Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - misc stuff

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Those comparison shots make me want to bid on it. I have owned my car since 98 and have never changed the core. No idea if it was done previously.
PM me off you do. Depending on what it goes to I may bid on it, but only to stick it on a shelf. If you wanted it, I’ll stand down
 
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FortySix&2

Member
Oct 24, 2001
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Madison Wi
If you don't smell anti-freeze when the heater/defrost is on, I personally wouldn't mess with it unless I had some other reason to take it all apart.
I didn't mean to pre-emptively change it. More as a backup.

Will let you know. Can't decide if $150 is to much for a backup part.
 

nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
5 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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Nope. Brass 3-core from the late 90s when you could still get them. It’s in great shape, and if there was any damage I would have it repaired.

keeps the car so cool I don’t need the efan most of the time.
My copper/brass rad. Started leaking and I couldn't get a new one so I went alum. The old one cooled better for sure. I still have the old one and found a rad. Shop that can repair, and rod it out for $125.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,335
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Massachusetts
My copper/brass rad. Started leaking and I couldn't get a new one so I went alum. The old one cooled better for sure. I still have the old one and found a rad. Shop that can repair, and rod it out for $125.
I'm actually looking for a local shop to repair my old heater core. It didn't leak,. but you can see the corrosion. I don't feel it's a part that's worth tossing, as I think it can be salvaged.

After seeing th aftermarket aluminum heater core, I feel like a repair is a worthy investment. I am going to desolder the inlet tubes, and then resolder them on with much more solder later. The factory doesn't use a hell of a lot.


Will let you know. Can't decide if $150 is to much for a backup part.
I agree, but my thought it this part might be a bit tricky to find down the road. Originally they sold for $100-125 before being discontinued. So the auction is priced right around that.

You folks don't even want to know what i paid for mine. It could fail in a month too for all I know. No garantee that it will last the 20+ years that the last replacement did (my original heater core failed in 1998 and was replaced with a motorcraft unit)
 
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HotFox

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Jan 5, 2009
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Reminds of cleaning my 1966 tractor radiator vs buying a new aluminum one. Radiator shop tested it, tested fine. Problem is it is full of calcium build up. Apparently the EPA remove all the good chemicals from the Radiator shops in the late 80's. So I was pretty disappointed when I picked up my radiator. I am in the process of cleaning it with muriatic acid. Basically they say the aluminum will cool better but it is really fragile and will not last like the original.
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
15 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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I didn't weigh my aluminum junk one or the Motorcraft but here's my comparison. Imagine having an ink pen in one hand and a railroad spike in the other. That's how much difference there is in the amount of material there.
 

bird_dog0347

still married haven't seen testicles in years
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So I'm a 3d printing dummy... but why not use that one? Doesn't your car live in the garage anyway? Shouldn't we expect that one to last 10ish years in that scenario no matter what? By then, who knows what materials could be substituted.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Feb 18, 2001
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So I'm a 3d printing dummy... but why not use that one? Doesn't your car live in the garage anyway? Shouldn't we expect that one to last 10ish years in that scenario no matter what? By then, who knows what materials could be substituted.
That material is great for prototyping, but it's flimsy in hand, and gets soft in heat. I strung up the net with a previous rev just to mock it up and left it overnight, and when i came back to it the next day, it was bowed badly. It just won't hold up. I still drive my car in the summer heat, so interior can get up to 100-110 when I park it in the driveway for a bit of time. It is an all black car and interior after all

I don't have a printer that can printer the better materials, and it would be a PITA to change the one i have to set it up to run it, buy material, spend the time setting it up, and then printing off a few to get it just right. Easier to pay someone to print it for me. I've messed with 3D printers enough that it's not something i would get any sort of enjoyment out of doing, therefore i'll just pay.
 
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bird_dog0347

still married haven't seen testicles in years
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Gotcha, makes sense... I didn't know about the low "melting mushy" point of that material but yeah I'd think you'd want something that is perfectly good till 150ish.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,335
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Massachusetts
So I wandered into the garage around 7:30pm with beer in hand. I wanted to pull the 90s era Viper alarm out. It had a remote start on it (back when car was AOD) and I was never really sure I disabled it properly. It was bulky and took up a lot of space under the dash and in the lock panel. Besides, I know my way around a fox wiring system, and can disable a car when I want to.

so out it came
98AEE853-9390-4FE7-A508-84E75D0DD9D3.jpeg


dude who installed it did a good job splicing into the oem harness, but I wanted to do a good job unsplicing it. I also wanted to reloom some of it, as the sticky black oem tape was falling apart. I also needed to empty up the engine bay.

Long story short....

1CFCADB0-8226-402D-8114-13A88E97632F.jpeg
38976E60-E3FF-4A62-B61B-BAFA4DD4E5C0.jpeg


I also pulled the ECU harness back into the cabin. I taped off an masked My work area. Ready to start filling/sanding/painting.
A406984D-1CB7-463F-BA0E-D2C395745950.jpeg

110105E3-E8FF-44FB-9448-95CCE65DA4F7.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
1,617
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Long Island, NY
So I wandered into the garage around 7:30pm with beer in hand. I wanted to pull the 90s era Viper alarm out. It had a remote start on it (back when car was AOD) and I was never really sure I disabled it properly. It was bulky and took up a lot of stuff under the dash. Besides, I know my way around a fox wiring system, and can disable a car when I want to.

so out it came
98AEE853-9390-4FE7-A508-84E75D0DD9D3.jpeg


dude who installed it did a good job splicing into the oem harness, but I wanted to do a good job unsplicing it. I also wanted to reloom some of it, as the sticky black oem tape was falling apart. I also needed to empty up the engine bay.

Long story short....

1CFCADB0-8226-402D-8114-13A88E97632F.jpeg
38976E60-E3FF-4A62-B61B-BAFA4DD4E5C0.jpeg


I also pulled the ECU harness back into the cabin. I taped off an masked My work area. Ready to start filling/sanding/painting.
A406984D-1CB7-463F-BA0E-D2C395745950.jpeg

110105E3-E8FF-44FB-9448-95CCE65DA4F7.jpeg
That beer in hand will always get you! For me it seems to make the internet shopping easier!
 
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