Build Thread My 1986 T-top Build - Lasting Memories

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I mean look at that front end. There is a thread on FEP where they're discussing whether or not the new car has lost some of things that make it a Mustang.

Not from what I see.

It's almost worth having to wonder why you're paying over 700.00 a month.

Almost.
 
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I mean look at that front end. There is a thread on FEP where they're discussing whether or not the new car has lost some of things that make it a Mustang.

Not from what I see.

It's almost worth having to wonder why you're paying over 700.00 a month.

Almost.
The way auto rates are you could buy a new off lot gt for the same monthly payment, but that's a discussion for another thread.
 
I mean look at that front end. There is a thread on FEP where they're discussing whether or not the new car has lost some of things that make it a Mustang.

Not from what I see.

It's almost worth having to wonder why you're paying over 700.00 a month.

Almost.
My '12 is only like $320/month (I did buy it a year old with 12k miles though). Other than the mt82's pos shifter it's very worth it. The taxes on it though......ouch.
 
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You know, smoothing the upper firewall was so easy that it might have taken more work to put in the new panel.
Still can't believe how straight it came out. It was wavy as all get out. I think the heat from welding actually helped to straighten it! Too bad I didn't have that same problem with the driver's front panel!:dammit:
Why did you leave the holes for the brake line brackets? Normally people weld them and push the brake lines down beneath the body seam which is where you're going to route your engine harness. The brake lines will help keep the harness tucked under the seam. Are you going a different route?
 
Truthfully, just not enough though given to it, it's not too late for me to do what you did though. It makes sense.
Also to make the harness fit a little better I removed the old wire loom, removed some wires I no longer needed, then re-wrapped it in quality electrical tape. You can also get a little more length to place your Baro sensor into the trans tunnel or lower down beneath the seam so it's out of sight too. Wait, the 86 has MAF, right?
 
Also to make the harness fit a little better I removed the old wire loom, removed some wires I no longer needed, then re-wrapped it in quality electrical tape. You can also get a little more length to place your Baro sensor into the trans tunnel or lower down beneath the seam so it's out of sight too. Wait, the 86 has MAF, right?
I'll be carbureted.
Lots of wiring leaving the car.
 
Jeez, lots of pain with this virus. Today I will try eating my first solid food since Saturday morning.
I didn't feel bad until after my wife and I went to see that cloverfield movie Saturday afternoon, so I blame this on John Goodman. Good but creepy movie, btw...
I felt good enough to put glaze on the firewall, I'm going to go back out to the garage and try blocking it out as soon as the ibuprofen kicks in a bit.
It's already 5:30 here, not much time to get stuff done. I'll post a picture of whatever I get done.
Work today! That's actually good though, I love painting.
 
Why did you leave the holes for the brake line brackets? Normally people weld them and push the brake lines down beneath the body seam which is where you're going to route your engine harness. The brake lines will help keep the harness tucked under the seam. Are you going a different route?
I've had a couple days to think about the brake lines and their location. I've an idea I'm going to do, they'll stay in the original location. You'll see what I do in about three weeks, maybe four depending on how long I spend on the mini-tub.
I'm doing the plumbing as soon as I finish that.
 
Oh Gawd.....I knew this day would come......I just can't believe it's here!.....this is real, isn't it? I finished with the bondo work on the engine bay!:rlaugh::jester::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::jester::rlaugh:
Here's before and after pics. I'll post a picture after I primer it, hopefully tomorrow evening. I would do it tonight, but I left my masking machine at work and I DON'T have any relatives with butt loads of wrapping paper! @Boosted92LX
Notice how my emoji's balance out so well up there:lol:. Ok, pics:
Before panels and bondo, I hate those ten thousand holes!:
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After panels and bondo and ALL that work, maybe those little freakin' holes would've been ok:
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Yes, I'm glad I did it. Few things I would've avoided or done differently in the process though. I do like the Scott Rod Fab panels too.
I used the grey 3M fine pads in the next picture for the edge sanding and getting into crevices. They are roughly 180-240 grit, super for primer adhesion. The red scotchbrites photo bombed the sanding foam pads, didn't use them at all... they're jealous and I don't think they are really good enough for proper adhesion of primer.
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Why is this picture upside down @madmike1157 , @Noobz347 ?:doh: LOL!
 

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I have only this in response to your query: :chin

It's a good thing that you know how to work on cars. :D
I figured I would try to throw a little entertainment yours and mike's way there Noobz.
I'm soooo close to making that EB the same pretty red as the doors now!
 
Great job man...I don't have the skill for all that. Don't think my Harbor Freight flux core mig has enough skill either.

I really like how its coming along. [emoji2]
 
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Great job man...I don't have the skill for all that. Don't think my Harbor Freight flux core mig has enough skill either.

I really like how its coming along. [emoji2]
You know, that welder would probably take car of an engine bay smoothing, the new panel are so thin all you want to do is to tack weld it completely around the perimeter of the new panel. It's not welding on SFC's or anything like that. I had to turn my welder way down low so I wouldn't blow holes in it with the tack welding.
 
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