The way auto rates are you could buy a new off lot gt for the same monthly payment, but that's a discussion for another thread.I mean look at that front end. There is a thread on FEP where they're discussing whether or not the new car has lost some of things that make it a Mustang.
Not from what I see.
It's almost worth having to wonder why you're paying over 700.00 a month.
Almost.
My '12 is only like $320/month (I did buy it a year old with 12k miles though). Other than the mt82's pos shifter it's very worth it. The taxes on it though......ouch.I mean look at that front end. There is a thread on FEP where they're discussing whether or not the new car has lost some of things that make it a Mustang.
Not from what I see.
It's almost worth having to wonder why you're paying over 700.00 a month.
Almost.
You know, smoothing the upper firewall was so easy that it might have taken more work to put in the new panel.
Why did you leave the holes for the brake line brackets? Normally people weld them and push the brake lines down beneath the body seam which is where you're going to route your engine harness. The brake lines will help keep the harness tucked under the seam. Are you going a different route?You know, smoothing the upper firewall was so easy that it might have taken more work to put in the new panel.
Still can't believe how straight it came out. It was wavy as all get out. I think the heat from welding actually helped to straighten it! Too bad I didn't have that same problem with the driver's front panel!
Truthfully, just not enough thought given to it, it's not too late for me to do what you did though. It makes sense.Are you not doing it like this? This is how I did mine.
Also to make the harness fit a little better I removed the old wire loom, removed some wires I no longer needed, then re-wrapped it in quality electrical tape. You can also get a little more length to place your Baro sensor into the trans tunnel or lower down beneath the seam so it's out of sight too. Wait, the 86 has MAF, right?Truthfully, just not enough though given to it, it's not too late for me to do what you did though. It makes sense.
I'll be carbureted.Also to make the harness fit a little better I removed the old wire loom, removed some wires I no longer needed, then re-wrapped it in quality electrical tape. You can also get a little more length to place your Baro sensor into the trans tunnel or lower down beneath the seam so it's out of sight too. Wait, the 86 has MAF, right?
I've had a couple days to think about the brake lines and their location. I've an idea I'm going to do, they'll stay in the original location. You'll see what I do in about three weeks, maybe four depending on how long I spend on the mini-tub.Why did you leave the holes for the brake line brackets? Normally people weld them and push the brake lines down beneath the body seam which is where you're going to route your engine harness. The brake lines will help keep the harness tucked under the seam. Are you going a different route?
I figured I would try to throw a little entertainment yours and mike's way there Noobz.I have only this in response to your query:
It's a good thing that you know how to work on cars.
You know, that welder would probably take car of an engine bay smoothing, the new panel are so thin all you want to do is to tack weld it completely around the perimeter of the new panel. It's not welding on SFC's or anything like that. I had to turn my welder way down low so I wouldn't blow holes in it with the tack welding.Great job man...I don't have the skill for all that. Don't think my Harbor Freight flux core mig has enough skill either.
I really like how its coming along. [emoji2]
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