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Bronco Bart · Aug 17, 2022

I'm new to this site. I bought this 89 Mustang two years ago and am now looking into addressing a few problems that have come up. It started to sputter at around 4500-5000rpm and also at lower rpm when under load. Also not every time but is happening more and more now. I've replaced the plugs
Wires
Filter
Fuel pump with no change. I don't have a great deal of experience with sensors and replays and it has crossed my mind to just switch to carb. I'm leaving for something advice on what to look for and what to try to change first.

Thanks Bart

Bronco Bart · Aug 17, 2022

Bronco Bart · Aug 17, 2022

Bronco Bart said:
I'm new to this site. I bought this 89 Mustang two years ago and am now looking into addressing a few problems that have come up. It started to sputter at around 4500-5000rpm and also at lower rpm when under load. Also not every time but is happening more and more now. I've replaced the plugs
Wires
Filter
Fuel pump with no change. I don't have a great deal of experience with sensors and replays and it has crossed my mind to just switch to carb. I'm leaving for something advice on what to look for and what to try to change first.

Thanks Bart

***Looking for some advice on what to look for and what to try to change first***

90sickfox · Aug 17, 2022

First advise is not to use those plugs, platinum, or iridium. Regular Autolite or Motorcraft copper core plugs. Check the distributor pick up under the plate the rotor button sits on. To replace it the distributor has to come out and the gear has to be removed.

90sickfox · Aug 17, 2022

Oh...and welcome to the forum. I've been involved with this forum since 2015. Best group of helpful guys I've ever seen in a forum. There's someone that can give advise on anything mustang related here.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 17, 2022

Welcome. I concur on not running those plugs. More of a gimmick than anything. The iginitions on these cars seem to be most happy running stock copper plugs gapped at 0.052" - 0.056".

I would pull the codes first and go from there. If it's a bad sensor, it should come up here. Keep in mind you'll need to pull the key off, and the engine running codes.

https://lmr.com/products/fox-body-mustang-ob1-codes#:~:text=KEY%3A%200%20%3D%20Key%20On%20Engine%20Off%20%28KOEO%29,How%20To%20Pull%20Diagnostic%20Codes%20on%201986-93%20Mustangs

A cheap code reader if you do not want to use a paper clip and count CEL flashes

3145 Digital Ford Code Reader (1981 – 1995)

Get precise diagnostics for ford cars (1981-1995) with the Innova 3145 Digital Code Reader. Troubleshoot efficiently and buy now!

www.innova.com

A bunch of youtube vids showing how to run the reader.

Any more engine bay pics? Might help spot something that looks out of place or incorrect. From the one shot i see, i don't see a fan shroud on the radiator. If you have any overheating issues, that might be a culprit

Potomus Pete · Aug 17, 2022

Lets get it fixed Bronco Bart

Rdub6 · Aug 17, 2022

@Bronco Bart if you stick with this forum, and give good feed back, you’ll get the answers you need. These guys know what they’re talking about and know how to solve problems……. Even I know a thing or two here and there. Lol….. but I’m usually on the asking end of the problems!

Bronco Bart · Aug 18, 2022

Thanks alot everybody. I'll get my hands on a code reader and go from there.

It does leak a bit of antifreeze form the around the buckets but don't have a overheating problem. The rad says life time warranty right on it. Not sure if that applies to me not being the original owner or have the receipt for the rad. Ya I can take some more pics of the engine bay. I was also thinking of trying to get rid of the smog pump. There is no E-tests where I live.

Bronco Bart · Aug 18, 2022

By the way I'm from Huntsville Ontario. A few hours north and the boarder in Niagara falls. Thanks everyone for the welcome

Potomus Pete · Aug 18, 2022

Bronco Bart said:
Thanks alot everybody. I'll get my hands on a code reader and go from there.

It does leak a bit of antifreeze form the around the buckets but don't have a overheating problem. The rad says life time warranty right on it. Not sure if that applies to me not being the original owner or have the receipt for the rad. Ya I can take some more pics of the engine bay. I was also thinking of trying to get rid of the smog pump. There is no E-tests where I live.

I took mine off...It's acceptable where I live

General karthief · Aug 18, 2022

Don't throw the emissions stuff away if you do take it off, you'll thank me someday.
If it all works there is really no reason to remove it,

limp · Aug 19, 2022

General karthief said:
Don't throw the emissions stuff away if you do take it off, you'll thank me someday.
If it all works there is really no reason to remove it,

I'm with the General here.. Stories of the smog pumps I have thrown away back in the day that are worth a fortune now.....

General karthief · Aug 19, 2022

Brackets and associated bolts, pulley too, some cities/states require emissions stuff to be in place when transferring title or issuing tags, could be a deal breaker upon selling.
Keep everything.

Bronco Bart · Aug 21, 2022

Mustang5L5 said:
Welcome. I concur on not running those plugs. More of a gimmick than anything. The iginitions on these cars seem to be most happy running stock copper plugs gapped at 0.052" - 0.056".

I would pull the codes first and go from there. If it's a bad sensor, it should come up here. Keep in mind you'll need to pull the key off, and the engine running codes.

https://lmr.com/products/fox-body-mustang-ob1-codes#:~:text=KEY%3A%200%20%3D%20Key%20On%20Engine%20Off%20%28KOEO%29,How%20To%20Pull%20Diagnostic%20Codes%20on%201986-93%20Mustangs

A cheap code reader if you do not want to use a paper clip and count CEL flashes

3145 Digital Ford Code Reader (1981 – 1995)

Get precise diagnostics for ford cars (1981-1995) with the Innova 3145 Digital Code Reader. Troubleshoot efficiently and buy now!

www.innova.com

A bunch of youtube vids showing how to run the reader.

Any more engine bay pics? Might help spot something that looks out of place or incorrect. From the one shot i see, i don't see a fan shroud on the radiator. If you have any overheating issues, that might be a culprit

I tried to get my wife to order the code reader but I don't think they ship to Canada. Will have to find a similar one here somewhere

Potomus Pete · Aug 21, 2022

They should have them at the auto parts store. Thats where I got mine for about ten bucks. Just look for OBD 1

Bronco Bart · Aug 21, 2022

Potomus Pete said:
They should have them at the auto parts store. Thats where I got mine for about ten bucks. Just look for OBD 1

Thanks

Monkeybutt2000 · Aug 21, 2022

You don't need the reader. There's an EEC test plug under the hood that can be jumpered. Look on YouTube.

General karthief · Aug 21, 2022

Don't need no stink'n utube, we gots Stangnet

Electrical - How To Pull Codes From EEC-IV In 86- 95 5.0 Mustangs

@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it... Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on. Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is...

www.stangnet.com

Bronco Bart · Aug 27, 2022

mustystang said:
I think I have some sputtering too. I asked a knowledgeable shop guy about it and he said maybe clean the fuel injectors. I haven't ran any fuel injector cleaner through my car yet though. It's on my list.

I did run a bunch of seafoam through the fuel but didn't make any difference for me.

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