New MS2 kit User on a 95' GT

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a91what

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It will require you to rescale the entire fuel map, it's going to be a large change once it start reading. Highlight the entire table and add fuel by percentages by multiplying by 1.05 (adding 5%)
Your other settings wont be affected much. Do this first once the sensor is reading then we can go back and look at the other issues.
 
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oleydd970

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Oct 14, 2006
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Alright Guys. It would appear that I had put the Coolant temp sensor values in. But, when I selected the MAT sensor, the values stayed from the Coolant sensor....so I must not have written the MAT sensor to the controller, thinking that they were in there. So, all I did was select the MAT sensor and hit write to controller and now MAT temp is reading ambient instead of Arctic conditions. a91what, by the entire fuel table, I assume you mean the Fuel VE Table 1? That's what I did anyhow, if that's not right let me know. I am unable to start the car today as we have had a bunch of storms, the car is in my garage, but it was coming down sideways. And now its too late...my neighbors still mostly like me, so I quit starting and revving the car at 9:30 or so. So if the fuel table looks ok I will fire it up tomorrow after work. Thanks again for the help guys.
 

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a91what

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Sort of... the issue is the VE table needs to be based on the running MAT of the engine... so we need to add a tone of fuel because you tuned it to a very low temp so the ECU was adding fuel. now that it will be corrected, the ecu will pull about 10-12% at idle. I probably over compensated on this tune but it should be ballpark.
 

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oleydd970

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Oct 14, 2006
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Miamisburg, Ohio
I made a change Physically to the Throttle body/IAC. I'm not sure if alot of people know, but on 94-95 GT's there is a screw that lets more air past the IAC valve. it was kind of bugging me that the IAC had a duty cycle of 45%. I can physically hear it at idle over the motor at that amount. Anyhow, I had the air bypass screw pretty closed down (1.25 turns out or CCW). Full open is 8 turns out or CCW. I set it at 6 turns CCW and now PWM idle duty is down to about 35%, which makes it alot quieter and gives the ECU more of a span to work with. I re-ran an PWM Idle duty sweep and reworked C/L Idle Initial Values chart and Idle Cranking Duty Steps. As of now, I have pretty good O/L Idle, it wants to stall if I rev the throttle and it does oscillate a tiny bit before settling out, If I save it with the throttle. My C/L Idle oscillates a little bit, doesn't stall when revved, but does oscillate pretty big four or five times then settle out a bit. I have messed with the P&I of the PID adjusments and the Idle Adaptive Advanced Timing. Just not sure what i should do next. BTW...i didn't see your fuel table until after I ran the car, so I haven't loaded it yet. I have autotuned the one I reworked. If you think I need to use the one you did for me let me know. Here is an O/L Idle Log and a C/L Idle Log, the only difference in the tune is turn on/off C/L idle.
 

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a91what

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Ok so i see some progress and the MAT sensor is in fact working so thats good. The oscillation has alot to do with the AFR around the idle range as the car started to die the AFR would go lean, as well as when you revved it the car would go full lean. I made some changes to the fuel table to smooth it and bring the valleys up. I also adjusted the PID gains in the CL settings and put in an optimized IGN table...
If you want to tune the idle valve you will want to move the sliding gain bar just above the PID settings, dont mess with the PID gains unless you have exhausted the PID gain slider.

I hope this helps, its late and I have probably left a step or two out.
 

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oleydd970

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Oct 14, 2006
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You are the man! I probably won't get a chance to run until Saturday. I greatly appreciate all you do and your time. Should I run an autotune on it once I get it running?
 

a91what

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Wont hurt, sometimes autotune will mess up idle fuel, it helps to grab the boxes the car will idle in and make them all the same value.
 

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