New MS2 kit User on a 95' GT

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a91what

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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It will require you to rescale the entire fuel map, it's going to be a large change once it start reading. Highlight the entire table and add fuel by percentages by multiplying by 1.05 (adding 5%)
Your other settings wont be affected much. Do this first once the sensor is reading then we can go back and look at the other issues.
 
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oleydd970

Member
Oct 14, 2006
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Miamisburg, Ohio
Alright Guys. It would appear that I had put the Coolant temp sensor values in. But, when I selected the MAT sensor, the values stayed from the Coolant sensor....so I must not have written the MAT sensor to the controller, thinking that they were in there. So, all I did was select the MAT sensor and hit write to controller and now MAT temp is reading ambient instead of Arctic conditions. a91what, by the entire fuel table, I assume you mean the Fuel VE Table 1? That's what I did anyhow, if that's not right let me know. I am unable to start the car today as we have had a bunch of storms, the car is in my garage, but it was coming down sideways. And now its too late...my neighbors still mostly like me, so I quit starting and revving the car at 9:30 or so. So if the fuel table looks ok I will fire it up tomorrow after work. Thanks again for the help guys.
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
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Sort of... the issue is the VE table needs to be based on the running MAT of the engine... so we need to add a tone of fuel because you tuned it to a very low temp so the ECU was adding fuel. now that it will be corrected, the ecu will pull about 10-12% at idle. I probably over compensated on this tune but it should be ballpark.
 

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oleydd970

Member
Oct 14, 2006
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Miamisburg, Ohio
I made a change Physically to the Throttle body/IAC. I'm not sure if alot of people know, but on 94-95 GT's there is a screw that lets more air past the IAC valve. it was kind of bugging me that the IAC had a duty cycle of 45%. I can physically hear it at idle over the motor at that amount. Anyhow, I had the air bypass screw pretty closed down (1.25 turns out or CCW). Full open is 8 turns out or CCW. I set it at 6 turns CCW and now PWM idle duty is down to about 35%, which makes it alot quieter and gives the ECU more of a span to work with. I re-ran an PWM Idle duty sweep and reworked C/L Idle Initial Values chart and Idle Cranking Duty Steps. As of now, I have pretty good O/L Idle, it wants to stall if I rev the throttle and it does oscillate a tiny bit before settling out, If I save it with the throttle. My C/L Idle oscillates a little bit, doesn't stall when revved, but does oscillate pretty big four or five times then settle out a bit. I have messed with the P&I of the PID adjusments and the Idle Adaptive Advanced Timing. Just not sure what i should do next. BTW...i didn't see your fuel table until after I ran the car, so I haven't loaded it yet. I have autotuned the one I reworked. If you think I need to use the one you did for me let me know. Here is an O/L Idle Log and a C/L Idle Log, the only difference in the tune is turn on/off C/L idle.
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
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Ok so i see some progress and the MAT sensor is in fact working so thats good. The oscillation has alot to do with the AFR around the idle range as the car started to die the AFR would go lean, as well as when you revved it the car would go full lean. I made some changes to the fuel table to smooth it and bring the valleys up. I also adjusted the PID gains in the CL settings and put in an optimized IGN table...
If you want to tune the idle valve you will want to move the sliding gain bar just above the PID settings, dont mess with the PID gains unless you have exhausted the PID gain slider.

I hope this helps, its late and I have probably left a step or two out.
 

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oleydd970

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Oct 14, 2006
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You are the man! I probably won't get a chance to run until Saturday. I greatly appreciate all you do and your time. Should I run an autotune on it once I get it running?
 

a91what

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Wont hurt, sometimes autotune will mess up idle fuel, it helps to grab the boxes the car will idle in and make them all the same value.
 

oleydd970

Member
Oct 14, 2006
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Miamisburg, Ohio
Well...sorry I haven't replied in a while. I had to replace my laptop and have just had a bunch of stuff going on. Anyhow, I applied your tune and it helped quite a bit with my idle surging. So i locked autotune out of changing settings around idle. I started to drive the car around, while autotuning and after the autotune applied. As i pushed the car a little higher in rpm, I got a miss that started around 3500-4000 rpm or so that was a lot like it was in the rev limiter. it didn't really miss if I was just revving it up in the driveway...under no load...so I kinda thought it was fuel at first, but the AFR looked okay...I thought. I checked my settings and I had the rev limiter set much higher. As I was trying to figure what is going on, I was leaning on an ignition problem, I felt my TFI module (fender mounted on a heat sink) and it was very hot (154 f), As its the original in the car, I thought it might be developing a heat problem. I ordered a new MotorCraft part, still have the miss. So I replaced the Stator (hall effect sensor) in the Distributor. Still have the miss. So i put my original stock coil back in...still have the miss. As I changed these parts the miss became less severe, not like a rev limiter, so to speak. less consistant of a miss, but still missing. I originally could not see anything in my data logs. So i have put everything back except the TFI module and the stator. At this point I'm pretty sure its either something in the MegaSquirt or my tune. One thing to note is, I have an Autometer Sport comp Tach with a shift light. The shift light starts blinking when it is missing, even though its set for a much higher rpm. I thought maybe a noise problem, I isolated the ground point from the shield on the Ignition wires from my MegaSquirt harness, still flashes when missing. I did log 2 files one in the driveway and one driving yesterday. Spark Advance advances up and stays up when I rev it up in the driveway. In the driving log, Spark Advance is dropping off....I don't recall seeing this in my older logs...when this first started. Anyhow any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I would like to get all the bugs and or problems worked out so I can actually take some class time with you to learn better (a91what). If you don't see anything in the tune or data logs I will have to get a hold of MegaSquirt, anyhow thanks in advance.
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
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your miss appears to be a severe lean condition in the datalog... even free revving in the driveway the AFR is in the 18+ range, the engine will not want to run like this at all.
 

oleydd970

Member
Oct 14, 2006
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Miamisburg, Ohio
Excellent...I will try it out tomorrow after work. If this gets me where i can trust it to drive around more, should i run an autotune on it? And also if this gets rid of the miss, I would feel comfortable that I don't have any issues with my MegaSquirt and the car. Which I would want to schedule a class with you. So I don't know what your schedule or upcoming availability is, but hopefully we can set something up fairly soon.
 

Blown88GT

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Nov 13, 1999
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Your Ignition Table doesn't look right for your build.
1. Max kPa load of 300.
2. Too much base timing below 1200 rpm; you already have base timing at 14degBTDC.

Questions & observations:
1. Which Megasquirt kit do you have? They haven't sold the DIYPNPF60's in a while.
2. I know that the '94-'95's are somewhat different (i.e. SN95 vs Fox).
3. Your tune signature="MS2Extra comms342a2
4. My tune signature="MS2Extra comms342aM
5. Your Ignition Options do indicate a DIYPNP (polarity different from others).
6. Might be a good time to find the actual Dead Time & BCV for your 24 lb injectors. Some of the early Ford's are no where near the defaults.
 

a91what

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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Hillsborough county
Your Ignition Table doesn't look right for your build.
1. Max kPa load of 300.
2. Too much base timing below 1200 rpm; you already have base timing at 14degBTDC.

Questions & observations:
1. Which Megasquirt kit do you have? They haven't sold the DIYPNPF60's in a while.
2. I know that the '94-'95's are somewhat different (i.e. SN95 vs Fox).
3. Your tune signature="MS2Extra comms342a2
4. My tune signature="MS2Extra comms342aM
5. Your Ignition Options do indicate a DIYPNP (polarity different from others).
6. Might be a good time to find the actual Dead Time & BCV for your 24 lb injectors. Some of the early Ford's are no where near the defaults.
The values in the ign table are not added to the ignition offset. his idle timing is not based on the ign table1 value the way his idle settings are setup. the values above 100kpa in the ign table do not matter, that table is looks very similar to one i use in some base tunes. The ign table does not need a ton of resolution like the VE table does.