Fox My 3g Install Pics

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Thought I'd share my "In the nick of time" 3G install pics.
I never really heard about the potential "plug fire hazard" until this past year.
Was out of the fox seen for a while and my car had to sit for financial reasons.
However, I just always thought the upgrade was for the ones who were
boosting the low alternator amps, load etc, .............WRONG!!!!

So I was able to snag a good used PA performance 3G and I did the swap.
Got a few good pics of the plugs before and after.
Hope this encourages anyone who hasn't done the upgrade "Go check your plug!!"
Pictures speak a 1000 words so here are the ones I took.

Notice how melted the power plug was on the "2 black/orange tracer with white/black tracer" plug.
It was a ......Time Bomb!!!!!

Thnx to @jrichker for helping me understand the wiring install

*recommend using a "split uneven washer and/or red lock tight" on the positive stud on the alternator. Have read stories of that nut backing off after heated up and causing the power wire to come loose and spark things up!!!

**If anyone is thinking of cutting the yellow wire on the original "D" plug and looping it around to the positive stud on the back of the alternator(like the PA plug you can buy)
There is no need for that, you're actually hurting the accuracy of the computer from measuring the voltage drop across the 4awg power wire near the starter solenoid. Just so you know.
So leave the original "D" plug alone, NO CHANGES to that plug at all!!!

***Side note had a BRAND NEW MSD distributor in and when I did the swap, the 3G made it completely freak out and I started to get a skipping in my RPM's around 2500-3500. Did it more with the lights and AC on. But still did it under normal load or neutral rev up. Swapped out the distributor with a stock one and EVERYTHING cleared up



(Noobz: please put this in the Fox Tech side, it turned into more than just showing my "In the nick of time save!!)



this is the 2G alternator set up.

2G removed and I used the side of a drill bit to to shave the bracket edge,
didn't have a dremel and this was going to get done right NOW!!!!

Time Bomb power plug melting away!!!

I bought a spare "original plug" for (whatever reason) and put it in my trunk and I chose to just cut the stator wire completely. No reason I would EVER use that plug again anyways. So I super crimped it and triple checked that connection. Then I used "GOOD sticky" electrical tape on the crimp with starting completely off the crimp and on the wire and lapping them over on both sides so pressure would always be going inward so it would not move. -----> <----- Then just ran an overlapped piece to secure both together.

Taped up the "STILL LIVE power plug nice and good"

Added the female stator connector.

Connections installed. You can barely see the 4awg power wire I ran to the positive side of the starter solenoid with a 150amp mega fuse close to the starter solenoid side and not close to the alternator.

Connections installed.

Checked the line up of pulleys.

This Pa 3G alternator was already tapped for a bolt.

 

[hoopty5.0]

You should detail the pics and make a resource like Noobz has been getting at. Good catch!

 

[mikestang63]

Couple of things.

You didn't need to cut the stator wire, you could have jut tapped into it. I would recommend you solder that connection rather than relying on a crimp connector as they have a tendency to work loose. You also should swap over the smaller 2G pulley to the new 3G alternator if you didn't do so. How did you wire up the power supply and ground for the 3G? I assume you used a 4 gauge wire for both with a 125 inline mega fuse for the power feed that goes to the battery side of the solenoid, and the 4 gauge ground from the block or A/C bracket to the ground post behind the battery.

 

[madspeed]

not shown, but I hope you used a mega fuse as Mike stated

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

I edited the pics a little better.
Yes it would only let me post 10 pics but I used 1 "4 awg power wire w/ a 150amp mega fuse" because I couldn't find a 125amp at the time so I bought that one. It does run to the starter solenoid battery side and the fuse is close to the starter solenoid and not closer to the alternator. I also installed 2 "4awg grounds" one to the backside of intake to firewall and the other from the "neg battery pigtale cable at fender" to the block where the neg battery connects to the block
I actually traded my mechanic that 3G one for another one from a '95 mustang he had that was new and had a warranty. It had the smaller pulley so it worked out great for me. Did notice the lights would dim a little with that larger PA pulley. I also gave him my new 2g alternator that had a warranty when we swapped the distributor.

 

[flyinhigh90]

What yr mustang did u get the alternator from ?

 

[stangboy]

Ok, the issue with the distributor, was the problem the MSD module on the distributor or the whole thing? I hope it was just the module because I don't have my stock distributor anymore. I let that go with the complete stock motor out of my car.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Ok, the issue with the distributor, was the problem the MSD module on the distributor or the whole thing? I hope it was just the module because I don't have my stock distributor anymore. I let that go with the complete stock motor out of my car.

well after the MSD company meltdown, bankruptcy filing and the abundance of complaints with workmanship, i wasn't chancing anything so i just kept the stocker he had. It had a perfect gear on it, just used it to test cars with. Pulled the msd completely cause it was skipping at 3000rpm, didn't do it with the 2g, only after the 3g install. which was crazy, but anyhow. Don't know what it was with it. The pics have the PA alternator but the one i got from my mechanic was a '95 Ultra, from Orielly's, already had rhe right pulley too!!!

 

[flyinhigh90]

Alright so off a 95 gt would work ?

 

[mikestang63]

Alright so off a 95 gt would work ?

Yes. Any 3G from 94-95 base or GT mustang or 93-99 3.0 V6 Taurus will work.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

From what I've hear the '95 are supposed to already have a tapped hole but mine didn't, small detail no issue though. It did have the right pulley so that was a major plus for me. Two things to consider on your power wire, 1. a uneven lock washer so the nut won't back off, heard stories after being heated the nut backed off and created sparks in the engine bay. 2. dab of lock tight behind the nut to help as extra 2nd insurance from that happening etc