Progress Thread Progress Thread kinda stalled- looking to get it back going again!
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So, in what little spare time there has been, I’ve been at this floor pan. I’m not at all proud of what the welds look like (some spots ok), but I’m confident it is much stronger than the rusted cracked floor that was there before. A little more welding and illThere are a few spots where the penetration was a little weak, so may hit them again from underneath, since it’s accessible. Then on to clean up and seam sealer.
My stitch welds on the seams start out nice, but as I build up and connect, they get higher. I should probably turn heat up slightly once I’m building up, but I guess that all comes with experience.
Anyway, I have two small areas that didn’t quite match once it was permanently fit in. I’ll cut some small pieces and use my copper backer to get that done.
I’ll also weld the seam on my patch toward the rear of the pan. It’s plug welded solid, but just to clean up the edge, I’ll weld it in (more practice if nothing else).
Here’s the mess (good thing it will be hidden) but I guess it’s not horrible for my first job like this!
My stitch welds on the seams start out nice, but as I build up and connect, they get higher. I should probably turn heat up slightly once I’m building up, but I guess that all comes with experience.
Anyway, I have two small areas that didn’t quite match once it was permanently fit in. I’ll cut some small pieces and use my copper backer to get that done.
I’ll also weld the seam on my patch toward the rear of the pan. It’s plug welded solid, but just to clean up the edge, I’ll weld it in (more practice if nothing else).
Here’s the mess (good thing it will be hidden) but I guess it’s not horrible for my first job like this!
I have very little welding experience but I would say that you need to tighten up the gaps between the two panels for better/easier welds
Agreed. Most of my gaps were pretty good. The flex in the trans tunnel, plus when I pulled it tight to the rocker, it gave a few trouble spots.
In hindsight, I should have just cut it to overlap and plug welded all around. But I was trying to avoid as many overlap seams as I could.
Did you stitch weld the whole thing? What kind of wire were you using. I'm just curious as this is a skill that I am currently working on as well. I've only got flux core at the moment, but my welder is equipped to use gas shielding as well. I plan on getting bottle at some point.
i bought a bottle and used the c25. I believe the wire is .023.
There was some sticker shock when I bought the first full bottle at a little over $200. Just went through that and my first full up was $50, but the bottle is mine, and now that I’m not practicing much (does it look likeI practiced) it will last quite a while.
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exactly my thought.... so I went with the more difficult butt joints. It’s solid..... just doesn’t look real pretty!
Same area I had to replace on my floor pan, and I'm a hack. When I cut mine out I used a smaller hole so there was about 3/4 - 1" where the new pan sat on top of the old one. I then drilled holes for plug welds all around that and then I welded it all closed after. I fully covered everything in weld through primer, then POR-15, and seam sealed it... there's no way it's going to rust out in there.
Being a novice welder, knowing what I know now, I would recommend this route.
But I’m pretty stubborn and tell myself I can do it like the professionals do it.... so I gave it a shot.
For sure your pan will be easier to make look factory than mine, especially if you grind down the bead and paint it all underneath. I didn't really care that much, and you can see the seam from under my car, but it's rock solid and there's no more rust so I'm happy.
#1 I grew up around a body shop and I know what a hack job is. I have seen enough lap joint junk that not only looks like ass but is a perfect place for rust to form. There are of course exceptions, bird_dog went the extra mile to stitch up both sides of the overlap sealing it up, twice the work but it ensured a good seal and will likely not rust from the gunk the gets trapped and did not leave a ragged edge.
#2 the only welding I can show you that I have done recently are wear pads on L arms for my wheel lift, the ends rub the ground when articulating closed and need changing after many years of sliding on the asphalt and concrete. I can post pics later.
It is a little easier to weld two pieces 1/4 inch metal than a thin piece like a floor pan or quarter panel.
I have welded in patch panels and done recessed antennas but was done with a torch and a coat hanger, before mig and tig welding was popular, and after dressing with a grinder could hardly be seen. I have not done any work like that in a very long time. On purpose.
I just offered some advice and my opinion on lap joints. I know you would butt weld that floor pan in because your crap don't look like crap.
calm down..I was simply stating " He who throws the first stone" kinda stuff.
I now know why they call them butt joints..... cause mine look like a$$. 
Yeah I know what you meant! I can't wait to see what you say about my crummy engine compartment after I stick all that shiny stuff in there
Just make sure you let Mike know when you "Stab" the "Dizzy", he lives for that kind of stuff...
Yeah I know what you meant! I can't wait to see what you say about my crummy engine compartment after I stick all that shiny stuff in there
Now that I’ve somewhat figured out this welder (I’m pretty sure I will not be falling through this floor), maybe next winter I’ll start filling all these holes in the engine compartment. I’m with CMA on the clean, clean, clean under the hood!
So I got this dented can from Eastwood, and some POR15 in gray from Amazon for the next step.
If this gray is close to factory, I’ll be getting more to do the whole underside of the car!
If this gray is close to factory, I’ll be getting more to do the whole underside of the car!
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