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More goodies have arrived.


New kick panel trim and scuff plates. My original kick panels were a bit damaged from the original donor car I got them from 20 years ago, so decided to replace.

Honestly, you can’t tell a difference. These things are molded the same way and have the factory part numbers too. If I didn’t know better I would think they are oem panels

40F3690B-EEC7-41EF-B2CC-31C85BB792BC.webp
936612ED-2F4A-4A12-906B-7BF31AF4D2FA.webp
D0500162-B13C-4BF2-B771-984A0AE4262E.webp
 
I guess SEM (and others) have made it so easy to paint these pieces, DC cut their costs and make it one color only. The smoke can easily go to black, blue, red, whatever you need!
 
Is

Is there a benefit to running the 92-93 unit compared to the earlier ones?

It's a more secure latch than the earlier ones.

The early ones have two jaws that close around the striker with the bushing. There's a little bit of wiggle from the jaws so you get a tiny bit of hatch movement.

The newer ones uses single jaw that kinda latches around the new style striker which lacks the bushing. It's a much more secure connection with no movement. I always noticed that my buddies and their 92-93 cars had much more rigid hatches. The older cars seem to have more play.


This is something that's more of a "nice to have" vs any sort of critical mod. If you happen to stumble across a 93 in a junkyard, or part out one, i would keep the latch and install it. But only crazy mofo's like myself go out of the way to upgrade a latch :)


But that's what I do. The factory chose to upgrade it, so I want the best of what the factory had to offer.
 
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It's a more secure latch than the earlier ones.

The early ones have two jaws that close around the striker with the bushing. There's a little bit of wiggle from the jaws so you get a tiny bit of hatch movement.

The newer ones uses single jaw that kinda latches around the new style striker which lacks the bushing. It's a much more secure connection with no movement. I always noticed that my buddies and their 92-93 cars had much more rigid hatches. The older cars seem to have more play.


This is something that's more of a "nice to have" vs any sort of critical mod. If you happen to stumble across a 93 in a junkyard, or part out one, i would keep the latch and install it. But only crazy mofo's like myself go out of the way to upgrade a latch :)


But that's what I do. The factory chose to upgrade it, so I want the best of what the factory had to offer.
The hatch I just purchased to replace my rusted one has the 92-93 latch. There is a wire harness that is still attached to the hatch. Will this be a plug and play type of deal? I need to remove the LX spoiler off it and have my GT spoiler installed. Not sure if that would affect the wiring in any way. I still have the button in my glove box that unlocks the latch. Would like to keep that if possible.

V2jRLAN.webp
 
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The hatch I just purchased to replace my rusted one has the 92-93 latch. There is a wire harness that is still attached to the hatch. Will this be a plug and play type of deal? I need to remove the LX spoiler off it and have my GT spoiler installed. Not sure if that would affect the wiring in any way. I still have the button in my glove box that unlocks the latch. Would like to keep that if possible.


Unknown. I actually have the wiring harness in the mail, so I will find out soon.

The hatch popper feature is a simple plug change. You can snip the plug end off the 93 harness and splice it onto your harness and that's it. Hatch will still pop open. You'll need to pull out the 93 harness and fish your original harness in.

The interior light switch is a different story. You'll see what i mean when you look at your car, but right next to the striker in the hatch is the interior light switch on the 1987-1991 cars. When the hatch closes a little metal pad pushes the plunger down and your interior light stays off. On the 92-93 setup, this plunger is gone. The latch itself has a second plug that does this now. That means the 92-93 harness has two more wires than the 87-91 harness since the interior switch is now in the hatch on the latch itself.

Simple setup is to just remove the plunger and unplug it. Leaving the wires disconnected keeps the light off. The interior light won't come on when you open the hatch, but how many of us are loading the hatch up at night?

I'd like to keep it functional, so i'm going to play around with the harnesses a bit and see if i can make it work. I'd need to compare the 87-91 harnesses and 92-93 harnesses to really tell where the difference is and make it work.


BTW. You'll need to buy the 91-92 striker for that latch



You could also just swap in your existing wiring and older latch, and throw that setup on ebay for $150+
 
Unknown. I actually have the wiring harness in the mail, so I will find out soon.

The hatch popper feature is a simple plug change. You can snip the plug end off the 93 harness and splice it onto your harness and that's it. Hatch will still pop open. You'll need to pull out the 93 harness and fish your original harness in.

The interior light switch is a different story. You'll see what i mean when you look at your car, but right next to the striker in the hatch is the interior light switch on the 1987-1991 cars. When the hatch closes a little metal pad pushes the plunger down and your interior light stays off. On the 92-93 setup, this plunger is gone. The latch itself has a second plug that does this now. That means the 92-93 harness has two more wires than the 87-91 harness since the interior switch is now in the hatch on the latch itself.

Simple setup is to just remove the plunger and unplug it. Leaving the wires disconnected keeps the light off. The interior light won't come on when you open the hatch, but how many of us are loading the hatch up at night?

I'd like to keep it functional, so i'm going to play around with the harnesses a bit and see if i can make it work. I'd need to compare the 87-91 harnesses and 92-93 harnesses to really tell where the difference is and make it work.


BTW. You'll need to buy the 91-92 striker for that latch



You could also just swap in your existing wiring and older latch, and throw that setup on ebay for $150+
Let me know what you find out. I don't really care if the light works, I'm mainly concerned about the 3rd brake light and hatch popper. But if you can figure out how to make it all work like factory that would be great. I just want to make the swap as easy as possible using either my original harness or the 92-93 harness.
 
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Let me know what you find out. I don't really care if the light works, I'm mainly concerned about the 3rd brake light and hatch popper. But if you can figure out how to make it all work like factory that would be great. I just want to make the swap as easy as possible using either my original harness or the 92-93 harness.

Easiest is to just use your original hatch wiring and original latch and call it a day.

The only thing to pay attention to is the third brake light. The wiring harness has two spots for the third brake light to hook up. The LX cars use a hole in the center of the hatch and connect to a plug near the lincense plate lights. The GT cars use a hole near the side of the hatch to feed the 3rd brake light and connect to the harness at the corner. The harness has both provisions, so you’ll likely need to use the harnesses from your GT hatch completely.

If you want to use this latch the easiest way is to just snip off the connector and splice it into your original harness and use that in the hatch. The interior light won’t work, but it’s simple.

Getting ithe interior light to work is something I’m working on.


I just installed the latch in my car. I did not complete the wiring for it, but I can now open and shut the hatch with the key. Don’t expect a night and day difference. It’s a bit more solid, but it’s not something that will wow anybody. So if you are just looking for the easiest possible solution, use your original wiring and latch and toss the wiring and 92-93 latch up on eBay.
 
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Yeah.

The door and hatch switches are all wired in parallel. When any one of the three open, it closes the contacts in the switch and the light comes on.

So disconnecting the hatch switch won’t affect the doors. They will still work and the hatch light still comes on with the door open.

Disconnecting the hatch switch just means no hatch/dome light when you open the hatch.


No biggie roght, but I prefer things to work the proper way
 
The quarter glass has been something i've been concerned about for 15 years.
Then fox resto sent me a preorder for getting my refurbed, but i tired kicked it (maybe a good thing because it was like a grand).
When i was ready, their site showed no signs of doing them anymore.

I always wondering if decals would do the job, i guess the answer is yes.
 
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