My motor takes its last breath....

Where do you live? I need a paint job. I'll buy the paint and clear. If you can get it from work I'll just buy it from you I guess. I'm going with black. I live in south jersey. I can throw $250 or a little more your way if your close enough to do it. + cost of supplies of course. PM me if that is an option.

dont put any money in the stock heads look for some regular gt-40's not p's and put them on. good luck phil

I have a set of GT-40P's with Crane rockers I just pulled off a customers car. I know he wants to sell them if your interested...

Tell the guy if the motor runs when you put it in he can keep the money. If not tell him that he was no help and no $$ for him. And about the heads. Don't get your stockers done imo, you can get aftermarket ones for that much. Not AFR, but at least something. Tell ya what, I'll redo your stockers for ya AND port them AND get the expensive head gaskets if you do my paint job! lol, but seriously

when it comes to cheap, you cant beat the pick n pull, these motors are generally so strong you can get a used one with some miles and it will run forever, try and get one off an aod car cause they aren't as beet on usually, you should be able to get a longblock for WAY under 500$ thats in real good shape, my friend just got a super low mileage stang longlblock for 300$ that runs sick and has taken 100 shot of nitrous many times by now! occasionally you can get a little warranty on them too if your nice and ask for it, if you need a step by step basic guide to porting ford heads, email me at extreme282@excite.com and i'll email you the fordmuscle.com one, (sorry fordmuscle )

good luck with it

$$$300. Good find. I guess it eats at me a little that this guy works at a machine shop, and dropped in a fresh engine, not bothering to tear apart the old one first. You would think an experienced specialist would know to condemn the old motor first. Also why would he drop in the old engine and pull the fresh rebuild, instead of just giving the engine he just pulled a fresh once over and keeping the new rebuild installed?. Just doesn't make since to me to pull a fresh motor when working at a machine shop you could freshen up the old one for cheap and save time on the swap. Swapping the engine twice in one sitting sure would frustrate the hell out of me. If it looks good, great find. I am known to be very picky and cautious, so maybe it's just paranoia speaking. Either way take someone with you that knows something about motors, maybe check a few cylinders for taper. Just my 2 cents.

Paul Perreca said:

Should I have the bare block bored .030 or .3 or whatever lol The guy i'm gona buy the motor from works at a machine shop so... thanks

Paul Perreca

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Just a quick lesson on cylinder taper. Standard bore on a 302 C.I. (5.0L) engine is 4.0000 inches. This means the "hole" the pistons stroke up and down in is 4.000 at ANY point in the cylinder from one side to the other. They have tools that check the size in .0001 increments. When you put the tool in the cylinder you can check to see if the bore has worn from 4.0000 to say 4.019 or 4.010. If the cylinders have worn this much it can cause "blow-by" a condition that decreases compression in the cylinders, dramitically decreases in HP readings, and can burn oil. Egg-shelling is when the sides of the cylinder that the piston pushes against harder has more taper than the rest of the cylinder which can have the same effect as an oversized cylinder. A quick and dirty check can be done "altough NOT very accurate and will only tell you if the engine has 20 miles or not" is to check for a ridge at the top of the cylinder. If when you put the finger down the top of the cylinder it should be smooth with no lip period. If the cylinder drops .007 or so and is not completely smooth then this engine has lots more miles then hes telling you, and you need to walk away. Keep in mind this check will NOT tell you if he bored the engine .020 or so and only went with oversized rings and stock pistons, or if you took some other cheap rebuild method he wasn't happy with, this check will only tell you if the block has been honed which is a good starting point to keep inspecting or walk away.

Pretty sure the only things that need to be changed are the pistons and matching rings. Hopefully you get you car back on the road soon. Good luck

Some new bearings and gaskets might be nice.

that sucks. sorry to hear about your car. check out ebay, sometimes you can get lucky and come across something cheap.

my$100project said:

If your anywhere near the Quad City area I might be willing to trade off hours, let me know.

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Where at in the QC, what kind of car do you have

I live in the N.W. side of Davenport. I actually have several cars. The Mustang I own is an 89 GT I just bought 2-3 months ago. Oil pan had rusted through, so the guy (suit and tie type) bought a new SPI pan and a one peice pan gasket, tore the engine apart and didn't know how to put it back together. The nic alone should tell you the condition of the vehicle. (The $100 included the new pan and pan gasket )I haven't updated the site since I completed the rebuild, and it's a sight for sore eyes (at best). If you want to see pics here's a link.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829765

my$100project said:

I live in the N.W. side of Davenport. I actually have several cars. The Mustang I own is an 89 GT I just bought 2-3 months ago. Oil pan had rusted through, so the guy (suit and tie type) bought a new SPI pan and a one peice pan gasket, tore the engine apart and didn't know how to put it back together. The nic alone should tell you the condition of the vehicle. (The $100 included the new pan and pan gasket )I haven't updated the site since I completed the rebuild, and it's a sight for sore eyes (at best). If you want to see pics here's a link.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829765

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you going to the car show next saturday at North Park (the 16th, 6pm)
I'll be there with my "money-pit"

....do you know any good places that can mount/balance tires for cheap

Sorry for getting off topic people

Next Saturday, We'll see if the wife has to work. If so I'll have the kid. If not we'll all go. Hmmm, I usually do all that stuff myself. I have free access to the equipment for my personal vehicles. Just have to pay for the weights. I'll see what I can do, I'm not guaranting you anything as it's a "personal vehicle's only situation", they may say ok if you throw them $5-$10 plus weights. If you can wait till Monday I'll ask and I'll let you know one way or another. I would think you could possibly call river city tire and tires plus both on Brady St. see what they charge and Firestone at North Park will probably beat their price.

hey Paul any update? Did you buy the engine? If so, how's it look?

Daggar said:

How about something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7983976524&category=33615

Swap all your stuff over to the new shortblock and call it a day.

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swap 113k mile heads onto a new shortblock.....

I may be able to get you in and out no problem, no charge. You would have to help though.--I could show you how to pull the old tires, clean rims, reinsall new tires etc, while I balanced, And you have have to bring in the rims --leave the car- So I could say they where mine. Maybe we could work out a deal with the rear-end kit, for cheap. What does it include? Time is of the essence--I'm buying gears either tomorrow or Wednesday. I was hoping to get some runs in completely stock with rebuild to compare to gear/exhaust mod times, but I just can't wait 3 weeks, and I'm guessing with stock gears/exhaust I'll be lucky to run 15's anyways. Anyways let me know.