Each person will have to choose which way to delete the air pump. Delete kit, short belt, whatever. You can search for all the options. And the vaccum lines are self explanitory to block off. Just cap them or stick a screw down in them. The back of the heads is another decision. Buy the right bolts, or cut the pipe up and flip the collection chambers over. I also think the intake block off is pretty easy to figure out. You need a piece of metal with two holes in it for the bolts. Make it or buy it, it's up to you. But if you have questions just ask.
Capping the bung is another big debate on how to properly do it. Here is my method. Use it if you like, or do it the other ways.
I plan to replace my stock manifolds when I pull the engine. In the mean time I wanted a CHEAP solution to plugging the EGR bung without tearing up my stock manifold. I have a very limited amount of tools, and I'm not a mechanic.
First step for capping the bung nut. I bought a Freeze plug #555-061 for 59 cents.
BEFORE inserting the plug, I used a punch and hammer to notch the rim of the plug. Then I lightly hammered it into place. I used an old rachet handle in the cap and hammerd the head of the rachet. Try to keep the plug level to get it to seal correctly.
If you want some added security you can fill the nut with JB Weld up to the threads and let it set overnight. I am sure the JB Weld will last as before using the freeze plug idea, I previously had JB Weld in the pipe with no metal backing and it lasted 1.5 years with constant pressure and heat before finally cracking and creating a leak.
Here is what the finished install will look like.
Now for the sensor....
To keep your Check Engine Light from showing you will need to keep your EGR sensor attached to the harness AND push the plunger in half way.
I've heard of some Zip Tieing the plunger, but I tried to find a better way. First find a Toy Vending machine lid. Don't laugh yet, you will be amazed at how well the small ones fit.
And a hose clamp.
At first I just rigged the sensor with a hose clamp like this:
The above method is adjustable. You can tighten down the hose clamp where you want to make sure you get it half way.
As you can see over the course of 1.5 years the pressure from the plunger and the heat got to the lid.
Time for reinforcements!
In this last pic I added a little Plastic Weld in the top and placed a penny on top of it. Plastic Weld (VERSACHEM CHEMICALS - PLASTIC WELD) is like $4 and is very useful, stinky, but very useful stuff.
Capping the bung is another big debate on how to properly do it. Here is my method. Use it if you like, or do it the other ways.
I plan to replace my stock manifolds when I pull the engine. In the mean time I wanted a CHEAP solution to plugging the EGR bung without tearing up my stock manifold. I have a very limited amount of tools, and I'm not a mechanic.
First step for capping the bung nut. I bought a Freeze plug #555-061 for 59 cents.
BEFORE inserting the plug, I used a punch and hammer to notch the rim of the plug. Then I lightly hammered it into place. I used an old rachet handle in the cap and hammerd the head of the rachet. Try to keep the plug level to get it to seal correctly.
If you want some added security you can fill the nut with JB Weld up to the threads and let it set overnight. I am sure the JB Weld will last as before using the freeze plug idea, I previously had JB Weld in the pipe with no metal backing and it lasted 1.5 years with constant pressure and heat before finally cracking and creating a leak.
Here is what the finished install will look like.
Now for the sensor....
To keep your Check Engine Light from showing you will need to keep your EGR sensor attached to the harness AND push the plunger in half way.
I've heard of some Zip Tieing the plunger, but I tried to find a better way. First find a Toy Vending machine lid. Don't laugh yet, you will be amazed at how well the small ones fit.
And a hose clamp.
At first I just rigged the sensor with a hose clamp like this:
The above method is adjustable. You can tighten down the hose clamp where you want to make sure you get it half way.
As you can see over the course of 1.5 years the pressure from the plunger and the heat got to the lid.
In this last pic I added a little Plastic Weld in the top and placed a penny on top of it. Plastic Weld (VERSACHEM CHEMICALS - PLASTIC WELD) is like $4 and is very useful, stinky, but very useful stuff.
