?Alright - working through the list:
- Novi 2k Tuner Kit
- 340 in tank fuel pump (do I need new fuel lines? I know it was said a fuel pressure regulator is not needed) - any brand recommendations for stock tank compatible one?
- 42lb Injectors and MAF to support
- MSD 6A BTM
- Tune (stock ECU - no Megasquirt)
- boost gauge
- Air / Fuel Ratio gauge
- no to HYD rollers
- no need for beehives
How is that looking?
You’re a legend - thank you.I thought you guys in Cali were banned from working on your own cars?
Get the Aeromotive Stealth 340 LPH, replaces your stock in-tank pump, no need for new lines. You will probably be looking at 30# injectors for your setup, 42#'s would be fine but probably not needed. You can always throw the FMU in there for now and run the disc calibrated for whatever injector you get. For example, I have a 347 with Vortech SC-trim and I put the FMU in with a 4:1 disc. I did this so I could drive the car around before I got it tuned, also installed the vortech included MSD 6BTM, which you can dial in ignition retard per /lb of boost. SO since this is a brand new engine and blower, I cranked it all the way up, set base timing at 10 degrees and let her rip. Down the road when I put 500 miles or so on it I'll take it in and have it tuned as I have an Anderson PMS installed to my A9L computer.
I would personally recommend a calibrated MAF for whatever injector you choose, it will 1) allow you to drive the car before getting it tuned and 2) be much easier for the tuner to do his thing. PLUS, you are talking about all this induction through the stock MAF? Can you say restriction? Get a Pro-M or an SCT Big Air (if they still make those), calibrated for the injector you intend to use.
Make sure you put a good set of plugs (gapped to about .035 to .040 or so, you can play with this), also some new wires. Is that Novi 2000 self contained or do you have to punch the oil pan? Be aware that punching the pan while it's installed is pretty risky. I've done it but you have to be very careful and use plenty of grease on the NPT tap, going slowly and removing frequently to clean and reapply grease.
Don’t need lines at 8 psi . I’d recommend an adjustable fpr ..... most blower or turbo cars they like to set the base at 42 psi . But again just my opinionAlright - working through the list:
- Novi 2k Tuner Kit
- 340 in tank fuel pump (do I need new fuel lines? I know it was said a fuel pressure regulator is not needed) - any brand recommendations for stock tank compatible one?
- 42lb Injectors and MAF to support
- MSD 6A BTM
- Tune (stock ECU - no Megasquirt)
- boost gauge
- Air / Fuel Ratio gauge
- no to HYD rollers
- no need for beehives
How is that looking?
Power pipe is the way to go ....... you usually see more pressure with it too.You’re a legend - thank you.
Any thought on the Anderson Power Pipe?
Power pipe is the way to go ....... you usually see more pressure with it too.
Plenty of experience with them trust me . No only have I had to cut a hole but later on a scottrod panel hole to pass it through . It’s not bad to open the hole . Painters tape . Mark it . Air saw . No big deal . On a non intercooled kit you’d want the freshest air you can get in the blower tooPowerpipe is ok but know that you will have to cut out the inner fender a bit. Can get sloppy if you dont do it right. You can slice some rubber hose down the middle and use it for a liner. Personally I would just install what the blower comes with if it comes with anything on the tuner kits, you can always do stuff like this later.
There is some clearancing you have to do to the bracket. If you have a die grinder you can do this pretty easy. Or a dremel will work but slower. Any reason for the 3G? Big stereo or underdrive pulleys?
Ive been experiencing low volt at idle on the car. Checked battery and it was still good. Checked all the cables - all good - clean connections. Gauge seems fine. Assuming the stock alt is starting to find so figure while replacing might as well upgrade. Thought about underdrive but most here discouraged.
What is the voltage at idle?
It’ll wobble down to 8-10 range, and then once going climbs up a bit.
Still needs the larger brackets and mounting though?Fyi you can get 3g self exciting alternators for less than 150$... mine is 200amp
Yea starting to think about now with the SC pathGotcha, 3G is fine but its just extra hassle for not a lot more anything unless you have a need for it. Just throw a reman
In there.
I thought you guys in Cali were banned from working on your own cars?
Get the Aeromotive Stealth 340 LPH, replaces your stock in-tank pump, no need for new lines. You will probably be looking at 30# injectors for your setup, 42#'s would be fine but probably not needed. You can always throw the FMU in there for now and run the disc calibrated for whatever injector you get. For example, I have a 347 with Vortech SC-trim and I put the FMU in with a 4:1 disc. I did this so I could drive the car around before I got it tuned, also installed the vortech included MSD 6BTM, which you can dial in ignition retard per /lb of boost. SO since this is a brand new engine and blower, I cranked it all the way up, set base timing at 10 degrees and let her rip. Down the road when I put 500 miles or so on it I'll take it in and have it tuned as I have an Anderson PMS installed to my A9L computer.
I would personally recommend a calibrated MAF for whatever injector you choose, it will 1) allow you to drive the car before getting it tuned and 2) be much easier for the tuner to do his thing. PLUS, you are talking about all this induction through the stock MAF? Can you say restriction? Get a Pro-M or an SCT Big Air (if they still make those), calibrated for the injector you intend to use.
Make sure you put a good set of plugs (gapped to about .035 to .040 or so, you can play with this), also some new wires. Is that Novi 2000 self contained or do you have to punch the oil pan? Be aware that punching the pan while it's installed is pretty risky. I've done it but you have to be very careful and use plenty of grease on the NPT tap, going slowly and removing frequently to clean and reapply grease.
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