I got the different tailpipes. The SS version. 815814. Couldn’t find any deals on those.
Already test fit with the previous exhaust. Fit perfectly with the flowmaster tailpipes, which is why I chose to buy another set of flowmaster pipes.
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I got the different tailpipes. The SS version. 815814. Couldn’t find any deals on those.
Already test fit with the previous exhaust. Fit perfectly with the flowmaster tailpipes, which is why I chose to buy another set of flowmaster pipes.
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HotFox
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If you check out my build thread. When we re hung new mufflers adding the tails we duplicated what was previously done and welded the hanger off the back of the muffler can. Might be a option to consider too.
If I were you once clocked I would weld your tails to the muffler, find someone that can tig. It will look much cleaner.
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If I were you once clocked I would weld your tails to the muffler, find someone that can tig. It will look much cleaner.
Progress Thread - Jewel Green street/strip 92 LX progress thread
very nice scott looking forward to another car show this summer
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Ok parts are incoming. Should have them soon enough to jump back on the exhaust.
Looking forward at the axle studs. Going to order my axles soon and will need to install axle studs. I'm pulling the rear wheels in the 0.75" with the offset brackets. I want to continue to run my polished SN95 wheels, but HATE how SN wheels look with fox offset axles. They are too sucked in. BUT, my new 18x9's require it. I want to be able to switch around.
So trying to think this through as to how i can run both.
MM's smallest bolt on spacer is 1". This would add 1/4" to where the wheels were previously. My fender lips are rolled, so it's close, but I think i might make contact with my 255's. Do i plan on running those wheels much once i get my 18's? No idea. But with these, i can buy standard lenght studs
Other option is MM's slip on 1/2" or 3/4" spacer. This would pull the wheels in 1/4" (if i used 1/2" spacer) from where they were which is fine. Downside here is i need extended studs.
I'm trying ot avoid putting my 18" wheels on and then having extended length studs and open lugs on the rear, as i like closed style lugnuts.
Maybe i should think long term. I'll likely only have the 18x9's on, so why bother with extended studs and spacers for the SN wheels? Gotta think about it i guess.
I still need two of the 18" wheels. They have not been released yet so i cant buy the remaining two. Due out any day now really.
Looking forward at the axle studs. Going to order my axles soon and will need to install axle studs. I'm pulling the rear wheels in the 0.75" with the offset brackets. I want to continue to run my polished SN95 wheels, but HATE how SN wheels look with fox offset axles. They are too sucked in. BUT, my new 18x9's require it. I want to be able to switch around.
So trying to think this through as to how i can run both.
MM's smallest bolt on spacer is 1". This would add 1/4" to where the wheels were previously. My fender lips are rolled, so it's close, but I think i might make contact with my 255's. Do i plan on running those wheels much once i get my 18's? No idea. But with these, i can buy standard lenght studs
Other option is MM's slip on 1/2" or 3/4" spacer. This would pull the wheels in 1/4" (if i used 1/2" spacer) from where they were which is fine. Downside here is i need extended studs.
I'm trying ot avoid putting my 18" wheels on and then having extended length studs and open lugs on the rear, as i like closed style lugnuts.
Maybe i should think long term. I'll likely only have the 18x9's on, so why bother with extended studs and spacers for the SN wheels? Gotta think about it i guess.
I still need two of the 18" wheels. They have not been released yet so i cant buy the remaining two. Due out any day now really.
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I would set the car for your forever wheels and forget the rest.
Not sure i know anyone other than drag racers or people who drive in the winter that swap wheels.
Why would you put your old wheels back on?
I'm assuming the new axle studs are press in, not screw in?
Not sure i know anyone other than drag racers or people who drive in the winter that swap wheels.
Why would you put your old wheels back on?
I'm assuming the new axle studs are press in, not screw in?
They are press in.
Good points. I’ll just install standard studs and call it a day. Too much overthinking.
I won’t necessarily call them forever wheeks though, but any future forged type wheel will likely use fox offset anyway.
Good points. I’ll just install standard studs and call it a day. Too much overthinking.
I won’t necessarily call them forever wheeks though, but any future forged type wheel will likely use fox offset anyway.
Nice piece of 304 tubing came in.
Now I just need to find a way to make nice cuts without resorting to buying a $50 blade for my chop saw for 3 cuts. Amazingly I do not have an adequate tool at work I can use. Might just have to buy a nice blade.
Since I’m limited on where the tailpipes need to sit, I have to locate the tailpipe first and work backwards. So I need to extend each tailpipe 4”. That’s step #1.
Now I just need to find a way to make nice cuts without resorting to buying a $50 blade for my chop saw for 3 cuts. Amazingly I do not have an adequate tool at work I can use. Might just have to buy a nice blade.
Since I’m limited on where the tailpipes need to sit, I have to locate the tailpipe first and work backwards. So I need to extend each tailpipe 4”. That’s step #1.
That's a lot of work for mufflers and tailpipes. The clearance back there can be crazy-making. Not sure what you're running, but any double-adjustable UCA like the Team-Z upper control arms can really help with clearance up there, if needed.
I was wondering about that bolt. If you can get to it from the top and bottom, can you get a buddy to get on it with a set of vice-grips from below while you torque it the same way up top just to try to break it loose? In any case, I'm pretty sure a cutting wheel and a hardened drill bit or 2 is in your future. I don't believe in a bolt that can't be drilled. Once you've chopped the top and bottom, you dont have to drill the full diameter. You just have to drill most of the way out to the threads. Start with a pilot hole, widen it, try a bolt extractor, and then if that doesn't work, keep widening until you're at the threads, as necessary. Nothing has survived that far for me, yet. Just do your best to center your pilot hole.
I was wondering about that bolt. If you can get to it from the top and bottom, can you get a buddy to get on it with a set of vice-grips from below while you torque it the same way up top just to try to break it loose? In any case, I'm pretty sure a cutting wheel and a hardened drill bit or 2 is in your future. I don't believe in a bolt that can't be drilled. Once you've chopped the top and bottom, you dont have to drill the full diameter. You just have to drill most of the way out to the threads. Start with a pilot hole, widen it, try a bolt extractor, and then if that doesn't work, keep widening until you're at the threads, as necessary. Nothing has survived that far for me, yet. Just do your best to center your pilot hole.
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I don't look at it that way. I think I enjoy the projects more than driving sometimes. Besides, an LX needs tailpipes. I can't not do them
I purchased some hardened bits. Smoked out 2 of them halfway through on the other side before I gave up. It was frustrating. I tried all my tricks on it. RIght now the bolt is soaking in a rag of paint stripper to try and remove the POR15 from the threads. I think what happened is some POR15 wicked it's way up the bolt threads and has locked it in tight. I can't think of any other reason why it's so stuck in there. I've snapped multiple T-50 bits with a 30" breaker bar, welded a nut on there and heated the piss out of it and eventually it snapped the head off.
TBH, i hope i can just snap the head off the second one. WOuld be much easier to just drill out the 4 spot welds and weld in the new plate.
I wonder how sloppy the welding was back in the day, if they got slag in there, it's over.
I learned the hard way that if a bolt hole has slag stuck in it, the bolt is not coming out period, no amount of strength, wd40 or heat is going to do it.
And if you had to use the double adjustable uppers for clearance, i'd use the steeda ones. They have a plate on top to keep the sides from spreading.
I learned the hard way that if a bolt hole has slag stuck in it, the bolt is not coming out period, no amount of strength, wd40 or heat is going to do it.
And if you had to use the double adjustable uppers for clearance, i'd use the steeda ones. They have a plate on top to keep the sides from spreading.
As soon as you install the PHB you only need one UCA and if you move to a TA then you toss the other one and go upperless.
At this point in time, i do not believe i need clearance with the arms. I think i just need 3.5" added onto each tailpipe. That will postion the mufflers where the need to go so that the tailpipes are located properly and I can weld hangers to the mufflers in the right spot.
The pass side flow tube appears like it will slip in without modification, but the driver's side one might need me to make a pie cut to give it a little kick. Not a big deal, just an extra step.
The pass side flow tube appears like it will slip in without modification, but the driver's side one might need me to make a pie cut to give it a little kick. Not a big deal, just an extra step.
Got my offset brackets in, along with the SVE anti-moans. I ordered the brackets direct from North Race Cars as it’s $10 or so cheaper than LMR.
I know I could have cut my stock cobra brackets but I like bolt on type stuff, plus I wanted to save the Ford cobra brackets because I have the crazy desire to pick up a 99-04 GT at some point, as I miss my 03 GT, and coyote swap up. But that’s a project for another day.
Just need axles and studs next. Not going to touch the axle until the exhaust is set.
I will go scuff up and paint the brackets however.
I know I could have cut my stock cobra brackets but I like bolt on type stuff, plus I wanted to save the Ford cobra brackets because I have the crazy desire to pick up a 99-04 GT at some point, as I miss my 03 GT, and coyote swap up. But that’s a project for another day.
Just need axles and studs next. Not going to touch the axle until the exhaust is set.
I will go scuff up and paint the brackets however.
They are supposed to triangulate that axle bracket to prevent noise. Hit or miss if you actually get noise. I know Ford put them on, so it will bother me not putting them on.
Can’t use the ones I have now with the offset brackets as they hit the shock mount bracket when moved inwards that 3/4”. You can cut and weld them shorter, but I want to keep the ford ones intact.
They are kinda an optional thing but I prefer to have them.
Can’t use the ones I have now with the offset brackets as they hit the shock mount bracket when moved inwards that 3/4”. You can cut and weld them shorter, but I want to keep the ford ones intact.
They are kinda an optional thing but I prefer to have them.
Hmm. Well they are supposed to be shorter. That’s the whole reason I bought them. These seem identical to the stockers.
Gonna have to look into this. I need to take that bracket off and compare. Might have to return them if they are already the same as what I have.
Gonna have to look into this. I need to take that bracket off and compare. Might have to return them if they are already the same as what I have.
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And now that I look at the OE bracket, it appears I have the space to move it about 3/4” over.
So yeah, I’ll just send these back. Oops.
So yeah, I’ll just send these back. Oops.
While good news on the cost side, I recommend waiting to return them until after you have the axles in and verify the ones you have will fit. Just to CYA.
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