and a cam (TFS1/lunati/comp) to round off a very budget HCI. Thoughts? I still have that pile of parts from earlier that need to be installed. Upper and lower control arms, rear shocks, subframe connectors, 3.73s, and a full rear end rebuild kit.
In case anyone didn't see it on the other thread, here's a pic:
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