Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

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Well, now I’m really curious….
Years back I mocked up and bench tested a variable speed fan controller, using an arduino, and ECT signal.
Worked perfect on the bench, but car died before I could put it on the road…

So, what signal are you sending to it? Using arduino?
You probably have this all documented….

Edit:
Just found the thread you did, good stuff!
I may play with using an arduino to supply the pwm. This could be a feature rich, and easy setup, for cheap, lol.
Thanks for the info!

I started building an Arduino setup for it. Was going to install a separate ECT sensor at the rear of the intake and compensate for it running slightly cooler there in the programming.

About 50% done but stopped to focus on getting the car back in one piece. Was using this thread as a guide

 
Got the new grill emblem today

Looks to be 89+ by the part number . Package is 2006 dated.
8C9D762E-28A0-4F07-889E-E4D0D67EC86F.jpeg




Now, I had seen reference that the “correct” color for the fox body was the lighter shade of blue, but I didn’t expect the difference to be so dramatic. My original emblem has an E4 part number.

I went and checked my hatch emblem and it’s the darker variety. I changed that in 2000 when I painted the car, so no idea if the original hatch emblem is supposed to be light blue

BC9939DB-A6DF-4B5C-B3E4-9CF0CA8FE451.jpeg


I wanted an original emblem vs the repro because the only way to install is to remove the bumper. I didn’t want a repop to haze over or fade or anything…granted this 30+ year old original did.
 
Dunno why I never noticed this but it got me going down the rabbit hole of the History of Fords logo. Long story short, Ford changed the color in 2003. All 2002 older cars originally had the brighter blue. All cars and replacement emblems after 2003 got the darker blue.

Interesting history, sorry for the detour.


Here they both are next to my ‘14. Ok. Enoigh on this

C0613699-A8D8-487D-83A7-902AE0CAC6C6.webp
 
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next up was the hood bumpers. The 1988-older used this odd spring clip design that was a pita to get apart.

66A11F73-9141-4BE3-A2FF-058F49A227EB.webp



Finally get them apart. They will not go back together again like they were without tooling, so the solution is to use a locknut.
0AAE00C3-8156-4C12-B7D3-FD153925E347.webp

81F63B54-5F42-46CA-8A20-26E926551F1B.webp



Eh…..I dunno if I like how that looks.
 
Dunno why I never noticed this but it got me going down the rabbit hole of the History of Fords logo. Long story short, Ford changed the color in 2003. All 2002 older cars originally had the brighter blue. All cars and replacement emblems after 2003 got the darker blue.

Interesting history, sorry for the detour.


Here they both are next to my ‘14. Ok. Enoigh on this

C0613699-A8D8-487D-83A7-902AE0CAC6C6.jpeg
I had to look closely because in the garage mine looked dark, 1989, but I notice in the natural light it's brighter.
 
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Spent the day adjusting stuff. No pics.

Adjusting the hood, fenders, and messing with the hood struts. Also was attempting to set the alignment.

Total PItA. A good 2 hours spent and not sure I made progress. Not happy with a couple gaps. Guess I’ll keep playing with it. How the funk does Ford do this on a mass production scale? I’ve probably got 4-5 hours into this so far?!?

Setting the camber causes the C/C plates to contact the MrT hood struts barely. Looks like I have no choice but to dial in 1-1.5 degrees of camber. Not like it matters considering the tires will age out before tire wear is ever an issue, but I hate being limited on my adjustments for reasons like this. I feel like the hood support brace for the MrT setup could be redesigned slightly to the outside and would clear these perfectly. Oh well.

Ordered some stuff from LMR. I need the hood bumpers so I can continue adjusting.

Also, need to adjust my hatch and going to see if I can pick up. 92/93 hatch lock/striker. I always felt the later hatches closed more securely/rigid than the 91-earlier latches.
 
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