For wiring harness retainers does anyone have a recommendation for and assorted set?
The factory ford type are a tad expensive. This car is so from from "correct" I don't need oem retainers. Just something that snaps around the harness and has the stabs to push into the holes in the body and frame.
Maybe I'll stop by harbor freight on the way home and see what they have. I've seen automotive conduit there before so I'll at least grab some of that.
The factory ford type are a tad expensive. This car is so from from "correct" I don't need oem retainers. Just something that snaps around the harness and has the stabs to push into the holes in the body and frame.
Maybe I'll stop by harbor freight on the way home and see what they have. I've seen automotive conduit there before so I'll at least grab some of that.
Look around on the driver side cockpit for a fog-light switch. Run a multimeter to ground and test the wires.
Those are healthy looking wires and weather connector. The colors don't line up with the fog-light colors but someone my have preferred that weather connector.
Whomever did the wiring for that car (though it's causing you headache now) was done by someone that appears to at least know how to pin connectors.
The problems that you are having are because the wires were run through the hold and THEN the connectors were pinned. They won't go through the holes because they never did in the first place.
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For my wire tuck I did the same thing....de- pinned the connectors and put the through the hole behind the drivers strut tower.
That actually is the correct way to do it instead of cutting and soldering wires. I'm not a huge fan of the wires passing into the strut area but there are a lot worse ways they could be run.
The Lx harnesses do have provisions for fog lights. All you have to do is pull the headlight switch out...install fog light/ headlight switch and hook the fog light harness into a plug that looks very similar to the one you took pics of. There's a two wire plug sitting behind the headlight switch.
That actually is the correct way to do it instead of cutting and soldering wires. I'm not a huge fan of the wires passing into the strut area but there are a lot worse ways they could be run.
The Lx harnesses do have provisions for fog lights. All you have to do is pull the headlight switch out...install fog light/ headlight switch and hook the fog light harness into a plug that looks very similar to the one you took pics of. There's a two wire plug sitting behind the headlight switch.
Well I'm undoing this crap, that's all I can say.
The dudes who did this can't be all that up on Foxbody wiring. They had the hood light plug (2 wire) jammed into the master cylinder low fluid sensor port which is 3 wires. They bent the friggin tabs over and everything! The correct brake indicator plug was found dangling above the fender skirt with the rest of the muffed up tuck job
The dudes who did this can't be all that up on Foxbody wiring. They had the hood light plug (2 wire) jammed into the master cylinder low fluid sensor port which is 3 wires. They bent the friggin tabs over and everything! The correct brake indicator plug was found dangling above the fender skirt with the rest of the muffed up tuck job
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That sucks. Nothing like having to redo some crap some dummy did. I don't blame you at all.
On my car I ran through the harness with a DVOM checking all the wires and connectors. Even when the v8 harness came out of my running GT I still checked everything. Nothing like having an electrical gremlin
On my car I ran through the harness with a DVOM checking all the wires and connectors. Even when the v8 harness came out of my running GT I still checked everything. Nothing like having an electrical gremlin
Sounds like he got in over his head.
I'm watching these wiring threads with some interest. The majority of my Fox wiring is stock... never been messed with but it's... old.
I would love to go in there and cut and yank and put all fresh chit in there. I just KNOW that when I do, I'll find more than enough reason to tear the whole car apart.
I'm itching to do it all. I need to find a shop and get a lift.
I have these GM style panel clips. I'll trim part off the top side them tape them to the wire loom to secure in place on the final positioning. I also have a few salvaged original retainers I can use.
As for the mystery harness plug, I've discovered some things. It's wiring feeds through the same place as the wiring for the washer fluid bottle. There's a clip on the frame where it gets secured and it just stops there with its cap. As you can see in my previous pictures, the cap actually has contacts which I assume completes circuits when plugged in. So, I wonder what would happen if you tried to operate the car with the cap removed. What function might be disabled? I verified this component and its installation on my black 1992 LX which has its factory wiring intact. This component is on that car too and installed as I have describe here. Could this thing be some sort of testing port used during factory assembly? Maybe allowing them to test the electrical systems prior to installing the battery? Here are some pictures of the factory routing and installed position of this harness plug.
As for the mystery harness plug, I've discovered some things. It's wiring feeds through the same place as the wiring for the washer fluid bottle. There's a clip on the frame where it gets secured and it just stops there with its cap. As you can see in my previous pictures, the cap actually has contacts which I assume completes circuits when plugged in. So, I wonder what would happen if you tried to operate the car with the cap removed. What function might be disabled? I verified this component and its installation on my black 1992 LX which has its factory wiring intact. This component is on that car too and installed as I have describe here. Could this thing be some sort of testing port used during factory assembly? Maybe allowing them to test the electrical systems prior to installing the battery? Here are some pictures of the factory routing and installed position of this harness plug.
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I'm not a big fan of crimp connectors ever since I bought a car that had them everywhere. An improperly crimped connector can cause you to chase your tail for days. A lot of manufacturers only allow crimp connectors on wiring. We use the non insulated ones at work and heat shrink them.
Yeah, if the right size crimp is used, the wire insulation is stripped the proper amount, wire pushed fully in to connector and crimped good and tight with the proper tool, you're good to go. Shrink wrap is icing on the cake. But I admit, there's many ways to mess it up if you're not careful.
I've found a cut wire. This is the only cut wire I've found in this operation "un-tuck". It comes out from the harness bundle in the area under the ignition cool. It's a red wire with a blue stripe. Size is 16 or 18 AWG.
Can anyone tell me what it's for?
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That's the starter wire for the starter solenoid little post. How has that car been starting ? Does it have a newer mini starter with the solenoid on the starter body ?
To verify see if it gets power when the key is turned to start.....but that is the color of that wire...red with blue stripe....and that's where it comes from right by the coil.
To verify see if it gets power when the key is turned to start.....but that is the color of that wire...red with blue stripe....and that's where it comes from right by the coil.
Bingo! You got it right! Actually, I had figured it out the moment before I checked back here to see you confirm. The starter looks like the same type that is on my 92 hatch. So I assume its stock type because I know my 92 starter is stock. The solenoid on this project has a different wire connected to it. I traced it through the firewall and it goes up the steering column towards the ignition switch. My guess is when they did the wire tuck the starter wire wasn't long enough to reach the solenoid. So instead of extending it, they ran a new wire.
I'm not ready to crank the engine yet since so many things are happening at once on this car. So, when I'm ready to fire it up I'll check the original starter wire and maybe hook it back up if it tests good.
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They may have ran another wire when they swapped it to AOD....getting rid of the clutch switch. That switch plug should have a jumper installed in it. Without that the car wouldn't start from the key.
Boy isn't wiring behind someone fun....?
Well I actually do find joy in it...after a couple minutes of cussing and scratching my head.
I've got a breakout box that can really help making sure all the wiring and the computer are doing what they are supposed to. I've also got an OTC ford efi scanner for our cars.
You're in Maryland so I'm sure I could make a trip to help out if needed.
Boy isn't wiring behind someone fun....?
Well I actually do find joy in it...after a couple minutes of cussing and scratching my head.
I've got a breakout box that can really help making sure all the wiring and the computer are doing what they are supposed to. I've also got an OTC ford efi scanner for our cars.
You're in Maryland so I'm sure I could make a trip to help out if needed.