New to site

I'm new to this site. I bought this 89 Mustang two years ago and am now looking into addressing a few problems that have come up. It started to sputter at around 4500-5000rpm and also at lower rpm when under load. Also not every time but is happening more and more now. I've replaced the plugs
Wires
Filter
Fuel pump with no change. I don't have a great deal of experience with sensors and replays and it has crossed my mind to just switch to carb. I'm leaving for something advice on what to look for and what to try to change first.

Thanks Bart
 

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I'm new to this site. I bought this 89 Mustang two years ago and am now looking into addressing a few problems that have come up. It started to sputter at around 4500-5000rpm and also at lower rpm when under load. Also not every time but is happening more and more now. I've replaced the plugs
Wires
Filter
Fuel pump with no change. I don't have a great deal of experience with sensors and replays and it has crossed my mind to just switch to carb. I'm leaving for something advice on what to look for and what to try to change first.

Thanks Bart
***Looking for some advice on what to look for and what to try to change first***
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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First advise is not to use those plugs, platinum, or iridium. Regular Autolite or Motorcraft copper core plugs. Check the distributor pick up under the plate the rotor button sits on. To replace it the distributor has to come out and the gear has to be removed.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Oh...and welcome to the forum. I've been involved with this forum since 2015. Best group of helpful guys I've ever seen in a forum. There's someone that can give advise on anything mustang related here.
 
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Welcome. I concur on not running those plugs. More of a gimmick than anything. The iginitions on these cars seem to be most happy running stock copper plugs gapped at 0.052" - 0.056".


I would pull the codes first and go from there. If it's a bad sensor, it should come up here. Keep in mind you'll need to pull the key off, and the engine running codes.



A cheap code reader if you do not want to use a paper clip and count CEL flashes


A bunch of youtube vids showing how to run the reader.



Any more engine bay pics? Might help spot something that looks out of place or incorrect. From the one shot i see, i don't see a fan shroud on the radiator. If you have any overheating issues, that might be a culprit
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
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@Bronco Bart if you stick with this forum, and give good feed back, you’ll get the answers you need. These guys know what they’re talking about and know how to solve problems……. Even I know a thing or two here and there. Lol….. but I’m usually on the asking end of the problems!
 
Thanks alot everybody. I'll get my hands on a code reader and go from there.

It does leak a bit of antifreeze form the around the buckets but don't have a overheating problem. The rad says life time warranty right on it. Not sure if that applies to me not being the original owner or have the receipt for the rad. Ya I can take some more pics of the engine bay. I was also thinking of trying to get rid of the smog pump. There is no E-tests where I live.
 

Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
Mar 7, 2019
3,002
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Sarasota Florida
Thanks alot everybody. I'll get my hands on a code reader and go from there.

It does leak a bit of antifreeze form the around the buckets but don't have a overheating problem. The rad says life time warranty right on it. Not sure if that applies to me not being the original owner or have the receipt for the rad. Ya I can take some more pics of the engine bay. I was also thinking of trying to get rid of the smog pump. There is no E-tests where I live.
I took mine off...It's acceptable where I live
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Brackets and associated bolts, pulley too, some cities/states require emissions stuff to be in place when transferring title or issuing tags, could be a deal breaker upon selling.
Keep everything.
 
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Welcome. I concur on not running those plugs. More of a gimmick than anything. The iginitions on these cars seem to be most happy running stock copper plugs gapped at 0.052" - 0.056".


I would pull the codes first and go from there. If it's a bad sensor, it should come up here. Keep in mind you'll need to pull the key off, and the engine running codes.



A cheap code reader if you do not want to use a paper clip and count CEL flashes


A bunch of youtube vids showing how to run the reader.



Any more engine bay pics? Might help spot something that looks out of place or incorrect. From the one shot i see, i don't see a fan shroud on the radiator. If you have any overheating issues, that might be a culprit
I tried to get my wife to order the code reader but I don't think they ship to Canada. Will have to find a similar one here somewhere
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
24,070
8,901
203
polk county florida
Don't need no stink'n utube, we gots Stangnet
:nice:
 
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mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
9
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Fl
I think I have some sputtering too. I asked a knowledgeable shop guy about it and he said maybe clean the fuel injectors. I haven't ran any fuel injector cleaner through my car yet though. It's on my list.