Narrowed it down to 2 combo's,need Help!

89tang said:
Yup i can see he's put alot of time into that combo to get it where it's at.

But i also think most ppl. like myself aren't going to get a stock headed stock cammed mustang that fast.

Definatly, but...
lets not forget, the heads are not stock.
installing larger valves requires bowl work, and, you can be sure he's got a nice 3 angle valve job.
Now, I don't think he's got the budget of some of those guys who have over $3000 in thier "unported" heads, but, they are not stock.

Even given all that, most people will never commit the time to learning the combo that it takes to run that fast even on worked over heads.
 
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tmoss said:
Whatever intake you use, be sure to mock up the lower intake with the AFR heads and see if porting will be beneficial. In most cases it is. A customer of mine recently switched from a ported Explorer to an RPMII and lost torque and HP across the board, then switched back to the Explorer. The 165 heads really seem to respond well to a mid-size runner cross section.
Hey Tom,,do you know anything about the street heat intake? I hear its good for low end.Would an Explorer lower bolt up to a stock upper?(Mustang upper)
 
willy save the money on trickflow or elde. and my ppi and have tmoss clean the ports for about the same money. i think it would be better than the other two out of the box.i i would go the thumper route and save the money for suspension and dyno tuning.
 
NYC LSC said:
I have the Thumper heads (stock valve sizes and heavy duty springs) with a Comp Cams XE270HR-14 cam and it's gotten this 3800+ pound pig down the track pretty quick for what it is.

When I first took the car to the track and it ran slower than the old motor's times, I was convinced I needed better heads and would tell all the guys that I think I'm gonna go get some AFR 165s.

As the car sits now, it's 1 second and 9mph quicker than the old motor. I gotta believe that the weight difference between my car and a Mustang would put a Stang in the high 12's with this set-up.

Good luck with the new build, man. Maybe I'll catch ya at E-Town next season. :nice:

I am with you on this.
My 87 vert weighed in at a hefty 3800# race weight this spring with me and my normal stuff in the car no weight reductions. I ran 13.90 @ 100 mph with a 1.98 60 ft on street tires. I didnt launch, I just reved to 1200 or so and eased clutch out and layed into the gas. I had a 125k on the stock bottom end, with comp cams nx264hr cam, stock cobra upper and lower and 24# injs, 65mm tb, 75mm pro m meter.and thumper heads with dual springs and 1.7 rr. for bottom end power thumpers rock... I ran a similar time when i had my tmoss lower and stock upper.

My new motor has afr 165's tfs stage one built balanced decked 306 tmoss ported cobra lower stock cobra upper and more see link in sig i havent ran at track yet but i have about 1400 miles on it now. It dosent pull as hard down low as my thumper set up but it has more mid to top end to it. If you want you power down low for great launches and awesome power off the line youll love the tmoss thumper combo, especiall for the $ spent. Your powerband will be decided alot by the cam you decide to use. You may want to advance your stock cam 2-4 degrees to really make it come to life down low. or retard the cam 2-4* to get more top end. When you drag race at the track you want to get off the line quick the faster you get off the line the sooner you get to the other end. Save the $ like you said and buy the suspension stuff. I have had the ported stock set up and the nice after market set up. Unless you want to spend the money to buy all the supporting parts to make the afr heads work for you dont buy them now. You will likely go slower if you buy the afr heads and use the stock cam with a biggger intake set up. youll have ton of air flow and no velocity and it will be a dog.. Youll like the ported stocker set up.
 
rsw007 said:
willy save the money on trickflow or elde. and my ppi and have tmoss clean the ports for about the same money. i think it would be better than the other two out of the box.i i would go the thumper route and save the money for suspension and dyno tuning.
I already have a ported lower from him,,do you think Im better off with that? How about an explorer? I love the bottom end torque I have rite now,,but would love to have more :nice: Look at my et,,and mph,,not to much top end,,but thats OK :nice: What do ya think?
 
Based on what you just stated i think youll LOVE thumpers/tmoss combo. Get a tfs 1 cam advance it 2 degrees and youll really love it. the tfs1 is cheap its 135.00 or so. get thumpers the tfs 1 keep the tmoss lower. it will rock with the aod youll need the bottom end.
 
hey 89tang,how did you bend the valves?and for everyone else sorry cause i never heard of them but who sells the thumper factory castings and are they better than the gt40's turbo swirl 194/154 valves that they advertise in the mags for $699?
 
willys1 said:
Would an Explorer be ok? Or should I go with a Cobra?

a stock explorer upper and lower will not flow much more that a ported tmoss lower and stock upper. I went from a tmoss lower and a stock lightly ported upper to a box stock cobra upper and lower. it wasnt enuff differnce to notice the change. :shrug: the explore and cobra are bascally the same.
 
5.0Droptop said:
When you drag race at the track you want to get off the line quick the faster you get off the line the sooner you get to the other end.

Yeah but at the track you only use that "off the line" power for literally probably a second...and the rest of the trip down the rest of the track is at 3500rpm+ where the AFR's really start to shine...they keep wanting to rev...

And usually when you look at dynos of AFR/custom cam setups they have similar torque numbers down low but because of the greater hp in the upper rpms and gives the ole' SOTP fake and makes you think you lost torque...that is how I look at it on my car...because I have the same if not more torque (going by feel) than stock cam'ed and of course the upper rpm doesn't have much of a match...
 
5spd GT said:
Yeah but at the track you only use that "off the line" power for literally probably a second...and the rest of the trip down the rest of the track is at 3500rpm+ where the AFR's really start to shine...they keep wanting to rev...

And usually when you look at dynos of AFR/custom cam setups they have similar torque numbers down low but because of the greater hp in the upper rpms and gives the ole' SOTP fake and makes you think you lost torque...that is how I look at it on my car...because I have the same if not more torque (going by feel) than stock cam'ed and of course the upper rpm doesn't have much of a match...

I know what you mean. the upper rpms are awesome on my afr headed combo. But I have the supporting mods for the heads.
 
HELLPPP,how do i get a hold of the thumper heads?do they have a website or phone#?and what i meant was are they better than aluminium gt 40 turbo swirl?wilys1 ppi is the professional products intake and it looks like an edelbrock.
 
5spd GT said:
Yeah but at the track you only use that "off the line" power for literally probably a second...and the rest of the trip down the rest of the track is at 3500rpm+ where the AFR's really start to shine...they keep wanting to rev...

And usually when you look at dynos of AFR/custom cam setups they have similar torque numbers down low but because of the greater hp in the upper rpms and gives the ole' SOTP fake and makes you think you lost torque...that is how I look at it on my car...because I have the same if not more torque (going by feel) than stock cam'ed and of course the upper rpm doesn't have much of a match...
Not to change the subject(hey wait a minute,its my thread :D ) you hit the nail on the head about the hp rating on the afr 165's(41hp) what do you think canfields are?They make a set specifically for 5.0's.
 
jocko said:
hey 89tang,how did you bend the valves?and for everyone else sorry cause i never heard of them but who sells the thumper factory castings and are they better than the gt40's turbo swirl 194/154 valves that they advertise in the mags for $699?

Well i was driving along punched it alittle when i hit 3rd an let off. BOOM!!! Crank broke right behind the front two rods, that part of the crank came through the front of the timing chain cover an the front main support, snapping one rod an twisting the other one an breaking the piston. So musta caused an uneven balance an one of the back pistons smacked the head, only bent the valves about 1/8 or less of an inch. But still enough i didn't wanna screw with it, since i had found my RPMs for so cheap.