Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread - lots of new parts.

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Here's what may be a dumb question......what are you doing for the low-pressure side? Regular rubber hose, or some fancy way of putting braided hose on a barb that I don't know about?
I have ptfe on the high side . Matching standard braided hose on the other side with a hose clamp at the pump
 
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Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
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so i guess my question is, is hose clamping braided not considered a hack job in this situation? some limited experience on my part on this, just havent really seen it done
 

a91what

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Braided hose will accept a clamp just fine.. they even make ends that use a clamp and look like a fitting... not my thing.. I use either spring clamps or fuel line style clamps VS the worm gear.
Slip a piece of heat shrink over it and partially shrink it so it can be folded back. to get at the clamp, looks clean as long as someone does not eyeball it too much
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Feb 18, 2001
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so i guess my question is, is hose clamping braided not considered a hack job in this situation? some limited experience on my part on this, just havent really seen it done

it’s commonly done. Matching hose and a black clamp and you’ll never see it

5DA1F4D8-BE4D-405B-A5F3-7617C0701A01.jpeg
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Feb 18, 2001
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Looks like I need to modify. I need to grab these two mounting tabs to bolt it up. I’ll likely 3d print a prototype first to make sure I have the right location. Setting up the laser cutter program and getting machine time is a PITA


E5393D03-5FE4-4CF3-8386-C1571BB5B827.jpeg


Also, installed the throttle cable. All my “thru-the-firewall” work is done. Dash can go back on now. I want to throw it on first to make sure all plugs where they need to be.

final pedal setup. I plan on remaking the brake pedal later on. The pad comes off, so I’ll design and weld something up that can accept the SN95 matching pad.
9A640BCD-43D7-4D41-AE2E-699CF7766421.jpeg


Evaporust bath for the spindkes and some other parts. I’m impressed at how well this stuff works. I want them spotless before I throw some paint on.
A1B4D664-EEF6-4528-96BC-D96561058DC7.jpeg
 

Monkeybutt2000

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Looks like I need to modify. I need to grab these two mounting tabs to bolt it up. I’ll likely 3d print a prototype first to make sure I have the right location. Setting up the laser cutter program and getting machine time is a PITA


E5393D03-5FE4-4CF3-8386-C1571BB5B827.jpeg


Also, installed the throttle cable. All my “thru-the-firewall” work is done. Dash can go back on now. I want to throw it on first to make sure all plugs where they need to be.

final pedal setup. I plan on remaking the brake pedal later on. The pad comes off, so I’ll design and weld something up that can accept the SN95 matching pad.
9A640BCD-43D7-4D41-AE2E-699CF7766421.jpeg


Evaporust bath for the spindkes and some other parts. I’m impressed at how well this stuff works. I want them spotless before I throw some paint on.
A1B4D664-EEF6-4528-96BC-D96561058DC7.jpeg
That stuff works great! And Walmart has it online for $15.36 :nice:
 

Mustang5L5

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Got my brake line that runs from the drivers side firewall union to the rear. Interesting how this setup was done in 2 pieves, but it’s a different routing to clear subframe connectors.

originally I was going to leave this line alone, until I found the worn area. Now I’m glad I’ll have all new SS lines on the entire car. Piece of mind

F69E00A4-4C29-40E1-9008-5604D853F4F2.jpeg
 

Mustang5L5

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So for those who don’t know, I have a 90-93 dash in an ‘88, which means the fuse box bo longer technically has a place to mount. The 90-93 plate doesn’t fit, so I’ll make my own.

So I tweaked my initial design. I didn’t have the car with me, so I ball-parked a rough idea out based on a picture of the two mount tabs I wish to grab.
AA70D501-26AA-4494-83E3-006CA3142C37.jpeg


it fits the fuse box well

4150B510-FB1E-4AE4-A9BE-B1588FDDD4C7.jpeg


But I estimated wrong under the dash. I made some marks and can adjust the model and print another.
E3491308-4410-4FC1-8462-E79F5A28E9C7.jpeg


once I have the prototype, I’ll laser cut it from .100 Aluminum and maybe annodize it or powdercoat.

maybe I’ll make a few. Depends on how much material I have.
 

fox racer v2

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Jun 2, 2019
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Installed the MM fittings, then realized I forgot the hydraulic sealant so out they came again. Removing them buggered up the Teflon o ring, so I need to get new ones. I was not amused.

I’ll likely have to pull the rack off because proper torque is critical. Any more and it ruins the o ring. Prob is I can’t torque it like this. Rack needs to come off. Fortunately at this stage, that’s easy

0DFB94C1-391C-4B42-BD48-026C5C50858C.jpeg


Decided to do something easy so I worked on cleaning up the spindles. Got them to this point abs decided an evaporust dip might be worthwhile.
0EA6E24E-C519-48B6-984B-466A8DC7EC72.jpeg


I should powdercoat these, but I feel like it’s a lot of time abs effort for something I’ll never see. I painted my 94-95 spindkes and it held up well.
I evaporusted a set of fox spindles (granted, was like try #4 on that bottle and was really really weak, so need to do it again) but it blackened them. Think bluing steel color. I actually like the look, but know it may change the color
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
34,007
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Massachusetts
I evaporusted a set of fox spindles (granted, was like try #4 on that bottle and was really really weak, so need to do it again) but it blackened them. Think bluing steel color. I actually like the look, but know it may change the color

These came out that sort of gray, ductile iron look.

Either way...they are currently being painted as we speak. Acetone wipe down, some self-etch, and a few coats of black. Let them dry a few days, and then they can go on the car.

Steering rack install currently being held up by new pack of Teflon O-rings. :( I need to install the fittings before putting the rack in. Was hoping to get the car as a roller in the next few weeks.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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More new parts. I ordered oem style rubber mounts and these. I’ll likely run the poly mounts. I just want to compare first
7505B628-F15B-4071-8FA5-E2958109DE0F.jpeg
52E3F375-3AD2-40F5-9D3E-8877E1B247DC.jpeg
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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One side spindle torqued on. Got the hub on too. Came out quite nice. Strut is loose because I need to remove it a few more times.
0BAD0919-8A63-4578-AD4F-FE37F8D6AB63.jpeg


also, PSA on fake bolts. Steering rack bolts. I got the black bolt on McMaster-carr. It’s 5mm too short. Found a slightly longer bolt on eBay.

both bolts are Grade 10.9 and have the same manufacturer head stamp. The black one is nice and hefty. The longer one is noticeably lighter. It feels cheap in my hand. I don’t have the means to prove it, but I would bet it’s a counterfeit bolt.

anyway, I dumped the original rack bolts in the evaporust and it came out awesome! It’s about 2” too long, but screw it I’ll just run it.
BA154ADA-43D5-4F57-8028-315D02AAEC5D.jpeg
 

a91what

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Looking really good, now that I see pictures of the MM K member installed in your car I can see the major differences between it and the UPR I chose for my application..
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
7,409
7,290
234
S.I.NY
Braided hose will accept a clamp just fine.. they even make ends that use a clamp and look like a fitting... not my thing.. I use either spring clamps or fuel line style clamps VS the worm gear.
Slip a piece of heat shrink over it and partially shrink it so it can be folded back. to get at the clamp, looks clean as long as someone does not eyeball it too much
That’s what I did. Heat shrinkEd the end of the braided line just the width of the clamp . Used it on my return from my ps pump and no issues . The pressure side I ran a fragola ptfe braided line with the crimped on ends