I just installed a 10 psi kit on a 2004 GT. The kit came with 42lb injectors a 255 fuel pump and a diablo sport predator tuner. The car doesn't want to run. Run for about 5 to 6 seconds before it dies. We played with the tuner alittle bit but couldnt get it to run. If anybody knows how to get it to run that would be great thank. At least till I can get a proper tune for it 
Procharger system
- Thread starter slvrstang46
- Start date
blackink00
I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
nwapache
New Member
When it does run, is it spitting fuel out of the exhaust? Definitely sounds like something isn't connected....go through all of your plumbing and make sure your connections are solid, clamps are tightened down, and your maf is plugged in....
the98stang
Active Member
Get rid of that 255lph return fuel pump those cheap pricks gave you and get yorself a proper SVT Focus non-return pump. That should help out with tuning and you won't need to worry about burning out the fuel pump in the first 6-months.
the98stang said:also check the fuel pressure, make sure she's getting enough fuel.
With as much soot as the car is spitting and as black as we made his shiny tail pipes, I think it's getting more than enough fuel. As for the vacuum, can someone show us where they tee'd their vacuum line from, just so we make sure we got that covered right? It chugs and sounds like a boat when it does run, it ran good for a bit then went downhill. Definitely sound like a vacuum problem? the way the car ran and smelled I figured it for running pig rich.
hotmustang331
Active Member
I dont understand why the "return" pumps wont work well on our cars. You guys have seen how our pump/basket is setup right? The pump is connected to a dual hat style cennection...it feeds excess fuel back into the basket at a fairly slow rate to keep the gas constantly circulating. Thats what I can gather from how its setup...maybe it doesnt return enough, but im not sure.
I know there have been reported failures, but so have the focus pumps...too much heat IMO is what causes the problem. People put them in the stock GT basket and it pretty much drains it and that will cause the pump to get hot. Also durring DDing when you get below 1/2 tank, its even harder to get fuel into the basket as it has to enter through the bottom (very limited). Thats my personal theory though.
Do as the others say...check for leaks, and if you HAVE to, load the stock program in and be VERY easy on the gas as you limp it to a dyno tuner.
I know there have been reported failures, but so have the focus pumps...too much heat IMO is what causes the problem. People put them in the stock GT basket and it pretty much drains it and that will cause the pump to get hot. Also durring DDing when you get below 1/2 tank, its even harder to get fuel into the basket as it has to enter through the bottom (very limited). Thats my personal theory though.
Do as the others say...check for leaks, and if you HAVE to, load the stock program in and be VERY easy on the gas as you limp it to a dyno tuner.
We tried the stock tune and it still ran like ass... Soon as anyone can, post up a pic of where they have their vacuum line Tee'd so we can see if we borked that part up. I think the only vacuum line we messed with in anyway was tee'ing one for the surge valve. When it did run it seriously sounded and felt like a cammed race car of some sorts.... it was rooough...would the way we did his valve cover vent hoses be a problem? Guy at ATI said to connect passenger side and driver side via a TEE and then run that to the crank relief inlet on the supercharger inlet tube.... then we read in the directions to just run the drivers side over to the inlet and leave the passengers side alone...
could his MAF sensor be acting up? a buddy told me his car ran like that when his MAF was acting up, would idle super rough and he had to keep his foot on the gas ot keep it from dying, soon as he fixed the problem it ran perfect.... could we have accidently unplugged it and caused it to act stupid?
could his MAF sensor be acting up? a buddy told me his car ran like that when his MAF was acting up, would idle super rough and he had to keep his foot on the gas ot keep it from dying, soon as he fixed the problem it ran perfect.... could we have accidently unplugged it and caused it to act stupid?
nwapache
New Member
yes, it could definitely be the MAF....the problem you are having is NOT TUNE....SOMETHING IS NOT CONNECTED....RECHECK ALL HOSES AND CLAMPS<CHECK ALL THE CONNECTIONS TO THE Throttle body, make sure nothing has popped off or is loose. I had the problem when my discharge pipe connecter popped off. AMBO had the problem when MAF wasn't connected.
Trust me, just keep looking, you'll find it.
The T fitting is fine as long as its connected at all 3 points.
Trust me, just keep looking, you'll find it.
The T fitting is fine as long as its connected at all 3 points.
nwapache
New Member
If you absolutely cannot find the problem, do not drive the car anywhere, you might as well pour 5 gallons of gas over your engine if you do.
I promise you, its a connection somewhere.....
I promise you, its a connection somewhere.....
hotmustang331 said:
The standard large capacity return style pumps are powered by a constant and consistent voltage level in order to maintain maximum flow and pressure, under wide open capacity at all times in order to provide a constant and steady fuel supply to the regulator. Their voltage and flow rates remain the same at all times, since excess fuel is managed by re-routing it back into the tank.
Non-return style pumps are variable voltage units and supply fuel based on whatever is read by the electronic fuel pressure sensor and sent by the ECU in order to keep a constant and required supply. Under different loads, fuel demand varies and voltage to the pump will increase and decrease accordingly to demand.
Long story short, the non-return style pumps are built to perform at varying rates, where the return units are not. The constant on and off cycling of a return style pump when trying to fulfill the demands of the non return style system not only shortens its life span, but since the return style pumps are built to perform under wide open, high voltage, high capacity levels, they're less efficient and more inconsistent when under variable voltage conditions. Their pulse width is tougher to tune for than a variable voltage units as a result.
hmmm only teeing i remember when i installed my blower was the tee from the bypass valve to the fuelrail on the driver side
dumping a lot of fuel like that sounds to me like maf or corrupted tune data
i have no idea why they keep shipping that 255 crap with 99+ car blower kits
i wanted the kb 1.7 kit but reason i when with the mongoose kit from mph was because tims tunes are dead on and that will save you tons of money in the long run
nothing worse then spending hours doing an install to have the dam thing not work
dumping a lot of fuel like that sounds to me like maf or corrupted tune data
i have no idea why they keep shipping that 255 crap with 99+ car blower kits
i wanted the kb 1.7 kit but reason i when with the mongoose kit from mph was because tims tunes are dead on and that will save you tons of money in the long run
nothing worse then spending hours doing an install to have the dam thing not work
slvrstang46 said:
I know this sounds kinda retarded but make sure we put the maf facing the right direction when we installed it...we had been at it a while that day already and maybe somehow we put it in there 'backwards'..... wouldnt make sense that it did in fact idle adn run smooth for what, 5 or 6 minutes right after you first started it up?
What Maf are you using ????
Where is the Maf located ???
Do you have any pic's of the install ???
Mine wouldnt stay running the day I first installed my Procharger and new Maf combo, it turned out to be Maf Related, I put the stock Maf back on and all was well
Later when I switched to another maf (the 90mm L Maf) AGAIN it wouldnt stay running. At that point I switched from Diablo to SCT Tuning and all was well from that point on.
The thing is this, SCT already has tunes set up for Stang + Procharger + 42's + 90mm Maf, so all the tuner needs do is tweak it from there (but he has a great starting point). With Diablo there is no off the shelf tune for this combo so it's built from head to toe, (doesn's always work for every stang).
It sounds to me you like you have a Surging Issue (VERY DANGEROUS)
and maybe a Maf issue too.
I first started mine WITHOUT the proper Vac source for the Surge Valve and had all kinds of trouble "simular to what your experiencing".
I also had a Maf issue at first and thats why I ask where yours is and which one your using ? As soon as you convert a Standard Maf to a "Blow Through", you will need to idle tune the vehicle by turning the Maf . My Stang to date will run TOTALLY DIFFERANT, and NOT RUN AT ALL, if the Maf is turned in the wrong position. AMOF mine will throw up to 3 differant codes when turned in the wrong position. (Two of those codes are Bank 1 and Bank 2 TOO RICH, this will screw you up big time)
My Stang currently runs perfect and throws no codes, but even the slightest turn of the Maf in either direction WILL CHANGE EVERYTHING.
As for the Maf you can get a Brand New one here for 75.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90MM...ryZ33557QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I have a couple I'm selling cheap but someone already bought them, sorry...
As for Vacum we have differant years and I dont know if this pic will help
BUT You want MANIFOLD VAC, and if possible NOT SHARED. Mine is shared but it runs perfect and strong and proper where it is.
Also your maf CAN NOT be too close to a turn
If yours is still under the hood notice the position of mine, I've ran 3 diff Maf setups so far and each works the best between the 3:00 and 6:00 position
Where is the Maf located ???
Do you have any pic's of the install ???
Mine wouldnt stay running the day I first installed my Procharger and new Maf combo, it turned out to be Maf Related, I put the stock Maf back on and all was well
Later when I switched to another maf (the 90mm L Maf) AGAIN it wouldnt stay running. At that point I switched from Diablo to SCT Tuning and all was well from that point on.
The thing is this, SCT already has tunes set up for Stang + Procharger + 42's + 90mm Maf, so all the tuner needs do is tweak it from there (but he has a great starting point). With Diablo there is no off the shelf tune for this combo so it's built from head to toe, (doesn's always work for every stang).
It sounds to me you like you have a Surging Issue (VERY DANGEROUS)
and maybe a Maf issue too.
I first started mine WITHOUT the proper Vac source for the Surge Valve and had all kinds of trouble "simular to what your experiencing".
I also had a Maf issue at first and thats why I ask where yours is and which one your using ? As soon as you convert a Standard Maf to a "Blow Through", you will need to idle tune the vehicle by turning the Maf . My Stang to date will run TOTALLY DIFFERANT, and NOT RUN AT ALL, if the Maf is turned in the wrong position. AMOF mine will throw up to 3 differant codes when turned in the wrong position. (Two of those codes are Bank 1 and Bank 2 TOO RICH, this will screw you up big time)
My Stang currently runs perfect and throws no codes, but even the slightest turn of the Maf in either direction WILL CHANGE EVERYTHING.
As for the Maf you can get a Brand New one here for 75.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90MM...ryZ33557QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I have a couple I'm selling cheap but someone already bought them, sorry...
As for Vacum we have differant years and I dont know if this pic will help
BUT You want MANIFOLD VAC, and if possible NOT SHARED. Mine is shared but it runs perfect and strong and proper where it is.
Also your maf CAN NOT be too close to a turn
If yours is still under the hood notice the position of mine, I've ran 3 diff Maf setups so far and each works the best between the 3:00 and 6:00 position
He's running the stock MAF, and it's located down in the fender well, and maybe it's at a weird angle or something, but we definitely didnt T his vacuum for the surge valve right there and it might not be a bad idea if he looked into switching it to that spot(if its there on his year). Would an improper vac source on the surge valve cause the crazy issues he's seeing? If so we definitely gotta try another spot because maybe we just didn't put it in a very good spot.
I guess its trial and error on a good Maf "angle"? We had it turned for easiest access for the plug because its a bit further away than it used to be but maybe he's gonna hafta rotate it some and see if it changes, and definitely look at his vacuum source.
I guess its trial and error on a good Maf "angle"? We had it turned for easiest access for the plug because its a bit further away than it used to be but maybe he's gonna hafta rotate it some and see if it changes, and definitely look at his vacuum source.
Here are some update pictures. We redid the PCV setup(wasn't necessary how we had it) and changed the vacuum T to where Rob99 has his. The car still stumbles and stutters, here's a shot of a plug that was completely clean before running all of 2 minutes.
View attachment 443422
and the engine bay, anyone see anything we somehow missed?
Would it make any difference/be safe if we were to put the stock injectors back in? The car wouldn't be driven hard obviously, until it's safely tuned. Also wanting to get the new MAF, but do you all think the car might run any different if it weren't getting saturated with fuel the instant its started up?
View attachment 443422
and the engine bay, anyone see anything we somehow missed?
Would it make any difference/be safe if we were to put the stock injectors back in? The car wouldn't be driven hard obviously, until it's safely tuned. Also wanting to get the new MAF, but do you all think the car might run any different if it weren't getting saturated with fuel the instant its started up?
