You have a great idea and I think I'm going to try that. So when you said you "sprayed the end of it with brake cleaner", are you talking about where the speedometer cable mounts into? Did you clean or spray down the disc and magnets also?You might want to try what I did @1992MustangGT, worked for me.
Is there any other oil you would suggest using other than swamp cooler bearing oil? I can go buy some of that oil, but if there's another type of oil that would work, I might actually have some. Just wanted to know what options I have.I hosed the rotating assy, disk and magnets, and where the cable goes into the back of the speedo with brake cleaner. I had a few extra speedo’s so I wasn’t concerned about it. I previously had it repaired and calibrated and it worked for a few weeks then went back to where it was before. A noisy and jumpy speedo.
I had some swamp cooler bearing oil and used that to lube the rotating assy. Been quiet and pretty accurate ever since. It’s been a few years and haven’t had an issue with it.
I did make sure that my new cable was good to go and throughly lubed with that graphite powder.
This may be a dumb question, but is there any reason why regular ole motor oil wouldn't work?You got me thinking about the oil, and this is what I used.
Nonetheless, I appreciate everyone's help....Damn. Sorry man. When I did mine I had 3 speedometers to choose from and picked the best one
3-in-1 oil is no good for instrumentation, too heavy, i.e. 20W. Watch oil or jeweler's oil would be the best. 10W Hunter fan motor oil would work. I've had good luck with Corrosion Block for restoring electrical switches.Well I finally got the speedometer cleaned and oiled (3-in-1 oil) and got it installed. Took the car for a drive and it is still sticking and not reading correctly. Cleaning and oiling it made no difference. GRRRR!!!! I did install some new LED lights in the instrument cluster and man do they look great!!!!!!
Good to know. Well maybe I need to clean it out again and try a different oil. Thanks for the info.3-in-1 oil is no good for instrumentation, too heavy, i.e. 20W. Watch oil or jeweler's oil would be the best. 10W Hunter fan motor oil would work. I've had good luck with Corrosion Block for restoring electrical switches.
Lear Chemical Research Corporation
Lear Chemical Research developing and compounding anti corrosion lubricants and greases, ACF-50, Corrosion Block, Corrosion Block Grease, Rust Block, effectively solving corrosion related problems in the Automotive, Aviation, Industrial, Marine, Motorcycle and Recreational industries.learchem.com
I searched Youtube for videos on how to do this, but I can't find any. Do you guys have a video or pictures or extremely good instructions on how to change the odometer reading? I don't know how to get the odometer apart and I don't want to break it.
Obviously, this isn't the sort of tech info that you normally want out in public, but there're a couple guys that have done it before who might reach out to you.
I zeroed the Dash in my dodge when I had the gauge cluster rebuilt.......
What a read is " as long as you declare it" no problem......
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