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If you can cut the bolt head off do you think you can thread a nut on the portion of the bolt that is sticking out under the car and then weld that on and try to just continue threading the stud out towards the underside of the car?
Tried that on the opposite side and didn’t work. I think I need to get the POR 15 off as well. Gonna get some paint stripper on it and take it off and see if that makes a difference.
If I can get the head off, it’s just 6 spot welds to take that whole plate off. Then I’ll just weld the new one in.
FYI,
If anyone wants to replace these bolts with a proper bolt, it’s a 7/16-20 and 1” seems to work ok for the rear belts. Front belts have a shoulder
If anyone wants to replace these bolts with a proper bolt, it’s a 7/16-20 and 1” seems to work ok for the rear belts. Front belts have a shoulder
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
A little late but I would probably reach out to who ever custom ground your cam and get their take on which ring and pinion would be best to use for how you want to use the car.. I say that because you have aftermarket heads etc and I know on previous cars of mine with hci combos some would really buck at low rpms without a 3.73 or more. Its all relative to the combo though but as a precaution you may want to consider asking the grinder
I think i've actually decided to put some more miles on the 3.73's before making a decision. I did put some miles on the car last summer, but not enough to make a proper assessment.
So for now, the 3.73's will stay until I can put a few hundred on and see how drivability is and such.
So for now, the 3.73's will stay until I can put a few hundred on and see how drivability is and such.
Good choice.
You could have landed up in a situation similar to when i bought a $750 clutch to replace the one i have when i hadn't driven more than like 20 miles in the year before it. After i drove it again, i found out the clutch didn't bother me at all. LMR took it back, but i ate the restocking fee.
Might want to wait to the spring to crack it open anyway. Gear oil in an attached garage (especially if you have a garage entrance door into the house) could land up a guy in the dog house.
You could have landed up in a situation similar to when i bought a $750 clutch to replace the one i have when i hadn't driven more than like 20 miles in the year before it. After i drove it again, i found out the clutch didn't bother me at all. LMR took it back, but i ate the restocking fee.
Might want to wait to the spring to crack it open anyway. Gear oil in an attached garage (especially if you have a garage entrance door into the house) could land up a guy in the dog house.
Yeah, that's the plan. garage is attached to the house so fumes make their way in.
Plan was to work on the exhaust and then do some clean-up and paint and then roll it out into the driveway and open it up and drain it. We've had a mild winter. Other than that one -13 degree day a couple weeks ago, it's been consistent 40's and 50's. Plenty warm for outside work.
Tailpipes and clamps arrive tomorrow. I'd like to get one side mocked up this weekend to see if my plan is going to work.
Plan was to work on the exhaust and then do some clean-up and paint and then roll it out into the driveway and open it up and drain it. We've had a mild winter. Other than that one -13 degree day a couple weeks ago, it's been consistent 40's and 50's. Plenty warm for outside work.
Tailpipes and clamps arrive tomorrow. I'd like to get one side mocked up this weekend to see if my plan is going to work.
Tailpipes showed up. I think this will work nicely. New flowmaster tails match the old ones, so it should fit well
Going to try out this style hanger. Going to clamp it on the muffler at the base just for support. I have a lap style clamp for the main sealing.
Unfortunately wasn’t thrilled about the clamp I got for th flow tubes. Ordered two different clamps to try but they should be here next week.
I still intend to hang this on the car and see how it fits. Helps using the flowmaster setup as a reference.
Going to try out this style hanger. Going to clamp it on the muffler at the base just for support. I have a lap style clamp for the main sealing.
Unfortunately wasn’t thrilled about the clamp I got for th flow tubes. Ordered two different clamps to try but they should be here next week.
I still intend to hang this on the car and see how it fits. Helps using the flowmaster setup as a reference.
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
It’s likely because it’s a universal muffler and not a model specific catback.
Yeah, universal mufflers means to run into issues like this. Got the pass side mocked up. Unfortunately looks like I’m a tad short.
I estimate a 4” extension peice will get me where I need. Fortunately they make those. So more parts on order, and more clamps.
Would have preferred it alll fit one shot but if this is the only tweak I need to make I’m ok with it. Tempted to weld up an extension on the flow tubes….
Going to mock the drivers side up next.
I estimate a 4” extension peice will get me where I need. Fortunately they make those. So more parts on order, and more clamps.
Would have preferred it alll fit one shot but if this is the only tweak I need to make I’m ok with it. Tempted to weld up an extension on the flow tubes….
Going to mock the drivers side up next.
Same issue with drivers side. I found a few SS 4” extensions so I’ll order those up. Stay tuned.
I also need to make sure I leave enough clearance for the driveshaft. It’s easy doing the exhaust now with no rear or driveshaft, but it also means I can’t tighten everything down until I can do final sanity check for fit.
Found the flowmasters are rusted out inside. Can hear the bits of rust flopping around internally when I rotate it. So those are not going back kn the car regardless. I’ll likely chop the tips off and save those.
Parts in the mail. Wait we must.
I also need to make sure I leave enough clearance for the driveshaft. It’s easy doing the exhaust now with no rear or driveshaft, but it also means I can’t tighten everything down until I can do final sanity check for fit.
Found the flowmasters are rusted out inside. Can hear the bits of rust flopping around internally when I rotate it. So those are not going back kn the car regardless. I’ll likely chop the tips off and save those.
Parts in the mail. Wait we must.
Do they make longer flow tubes?
My mufflers sit further back and they are similar size to yours.
The hanger on mine is welded to the muffler (obviously they aren't stainless) and the rubber exhaust hanger on mine hangs close to vertical.
I think the point i'm getting at, do you need more pipe in the back or the front?
If you could do the flow tubes that's a few less clamps.
My mufflers sit further back and they are similar size to yours.
The hanger on mine is welded to the muffler (obviously they aren't stainless) and the rubber exhaust hanger on mine hangs close to vertical.
I think the point i'm getting at, do you need more pipe in the back or the front?
If you could do the flow tubes that's a few less clamps.
The only other brand of flow tubes I see is the LMR brand. I can certainly ask them the question as to how long they are compared to the pypes brand.
Edit: looks like they are aluminized steel. Would prefer sticking with SS
I agree the mufflers need to come back so the extension peice I was going to use would likely go on the flow tubes to push those back a bit.
I was also debating just finding a SS exhaust hanger and welding it to the muffler. I have SS wire for the MIG but just trying to avoid using the welder. At least with clamps I can move and adjust a bit before synching it all down once rear and panhard bar go in.
Edit: looks like they are aluminized steel. Would prefer sticking with SS
I agree the mufflers need to come back so the extension peice I was going to use would likely go on the flow tubes to push those back a bit.
I was also debating just finding a SS exhaust hanger and welding it to the muffler. I have SS wire for the MIG but just trying to avoid using the welder. At least with clamps I can move and adjust a bit before synching it all down once rear and panhard bar go in.
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I'd say for sure, weld the hanger if you can.
You have spend so much time making things right and attractive, why stop now...
I'm definitely not loving that bolt on hanger from a visual standpoint.
I think it's going to look a little busy with all these clamps and those hangers and judging by the attention to detail you take with the car, i doubt you are going to like it.
You have spend so much time making things right and attractive, why stop now...
I'm definitely not loving that bolt on hanger from a visual standpoint.
I think it's going to look a little busy with all these clamps and those hangers and judging by the attention to detail you take with the car, i doubt you are going to like it.
When I recently did my rear, and reinstalled the exhaust, it became pretty evident that there is little to no play allowed, front to back, on those tailpipes, or the rear will make contact as the suspension travels up and down. Something to keep in mind as you position things.
Yeah, I definitely realize this. I cannot move the tailpipes front to rear at all. They are sort of fixed in one spot due to how they tuck up near the frame rails.
I have to move the mufflers back into the tailpipes, or extend.
After thinking about it a bit, I just might buy a peice of 2.5” SS exhaust tubing and weld on the extensions myself. I’ll still use the four exhaust clamps on the muffler itself, but seeing as the muffler needs to sit in the right spot, I think I might need to break out the welder.
I’ll likely weld on some hangers as well rather than use those janky hangers. It’s getting too busy under there with hangers and extensions and such.
Gonna think about this a bit, but you are right. I have the time and space to work so let’s do this right.
I have to move the mufflers back into the tailpipes, or extend.
After thinking about it a bit, I just might buy a peice of 2.5” SS exhaust tubing and weld on the extensions myself. I’ll still use the four exhaust clamps on the muffler itself, but seeing as the muffler needs to sit in the right spot, I think I might need to break out the welder.
I’ll likely weld on some hangers as well rather than use those janky hangers. It’s getting too busy under there with hangers and extensions and such.
Gonna think about this a bit, but you are right. I have the time and space to work so let’s do this right.
rednotch
Founding Member
Same issue with drivers side. I found a few SS 4” extensions so I’ll order those up. Stay tuned.
I also need to make sure I leave enough clearance for the driveshaft. It’s easy doing the exhaust now with no rear or driveshaft, but it also means I can’t tighten everything down until I can do final sanity check for fit.
Found the flowmasters are rusted out inside. Can hear the bits of rust flopping around internally when I rotate it. So those are not going back kn the car regardless. I’ll likely chop the tips off and save those.
Parts in the mail. Wait we must.
Looks good, you get the tail pipes on clearance? Noticed Holley trying to move some product lol.... https://www.holley.com/products/clearance_parts/parts/15814
I see they have Magna flow SS 4x9 knockoffs pretty cheap to around $20-30 per muffler under the flow monster brand now. I've used total flow before but not that brand, sure look like they came off the same production lines in China same as the jones mufflers lol. Probably pick up a set of these for the next 3" system I do, they don't offer them offset/offset like they do in the 2.5"
Flowmonster 14329-FM FLOWMONSTER 409SS OVAL CASE ABSORPTION MUFFLER
The Flowmonster series of absorption style mufflers deliver a moderate tone for the enthusiast looking for a deeper, more aggressive exhaust note than most OE (Original Equipment) mufflers, unlike the racey exhaust note associated with "chambered" style mufflers. Interior construction features...
www.holley.com
Flowmonster 11236-FM FLOWMONSTER 409SS OVAL CASE ABSORPTION MUFFLER
The Flowmonster series of absorption style mufflers deliver a moderate tone for the enthusiast looking for a deeper, more aggressive exhaust note than most OE (Original Equipment) mufflers, unlike the racey exhaust note associated with "chambered" style mufflers. Interior construction features...
www.holley.com
Just a heads up on the panhard bar you have in the corner. When mine went in I had to cut the tail pipes loose and make some mods to get all of it to clear.
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