My motor takes its last breath....

#21
Where do you live? I need a paint job. I'll buy the paint and clear. If you can get it from work I'll just buy it from you I guess. I'm going with black. I live in south jersey. I can throw $250 or a little more your way if your close enough to do it. + cost of supplies of course. PM me if that is an option.
 
#24
Tell the guy if the motor runs when you put it in he can keep the money. If not tell him that he was no help and no $$ for him. And about the heads. Don't get your stockers done imo, you can get aftermarket ones for that much. Not AFR, but at least something. Tell ya what, I'll redo your stockers for ya AND port them AND get the expensive head gaskets if you do my paint job! lol, but seriously :)
 
#25
when it comes to cheap, you cant beat the pick n pull, these motors are generally so strong you can get a used one with some miles and it will run forever, try and get one off an aod car cause they aren't as beet on usually, you should be able to get a longblock for WAY under 500$ thats in real good shape, my friend just got a super low mileage stang longlblock for 300$ that runs sick and has taken 100 shot of nitrous many times by now! occasionally you can get a little warranty on them too if your nice and ask for it, if you need a step by step basic guide to porting ford heads, email me at [email protected] and i'll email you the fordmuscle.com one, (sorry fordmuscle :nono: )

good luck with it
 
#26
$$$300. Good find. I guess it eats at me a little that this guy works at a machine shop, and dropped in a fresh engine, not bothering to tear apart the old one first. You would think an experienced specialist would know to condemn the old motor first. Also why would he drop in the old engine and pull the fresh rebuild, instead of just giving the engine he just pulled a fresh once over and keeping the new rebuild installed?. Just doesn't make since to me to pull a fresh motor when working at a machine shop you could freshen up the old one for cheap and save time on the swap. Swapping the engine twice in one sitting sure would frustrate the hell out of me. If it looks good, great find. I am known to be very picky and cautious, so maybe it's just paranoia speaking. Either way take someone with you that knows something about motors, maybe check a few cylinders for taper. Just my 2 cents.


Paul Perreca said:
Should I have the bare block bored .030 or .3 or whatever lol The guy i'm gona buy the motor from works at a machine shop so... thanks

Paul Perreca
Click to expand...

Just a quick lesson on cylinder taper. Standard bore on a 302 C.I. (5.0L) engine is 4.0000 inches. This means the "hole" the pistons stroke up and down in is 4.000 at ANY point in the cylinder from one side to the other. They have tools that check the size in .0001 increments. When you put the tool in the cylinder you can check to see if the bore has worn from 4.0000 to say 4.019 or 4.010. If the cylinders have worn this much it can cause "blow-by" a condition that decreases compression in the cylinders, dramitically decreases in HP readings, and can burn oil. Egg-shelling is when the sides of the cylinder that the piston pushes against harder has more taper than the rest of the cylinder which can have the same effect as an oversized cylinder. A quick and dirty check can be done "altough NOT very accurate and will only tell you if the engine has 20 miles or not" is to check for a ridge at the top of the cylinder. If when you put the finger down the top of the cylinder it should be smooth with no lip period. If the cylinder drops .007 or so and is not completely smooth then this engine has lots more miles then hes telling you, and you need to walk away. Keep in mind this check will NOT tell you if he bored the engine .020 or so and only went with oversized rings and stock pistons, or if you took some other cheap rebuild method he wasn't happy with, this check will only tell you if the block has been honed which is a good starting point to keep inspecting or walk away.
 
#27
Update - found out that guy wants $200.00 for that short block, I am going out to his place tommorow to look at it. I really appreciate all of the feedback I got. Helped alot. Now if i have the motor bored out to a 306 what do i have to change other than pistons? THANKS!!!!!!!!
Paul Perreca
 
#31
Well if this 89 shortblock is ok, i think 250 dollars is a great deal, and the guy replaced all the **** on the inside of the block, so everything about the shortblock i am getting is new, but from 1989, as i am told. I feel that i should make it a 306, because its already gonna be apart and out of the car, wouldnt it be smart to do it the first time, instead of just getting my car running w/ a 302 and than doing a 306 later?
What kind of differences in power will i see from a 302 to a 306?
I want my car to run 13.8 at least - do you think i could run that with a regular 302, bran new, and a stock cam, stock everything - just new, and a cobra upper and lower intake? witha heads taht have a fresh valve job on them? is that possible these being my only mods? HOw about if i port and polish the heads? I just wanna pull mid-high 13's! Its my daily driver, and i love the car - never gonna get rid of it, no matter how many motors it goes through.
 
#33
I live in the N.W. side of Davenport. I actually have several cars. The Mustang I own is an 89 GT I just bought 2-3 months ago. Oil pan had rusted through, so the guy (suit and tie type) bought a new SPI pan and a one peice pan gasket, tore the engine apart and didn't know how to put it back together. The nic alone should tell you the condition of the vehicle. (The $100 included the new pan and pan gasket :banana: )I haven't updated the site since I completed the rebuild, and it's a sight for sore eyes (at best). If you want to see pics here's a link.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829765
 
#34
my$100project said:
I live in the N.W. side of Davenport. I actually have several cars. The Mustang I own is an 89 GT I just bought 2-3 months ago. Oil pan had rusted through, so the guy (suit and tie type) bought a new SPI pan and a one peice pan gasket, tore the engine apart and didn't know how to put it back together. The nic alone should tell you the condition of the vehicle. (The $100 included the new pan and pan gasket :banana: )I haven't updated the site since I completed the rebuild, and it's a sight for sore eyes (at best). If you want to see pics here's a link.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829765
Click to expand...
you going to the car show next saturday at North Park (the 16th, 6pm)
I'll be there with my "money-pit"

....do you know any good places that can mount/balance tires for cheap :shrug:

Sorry for getting off topic people :D
 
#35
Next Saturday, We'll see if the wife has to work. If so I'll have the kid. If not we'll all go. Hmmm, I usually do all that stuff myself. I have free access to the equipment for my personal vehicles. Just have to pay for the weights. I'll see what I can do, I'm not guaranting you anything as it's a "personal vehicle's only situation", they may say ok if you throw them $5-$10 plus weights. If you can wait till Monday I'll ask and I'll let you know one way or another. I would think you could possibly call river city tire and tires plus both on Brady St. see what they charge and Firestone at North Park will probably beat their price.

hey Paul any update? Did you buy the engine? If so, how's it look?
 
#37
I may be able to get you in and out no problem, no charge. You would have to help though.--I could show you how to pull the old tires, clean rims, reinsall new tires etc, while I balanced, And you have have to bring in the rims --leave the car- So I could say they where mine. Maybe we could work out a deal with the rear-end kit, for cheap. What does it include? Time is of the essence--I'm buying gears either tomorrow or Wednesday. I was hoping to get some runs in completely stock with rebuild to compare to gear/exhaust mod times, but I just can't wait 3 weeks, and I'm guessing with stock gears/exhaust I'll be lucky to run 15's anyways. Anyways let me know.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
Forced Induction On3 Turbo Kit- Parts list NEEDED - 302 Stock Motor
Replies
21
Views
1K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
slow84lx
S
9
Engine Donor '00 Mountaineer meet '91 Fox
Replies
41
Views
876
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
91firecracker
9
J
Help Figuring Motor Choice(Possible future turbo)?
Replies
13
Views
632
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Jarhead67
J
91AOD5.0LX
Removing speedo cable from the VSS
Replies
27
Views
847
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
91AOD5.0LX
91AOD5.0LX
1
Engine Motor swap from a 2003 Explorer
Replies
7
Views
589
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
squeak93
squeak93
Top Bottom
Back
Forums
Menu