Based on logs, the voltage doesnt change that much. 14,5v to 14,4v and the voltmeter needle drops a bit in the dash, that's all.I think you need to check what happens to the voltage when you turn on the blower.
Don't pull or disconnect your old cable, yet. Just run this additional cable for testing. Hell, you could use household Romex cable for this test if you wanted or jumper cables clipped end-to-end.
Could be your feed cable connections are poor, a connector swage could be bad, or even a damaged portion.
Unless you're road course racing, I'd put the battery back in the engine bay. The effect of having it in the hatch on a street light to street light car is negligible.
I do have a tester and SOH and SOC were at 99%. Its a 2 years old red top optima battery.My opinion: don't add any new wires, grounds or anything,
How was the battery 'load tested'?
Voltage drop has been done and wrote in that thread.If the grounds or battery cables are of concern you can do a voltage drop test to make sure they are in good shape.
Make sense but my question is, how to troubleshoot that? LolMy “grounds” logic is, we’re searching for a significant load change issue and a lack of proper grounds can be hiding the diagnosing the problem. We know that electrical systems are lazy and will find a grounding path if the primary one is missing/defective, etc. That’s all I was asserting.
3G alternator is there since the past 10 years.Was there an issue before you added the 3G alternator?
I've never liked sticking a battery in the back of a street car.
Too much cable, more connections, more chances for stuff to go wrong.
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