Preventitive Maintenance = Performance Mod?

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

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#1

• May 21, 2006

• #1

The answer is YES!

I finally got around to replacing my other hub bearing assembly (you may have seen the thread a couple months ago where I did one side).

Now, with new hub bearing assemblies on both sides up front the car feels faster. When the car is up on jacks I can give the front wheel a spin and it just keeps going and going.

So preventitive maintenance = decreased rolling resistance = better performance in this case

 

BennyBlown2v

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Carmel, INdiana

May 21, 2006

#2

• May 21, 2006

• #2

Preventive Maintenance by adding performance parts = performance mod Congrats on the free-wheelin though! I need to replace those bearings pretty soon, especially on the passenger side.

Edit: No write-up!??!?

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Yeah, I did a write up on the first side with pics. It is pretty easy to do.

 

rebelleader

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Homer Glen, Il

May 21, 2006

#4

• May 21, 2006

• #4

McTeague said:

....with new hub bearing assemblies on both sides up front....

Click to expand...

How much do they run?

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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#5

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I got all parts from the Ford parts counter:
Hub bearing assembly - $74
Retaining nut - $14 (expensive nut)
Dust cap - $6

The old nut and dust cap CANNOT be re-used.

Also, the retaining nut is 36mm and needs 250 ft/pounds of torque

 

rebelleader

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#6

• May 21, 2006

• #6

McTeague said:

Also, the retaining nut is 36mm and needs 250 ft/pounds of torque

Click to expand...

Damn, my wrench only goes up to 150ft/lb.

Hub bearing assembly - $74
Retaining nut - $14 (expensive nut)
Dust cap - $6

Click to expand...

Was this for one side or both?

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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#7

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Those prices are for one of each part, one side.

I have no idea if I got 250 ft/pounds. I got it as tight as I could with a 3' breaker bar

 

BennyBlown2v

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#8

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You can safely re-use the nut if the nylon isn't to degraded. As long as it still "bites' when you start to torque it, it'll be fine.

 

jasonh_86

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May 20, 2005

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#9

• May 21, 2006

• #9

rebelleader said:

Damn, my wrench only goes up to 150ft/lb.

Click to expand...

THat's when you break the Torque Multiplier out

That's what we have to do up at the shop, when some bigass bolts call for 728 ft/lbs

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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#10

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BennyDaBall said:

You can safely re-use the nut if the nylon isn't to degraded. As long as it still "bites' when you start to torque it, it'll be fine.

Click to expand...

There is NO nylon, you are thinking of something other than the 36mm giant specialized nut assembly that I am referring to that holds your front wheel on the car. Use a new retainer nut when replacing hub bearing assembly.

 

squares98

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May 21, 2006

#11

• May 21, 2006

• #11

My front wheels hardly turn when I do it by hand, guess its time for new hubs

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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#12

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Well, I had just done a brake job so the pads were away from the rotors. They usually do not spin that free once the pads are seated in...

If you hear grinding when spinning the wheel, have in and out play in the wheel when you grab it, or are missing the dust covers you may need new hub bearing assemblies.

 

PULMEOVR

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May 21, 2006

#13

• May 21, 2006

• #13

Kilgore, no offense, but I always thought you didn't know much at all about wrenching? Did you teach yourself all of this?

Matt

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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#14

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I work on my Mustang all the time

 

PULMEOVR

I need a bigger E-Penis.

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#15

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Hm?? I guess I have you confused with someone else then.

 

BennyBlown2v

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#16

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• #16

McTeague said:

There is NO nylon, you are thinking of something other than the 36mm giant specialized nut assembly that I am referring to that holds your front wheel on the car. Use a new retainer nut when replacing hub bearing assembly.

Click to expand...

Ah, correct - my bad. Thought you were talking about the spindle-balljoint nut for some reason

 

DTNODYA

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May 22, 2006

#17

• May 22, 2006

• #17

Kil is the guru of preventitive maintenance!! I've taken his advise many times with success.

I think I'm gonna be needing some soon but that's a lot of money for some metal balls. I read somewhere how somebody took them apart (i know, supposedly impossible or whatever) and just re-lubed em. If anyone else on this forum has taken them apart and successfully re-lubed/re-installed them please post how you did it. Such a stupid design that forces one to spend money ...