Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install

[Noobz347]

The general rule


If you’re running a mass-air Fox EEC-IV or any system that still treats air-charge temperature as a minor trim and doesn’t directly tie it to spark load modeling — keeping the IAT pre-compressor is simplest and stable.


If you’re running a modern speed-density ECU or a tuner that scales spark directly with IAT (Coyote, Terminator X, Holley, etc.), the correct, safest, and more accurate location is after the intercooler or as close to the throttle body as possible.

 

[from6to8]

The general rule


If you’re running a mass-air Fox EEC-IV or any system that still treats air-charge temperature as a minor trim and doesn’t directly tie it to spark load modeling — keeping the IAT pre-compressor is simplest and stable.


If you’re running a modern speed-density ECU or a tuner that scales spark directly with IAT (Coyote, Terminator X, Holley, etc.), the correct, safest, and more accurate location is after the intercooler or as close to the throttle body as possible.

pre compressor?

btw I'm confirming with sCt as soon as they hurry up and find out (on chat hold as they are finding out and no they don't seem to do any calls on the phone lmao and smh) but finding out rather the sct's even have the built in IAT. Reading this one post though and specifically post # 6:

https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/sct-ba-3000-connector-question.774078/ ,

I believe I'll just leave my IAT like it is separate and put it in the discharge elbow before the tb.....

 

[Noobz347]

Compressor = Supercharger

 

[from6to8]

Nope. Just use the factory Lightning pigtail and use this diagram:

The two wires on the outside are for the internal IAT (intake air temperature sensor). You can use these two wires if you want your tuner to use this IAT vs. the one on the intake.

Aero I have done all kind of research today and even chatted with SCT and called Don at Lasota racing and even reading up on some other sites it doesn't seem that the Sct meters have a built in IAT sensor as the diagram you attached with the outside 2 wires would be for. I am going to however run my IAT as constructed and have it separate anyway though as that seems to be the better placement for the blower.

 

[AeroCoupe]

That diagram of for stock Ford MAF’s. If the SCT MAF has the same connector then you simply do not use the outside wires. This isn’t complicated.

 

[from6to8]

That diagram of for stock Ford MAF’s. If the SCT MAF has the same connector then you simply do not use the outside wires. This isn’t complicated.

I understand what you said and were saying but I'm talking about when you mentioned if I wasn't or was going to use the built in IAT in the meter. Then again I guess you meant the lightning meter which have the built in IAT. At the point of not going to go with the lightning and using the Sct that's where the confusion of what you were trying to say about the built in IAT lmao.....

 

[WhiteCobra95]

I've looked around and can't find the transfer function for the BA2600. I even emailed them directly last year when they were on sale at LMR and they wouldn't provide it. They said that it's only available through a tuner who uses the SCT software. If you know where I can find it, please post it or IM me. I would also be interested in the IAT resistance curve to compare with the factory IAT sensor. Having the correct transfer functions to calibrate these sensors is critical. They would probably sell a lot more if they would include it with the part. I also like the idea of having one connector for both sensors, as long as the air temp can be reported correctly.

 

[from6to8]

I've looked around and can't find the transfer function for the BA2600. I even emailed them directly last year when they were on sale at LMR and they wouldn't provide it. They said that it's only available through a tuner who uses the SCT software. If you know where I can find it, please post it or IM me. I would also be interested in the IAT resistance curve to compare with the factory IAT sensor. Having the correct transfer functions to calibrate these sensors is critical. They would probably sell a lot more if they would include it with the part. I also like the idea of having one connector for both sensors, as long as the air temp can be reported correctly.

I hate that with SCT they don't have a contact number where you can call and get that information and you actually have to chat with them and even before you chat you got to put in your name email address and a few more questions they ask you before you can get to an agent.

I got to put that on the list to ask them about that but if they don't come with them when you buy them I don't know how they would be able to provide that information to me. Now I need to call my tuner tomorrow and ask him if that's going to be an issue. I have a tune now with the car but of course I'm adding a vortec so I would need him to I would send the chip to him so that he can give me a startup tune and then send it back so I need to find out if that's going to be an issue without having the transfer functions.

From what I gathered the SCT meters do not have the built-in IAT but the lightning meters do so in that case I'm definitely using or reusing my IAT.

Yeah I'm going to try to see if I can get that information from SCT themselves I wouldn't expect LMR to be able to get it or have it.

 

[from6to8]

That diagram of for stock Ford MAF’s. If the SCT MAF has the same connector then you simply do not use the outside wires. This isn’t complicated.

Ok to another point. For my 95 that I'm doing the 331 for and no I don't need another thread for it at least right now lol, but the 96-01 meter you said to get for it, is that a 96-01 mustang meter and is it an 80mm? I'm assuming you said or meant 96-01 mustang and not a truck 96-01?

The reason I asked is because the guy at the mustang salvage yard has some mustang one's but didn't know what size they were, but they are $55 bucks. I know a guy selling an 80 mm Pro M for $200 so if the one's he have are 80, it's a no brainer lol...

on edit: I have on my notes a 75 since I have a 70 tb and a quick google search says should be 75 76 mm....

 

[from6to8]

another google search took me to the coral where someone with the name D Brune has your avatar lol.....

 

[AeroCoupe]

And here is the shocker...that is me. I was on the Corral for years before I found this place and since then don't post much on that hell hole.

Back to the 80mm Mustang MAF. I would only use a Mustang MAF as I know tuners have that transfer function and I have no idea of the F150 is the same or even desirable. All I can tell you is that making 460 fwhp with the 331 in the Coupe is not pegging the 80mm. It was struggling for air but that was my mistake with the adapter I used and had since been corrected along with reworking the CAI, new fuel system, and getting the 42 lb/hr Lightning injectors cleaned. I have not had the car retuned as I just cannot justify the cost with the MSPNP Pro waiting to be installed. That and I do not want to push the stock block any further. Odds are I will pull the motor to put the rotating assembly in a new block before I swap to the MSPNP. Keep hoping BluePrint will start selling their four bolt main block.

Back to your ordeal, if you are goin got keep that 331 NA then run a 80mm or 90mm OEM MAF and move on. If you are going to put a super charger on it then run the SCT and stop thinking about this.

 

[from6to8]

And here is the shocker...that is me. I was on the Corral for years before I found this place and since then don't post much on that hell hole.

Back to the 80mm Mustang MAF. I would only use a Mustang MAF as I know tuners have that transfer function and I have no idea of the F150 is the same or even desirable. All I can tell you is that making 460 fwhp with the 331 in the Coupe is not pegging the 80mm. It was struggling for air but that was my mistake with the adapter I used and had since been corrected along with reworking the CAI, new fuel system, and getting the 42 lb/hr Lightning injectors cleaned. I have not had the car retuned as I just cannot justify the cost with the MSPNP Pro waiting to be installed. That and I do not want to push the stock block any further. Odds are I will pull the motor to put the rotating assembly in a new block before I swap to the MSPNP. Keep hoping BluePrint will start selling their four bolt main block.

Back to your ordeal, if you are goin got keep that 331 NA then run a 80mm or 90mm OEM MAF and move on. If you are going to put a super charger on it then run the SCT and stop thinking about this.

I thought I said that the question for this meter is for the 95 lol. Remember I have two cars well three with a 04 Cobra but the two in question are the 331 for the 95 naturally aspirated and the 94 worth 195,000 miles that I'm going to put the vortec on.

The bill for the 95 I'm just going to go ahead and keep it natural aspirated right now as planned I'm not going to take her with it but my main question was the I have in my notes the 96 to 01 m and are you saying is that an 80 or is it a 75 76? My throttle body is a 70 so I guess 75 or 76 if that's what it is should work as well....

I thought that blueprint actually does sell well I know they sell a crate engine with the four-bolt main but I don't know if they just when I was talking to Scott in North Carolina at extreme Mustangs he has bought several crate engines with the four bolt but he I think he said he's not sure if they sell just the block.

 

[AeroCoupe]

So on a NA car you just need the 96-2001 GT MAF, my car is proof of this all day long. BluePrint is not selling just the block as I keep asking them every 3 months or so. I will wear them down...at some point because I am not paying for a Dart block on a sub 500 fwhp motor. BluePrint has said (quoted at SEMA) that their block is good to 700 fwhp.

 

[from6to8]

So on a NA car you just need the 96-2001 GT MAF, my car is proof of this all day long. BluePrint is not selling just the block as I keep asking them every 3 months or so. I will wear them down...at some point because I am not paying for a Dart block on a sub 500 fwhp motor. BluePrint has said (quoted at SEMA) that their block is good to 700 fwhp.

oh gotcha and just not seeing this lol I probably didn't get or overlooked the notification over the weekend. Is that 96-01 a 75,76, or 80? That meter would support up to what rwhp?

On to another subject of the Heater tube on my 95 and not sure the Fox's have the same setup, but I ran across a thread where you responded to a guy with a pic you found in 2024. So I , let me copy and paste as I was going to reply there: Just thinking about where I might relocate my ECT sensor on my 95 with the V3 install because the heater tube will have to be trimmed 3 1/4 ". I will still be running heat of course so in this pic right here will the vehicle still have heat with the pump capped there and the sensor in that spot of the lower? I can probably put the ECT on the other side of the lowe intake as there's a sensor in that spot now just as a plug, is that ok if I had to relocate the ECT there ?

 

[AeroCoupe]

Man you have beat the MAF subject to death in multiple threads. The 2001 MAF I have on my car is an 80mm. The level of hp it will support is dependent on NA or boosted.

I have read that a very rough estimate is that 1 lb/min of air flow is equal to 10 hp at the crank. I found where someone showed the 2001 GT 80mm MAF is maxed out at 47.5 lb/min so 475 fwhp. The engine in my car dyno'd at just north of 460 fwhp on an engine dyno so mine would be just under maxed out.

 

[from6to8]

Man you have beat the MAF subject to death in multiple threads. The 2001 MAF I have on my car is an 80mm. The level of hp it will support is dependent on NA or boosted.

I have read that a very rough estimate is that 1 lb/min of air flow is equal to 10 hp at the crank. I found where someone showed the 2001 GT 80mm MAF is maxed out at 47.5 lb/min so 475 fwhp. The engine in my car dyno'd at just north of 460 fwhp on an engine dyno so mine would be just under maxed out.

Hey man if i am doing something I'll make sure my I's are dotted and my t's are crossed LMFAO ‍.

What about the other part of the question I asked about the picture and thing you talked about in regards to the relocation of the ECT sensor, the water pump hose to heater tube, ect

My performer 2 intake has looks like about four different spots that are plugged off. I'm going to call Edelbrock tomorrow to confirm what all of those spots are for exactly. I'm sure the one that has a sensor in there right now that is just to plug the hole might be a spot that if I had to relocate it I should be able to. Looking at my other car tonight because the tube have to be cut 3 1/4 inches and that tube goes to the water pump. The other tube which runs parallel to it houses the ECT sensor. The ECT needs to be relocated as well and might be able to go in the same spot that it's tube screws into of the lower intake. It might be the same threads I believe and looking at your pic.

 

[from6to8]

And I don't know why I'm not getting notifications the last few times I've gotten replies maybe I need to uncheck the receive email notifications then recheck it

 

[Noobz347]

And I don't know why I'm not getting notifications the last few times I've gotten replies maybe I need to uncheck the receive email notifications then recheck it

Notifications are different than email alerts. Notifications appear [in forum] where your screen name and avatar appears at the top.

 

[from6to8]

Notifications are different than email alerts. Notifications appear [in forum] where your screen name and avatar appears at the top.

I would get both well actually yeah I would get both. So I would get email notifications as to somebody replied and then also when I came to the forum I would see a notification up in the top corner. So I was not getting the or am not getting the emails. Maybe I need to restart my phone I just cleared cache.

Yeah basically what I want to make sure is that my heater still functions. It appears that the water pump will still function to the heater core using the 5/8 inch hose that comes with the supercharger kit. As to the other end of the heater tube that houses the ECT sensor would need to be capped off i guess. Whether I put the ECT straight down in the location where the tube went or in the lower intake as my performer too has several spots that looks like could be a functional spot for it, I want to make sure I put it in a location where it's going to read effectively.

My main question was to Aerocoupe and the photo he found when he replied to that last guys threat in 2024 was if the water pump is capped where it normally would go to the heater core I guess you would have no heat in that situation?

 

[from6to8]

Well I just tried a bunch of different things and the last thing I did was restart the phone and it's working now. Prior to restarting the phone I still didn't get or wasn't seeing the email notifications notifications on my phone. Maybe it could have been some kind of glitch between it clearing on Android or whatever. Looks like it's working now at least when I went to my email I saw a notification. I'll see if I start getting them back to the notification bar