Resolved Medussa's hair is in Mustang.

I can't believe how much my mustang not running right has effected my work and personal life!
This f ing thing is driving me crazy, literally.
Checked all that was suggested ,did base idle reset ( timming was off)and she still doesn't idle right,hiccups is what I call it. Idles at 800 ish, drops to 600 and back to 800rpms. She went threw four fan cycles and stalled twice in the garage, won't restart if I don't turn key to off and then cranks right up.
Rechecked codes koeo passed,koer 44 .
I think its the cheap Chinese distributor from O'Reilly .I mean if the module was :poo: then how good is the pip sensor?
Only thing is if I warrantee it out will the next one be better? How to I test for intermittent bad pip? I looked at Dragon fire distributor for $ 140 and hot forged for $335 . I'm at the end of my rope guys .
 
Hey Nicky, I feel for you, my car ran like crap for like 10 years but thanks to the people here I got it running strong. Just takes a little determination, gotta start back at square one sometimes. Remind me, car atarts up, stalls when warm right? Like how soon after you drive it?


Good post on testing pip, even though if you have a set of NOID lights to test with should be able to see if pip is working
 
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Does the idle hiccup soon after its running, about two or three minutes. Will keep running for awhile then when she's warm she stalls but starts up if I turn the key off then cranks right up. She stays funny by for a good while before she stalls again,but continues to hiccup all along. Not getting a code is fusterrating.
 
She starts with no problem,about three minutes in she starts the hiccups,then when warm she stalls . won't start up till I turn key off then starts right up.
 
Nicky I had the same exact problem a few years ago. Very frustrating.

I had a brand new distributor and TFI from Chyna when this was happening. I Replaced it with another new one from Chyna and still no bueno.

The solution for me was replacing the brand new Chinese distributor and TFI with a used Motorcraft OEM distributor and TFI from eBay.

That got me back up and running 95% better. Eliminated the shut-downs 95%.
The next thing I did was send out the ECU to ECU exchange after it was discovered that whenever I banged on the pass side kick panel that the car would shut off.
Once the ECU came back and with the OEM distributor/TFI installed I never had shut-down problem ever again.

Try a new distributor and that may fix
Your problem otherwise maybe consider a used OEM one if you’re open to that.

In addition, bang your kick panel while the car is running and see if it shuts off. I would be curious. Something was loose or bad inside my ECU that didn’t like vibration And shock and would also shut down the car.
 
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Nicky I had the same exact problem a few years ago. Very frustrating.

I had a brand new distributor and TFI from Chyna when this was happening. I Replaced it with another new one from Chyna and still no bueno.

The solution for me was replacing the brand new Chinese distributor and TFI with a used Motorcraft OEM distributor and TFI from eBay.

That got me back up and running 95% better. Eliminated the shut-downs 95%.
The next thing I did was send out the ECU to ECU exchange after it was discovered that whenever I banged on the pass side kick panel that the car would shut off.
Once the ECU came back and with the OEM distributor/TFI installed I never had shut-down problem ever again.

Try a new distributor and that may fix
Your problem otherwise maybe consider a used OEM one if you’re open to that.

In addition, bang your kick panel while the car is running and see if it shuts off. I would be curious. Something was loose or bad inside my ECU that didn’t like vibration And shock and would also shut down the car.
Thanks, ill.try that. I'm not spending anything for the replacement dist. So ill try that and look for a used ford one locally. Or just bite the bull it and buy a new one for the big bucks.
 
Yeah I looked it up and rock auto has it as cast gear not steel one.
But it was a 302 bronco so length wise its good. I've got another one in mind from a 91 fox.
 
Wow what a day so far! Called my brother in Colorado, he has a shop in Denver. He believes its fuel related, I told him I tried to check pressure but my Schrader valve is stripped, called CJ pony parts west and I drove cross town to get a motor craft valve $12.99 . on the way back I stopped by Nellis AFB, a guy on base had that Bronco dist. On marketplace and he just gave it to me,he'll of a nice guy, and he has a sweet 65 mustang. Stopped by AutoZone to rent a fuel pressure tester and they can't find it??? Two and a half hours in the car ,now I'm home eating a late lunch. Soon back to the garage to install new dist. And new valve, and call O'Reilly's to rent a FP tester.
 
If you'd stop screwing around with all your socializing and fine dining and cruising around town for no reason, you might get something done.
















































:jester:
Oh how right you arrrrr.( in my best Pirate voice)
Well,well,well. Dropped the new dist. ,set timing and I'm happier then a pig in :poo:. She idles smooth ,no hiccups. Cruised threw all the gears, she never once bucked or stalled.
Thank you all for putting up with all my wine ing , really thank you....

Now check out this score.
 
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Pics of bronco dist. Not loading. It came with msd cap n rotor, in new condition, aftermarket tfi, and looks original pip. Oh yes the gear looks cast.
Just wondering if a Chevy steel gear will work? I got one leftover from my chebby days.