Progress Thread Project Leroy
- Thread starter bluestang347
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Yup.... Screw those guys.
That's one of those fck around and find out situations. They just found out.
I somewhat feel like I am cutting my nose off the spite my face but I have to give my business to Lentech for having great customer service.
I pulled the trigger on an eagle competition rotating assembly yesterday and have a machine shop lined up to get the block in spec and balance the rotating assembly. I ended up with a 347 kit like my 92 car I had before. I went this route partly for nostalgia and so I will have more wall to cut into if I ever damage the cylinder walls. I should have the engine ready to go once I get the car back from the body shop but it will probably still be a wait for the transmission.
The dart block I ordered early this week from Johnson Engine parts has already arrived. I also received the rotating assembly today as well.
I am about to order the heads and was hoping yall could double check me on something. I want to make sure I end up the the correct compression ratio. I went with the eagle 14003030 kit.
I am trying to determine if I need to go with 58cc or 72cc AFR185s for my build. I am using the Summit Racing compression calculator and just want to make sure I have everything entered correctly.
I entered the following
Bore: 4.030 in
Stroke: 3.4 in
Cylinder Head Volume: 72cc
Effective Dome Volume: -6cc
Deck Clearance: .025 in
Compressed Gasket Thickness: .060 in
Cylinders: 8
This gives me a compression ration of 9.5:1
What I want to double check is the effective dome volume. The kit I purchased has Mahle pistons that are listed as flat top -6cc. On Summit Racing's website the specs list +5cc piston head volume. Am I correct in using the -6cc for the compression calculator and what is the +5cc piston head volume?
If I do the same but with a 58cc head it puts me at 11.19:1 compression ratio. Considering I am going turbo should I go with the 72cc and .060 head gasket so I end up at 9.5:1? I will be running 93 pump gas only.
I am about to order the heads and was hoping yall could double check me on something. I want to make sure I end up the the correct compression ratio. I went with the eagle 14003030 kit.
I am trying to determine if I need to go with 58cc or 72cc AFR185s for my build. I am using the Summit Racing compression calculator and just want to make sure I have everything entered correctly.
I entered the following
Bore: 4.030 in
Stroke: 3.4 in
Cylinder Head Volume: 72cc
Effective Dome Volume: -6cc
Deck Clearance: .025 in
Compressed Gasket Thickness: .060 in
Cylinders: 8
This gives me a compression ration of 9.5:1
What I want to double check is the effective dome volume. The kit I purchased has Mahle pistons that are listed as flat top -6cc. On Summit Racing's website the specs list +5cc piston head volume. Am I correct in using the -6cc for the compression calculator and what is the +5cc piston head volume?
If I do the same but with a 58cc head it puts me at 11.19:1 compression ratio. Considering I am going turbo should I go with the 72cc and .060 head gasket so I end up at 9.5:1? I will be running 93 pump gas only.
Sounds similar to my setup. I'm using flat-top pistons and ended up with 9.8 CR. I'd have to dig up paperwork to recall specifics. Ed Curtis cam and a 2.2L Kenne Bell tucked into a DART Sportsman.
I'm also running AFR 185s. I should have gone with the 205 but at the time, I needed to keep my emissions equipment.
I'm also running AFR 185s. I should have gone with the 205 but at the time, I needed to keep my emissions equipment.
That sounds like an awesome setup. I wish you could still buy the kennebell sbf kits. Do you know how much power you are making? My original plan was to go with the cnc 195 because I thought it was the biggest I could use with the header flange on my turbo kit, but I was wrong. I'll still be able to make more than enough power for my needs so I don't really mind but if I did it again I would have ordered the turbo kit with the flange for 205s.
The DynoJet from initial tuning gave me 460 RWHP and 510 ft/lbs. There were changes since then but I've no real idea what any of it was worth.
I was a lot younger then and stupidly disappointed that I'd missed my 500 RWHP goal.
It's a scary beast and a lot of fun. I need to dig it out of mothballs and overhaul the suspension and brakes and all soft bushings and seals.
Just need life to start cooperating for a bit.
I was a lot younger then and stupidly disappointed that I'd missed my 500 RWHP goal.
It's a scary beast and a lot of fun. I need to dig it out of mothballs and overhaul the suspension and brakes and all soft bushings and seals.
Just need life to start cooperating for a bit.
company, bad reputation, IMO... Much better options out there. On3 is the China of turbo companies. Anyways, is that head unit relocation with the climate controls from 417 fox? I have another one from him in one of my cars, and it's not as nice.
I don't have any recommendations for you man. You're blazing a trail and you're going to have an amaze-balls car when finished. Excited to watch your progress! You're making all the right moves!
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You lucked out. Lentech FTMFW! That's who I'd have gone with if I had chosen to go auto. I spent some time scoping them out, and their staff was awesomely supportive. I believe in that company. Stick with em!
I ended up going with a ponydown turbo kkt that turned out fantastic.
I think that is the second gen 417 stereo kit. He has a more updated version now.
Chris at Lentech was excellent to work with. I am glad I ended up going with them and have also seen a lot of positive feedback on them.
I appreciate it Im really looking forward to getting it together. I had to pump the brakes on the build for about a year.
I am going to run boost control by gear with the terminator x so I picked up this CO2 tank and mac valves. The tank will mount on the cage behind one of the seats.
The rod bolts are supposed to make the rotating assembly go from being rated for 750 to 1200.
I ordered the heads and roller rockers last night so I have everything for the build now besides gaskets and the pushrods that I will measure for later.
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After talking to the guy who is doing the body work for me it sounds like I won't have the car back for about 2 more months or so. I just got the call from the machine shop that my block and rotating assembly are ready to be picked up. I plan on going to get it today and assembling the engine over the next week or two. With that in mind should I get an engine bag or something to keep it in while it is sitting waiting for the car to come back? Is there anything else I should do considering it will be sitting for 2-3 months? I also have about 2 1/2 more months until the transmission is ready.
I put a 306 together and just taped up the exhaust ports, lower intake ports, and any other holes. Bagged it and it sat in the shop for about 6 months before it went in the car and had zero issues. Left the engine oil out and dumped that in and primed it before it went in the car.
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