Project Resto - Supercharged 1992 GT 'Vert

STI_MECE · Feb 22, 2019

Getting closer to D day. I am starting to look at what to expect when tearing this thing down. Haven't tested compression yet or anything like that but that will be the very first thing that happens before anything gets taken apart.

Here is the list of other house keeping items I want to tackle.

1. Try to rid the rust in the engine bay to the best of my ability. He doesn't want to pull the engine. This is going to be an absolute pain as he wants to just hit the rust spots with black paint in order to slow the rusting down..... I'm still bugging him on this.
2. Clean up the wiring in the engine bay
3. Maybe relocate the MSD ignition box somewhere else
4. If I do number 3, I'd like to get a proper air intake system that utilizes the hope the MSD ignition box is blocking.

With this Vortech system is this something that is dynoed back in the hay day? Or did this thing typically run off an "off the self tune" and aftermarket MAFs? I am not sure how sophisticated everything was back then. For boosted applications I follow, if anything before the catalytic changes, you need a tune.

I ask that because if we do change the air intake system...will it need to be dynoed?

This car was made the same year I was born lol sorry if some of these questions seem dumb

General karthief · Feb 22, 2019

It would be dumb if you didn't ask.

Boostedpimp · Feb 22, 2019

STI_MECE said:
Here is the list of other house keeping items I want to tackle.

1. Try to rid the rust in the engine bay to the best of my ability. He doesn't want to pull the engine. This is going to be an absolute pain as he wants to just hit the rust spots with black paint in order to slow the rusting down..... I'm still bugging him on this.
2. Clean up the wiring in the engine bay
3. Maybe relocate the MSD ignition box somewhere else
4. If I do number 3, I'd like to get a proper air intake system that utilizes the hope the MSD ignition box is blocking.

I would wait to see what your compression test tells you.. and if it were me I would just let him deal with the rust how he wants to. I say that because if you see rust that means there is more.. more then you can see and if you dig into it and want to do it right then this car won't be moving for a long long time.

STI_MECE said:
With this Vortech system is this something that is dynoed back in the hay day? Or did this thing typically run off an "off the self tune" and aftermarket MAFs? I am not sure how sophisticated everything was back then. For boosted applications I follow, if anything before the catalytic changes, you need a tune.

If your car has 24lb injectors then it should have something called an FMU which compensates for not having large enough injectors. It should also have a boost a pump which is a inline fuel pump to help supply enough fuel in conjunction with the in tank pump. Both are band aids and although they work many including myself do not like them and generally would go with proper sized injectors and pump. The car should be tuned and most likely was. Pull the ecm and see if there is a chip plugged into the end but if the car starts, idles and doesn't break up then i'd just drive it the way it is for now then approach this when ready.

STI_MECE said:
I ask that because if we do change the air intake system...will it need to be dynoed?

I would just clean the MAF and replace the filter at this point until you figure out if your going with larger injectors and tune. If you are then ask the tuner what he suggestion as far as size.

stanglx2002 · Feb 22, 2019

Since your car is running MAF it is pretty flexible in taking on new modifications without needing a tune. I would say add the new charge pipe (intake) to the blower and see how it runs.

STI_MECE · Apr 7, 2019

Well the mustang has been moved over into our new home. And now we are counting down the days before we start wrenching on it.

I think our idea is to just order a new set or heads, along with injectors, air intake car pipe etc...

But first we were going to just pull it apart and bag and label everything with pictures.

Do I have the right idea?

CarMichael Angelo · Apr 7, 2019

STI_MECE said:
Well the mustang has been moved over into our new home. And now we are counting down the days before we start wrenching on it.

I think our idea is to just order a new set or heads, along with injectors, air intake car pipe etc...

But first we were going to just pull it apart and bag and label everything with pictures.

Do I have the right idea?

No,.throw the bolts in a big box, and pile the rest of the junk in the trunk.

STI_MECE · May 21, 2019

So the Journey has begun....did a compression test. Cylinder 2 & 4 were between 60-80 PSI (i cant remember if that is the unit of measurement)

It had autolites for spark plugs . Started jumping straight in and taking stuff apart. set the 1st cylinder at TDC, then lined the harmonic balancer with the timing mark. Have not pulled the distributor yet.

Kind of getting worried about removing the headers to get access to the lower portion of the head bolts.....the header bolts are rusted....

and if there are any bolts that are going through water jackets, are going to be crusted. Might have to invest in a boly-inductor, i can only image trying to pull a sheared head bolt out. Not sure how much PB blaster would work getting down the threads, but I will pre soak this stuff for a few days before its touched.

Olivethefet · May 21, 2019

Take lots of pictures of how everything is before taking everything apart. Take lots of pics as you tear it down. Take pics of stuff you dont think you need to take pictures of. Take lots and lots of pictures! I'm not a mechanic either and some of the least interesting pics have been the ones I need to see how that thing was mounted before I jacked with it. Looks like a fun project!

Blown88GT · May 21, 2019

Keep in mind...in 1992 a tune was something you hummed along with. Keeping it from going lean at WOT was all that mattered. At this point, don't worry about the supercharger & no WOT even when you get it running. If PB Blaster doesn't work, use heat (torch). I used the simple ones with the propane cylinder when the air impact wouldn't budge some bolts. Didn't take much heat & they spun right out.

STI_MECE · May 30, 2019

Thanks for the advice everyone.

As of last night, we pulled the heads off. Cylinder 2 and 4 had tears on the gasket. But I am still kind of interested in how a antifreeze in the cylinder. The year happened on the top side the of cylinder bore.

I will get the pictures from father in law and pass them along.

One concerning item on the short block is that there was a defect on cylinder #4 wall. It appeared to be scratch on the wall. You could not feel it with your bare finger. My uneducated guess is because of the antifreeze in that cylinder whenever we were cranking it to get cylinder 1 at TDC, there was rust between the cylinder seal and wall and it just gouged it when cranking.

So now that we have this out, I think we are going to replace the heater core.

We pulled the pipes that go to the heater core and it was extremely nasty. This ties back into my first prognosis with the mustang ac on and heat up , it was not very warm. Could this core be clogged? It was also not taking all the anti freeze that it needed like some antifreeze was stuck and was not coming out. And we tried very hard for weeks to burp it prior to the heads gasket blowing.

Also, it's really sad to pull that engine apart. NEVER EVER PUT REGULAR WATER IN THE COOLING SYSTEM. ONLY DISTILLED. I would really love to clean all the water jackets on the short block but I got no way of doing that.

This block has so much potential to run really well. It's just hampered because it say for so long in fluids that it shouldn't be sitting in.

Now time to throw stuff in the shopping cart.

STI_MECE · May 30, 2019

Also would anyone advise against wrapping the headers? They are rusted lol I feel like wrapping them now would clean it up and let the engine run more efficiently.

STI_MECE · May 30, 2019

Pictures attached. that scratch looks really bad

Olivethefet · May 30, 2019

Thats a bummer man.

The heater core is a chore, but if it looks that bad I would probably swap it out. They are not expensive, but a pain in the butt to get in and out. It would really suck if you get everything back together and the heat core explodes on your maiden voyage around the block! I recently changed my heater core and AC evaporator. There are a few good Youtube vids documenting what you need to do.

ultrabluevert · May 30, 2019

STI_MECE said:
Also would anyone advise against wrapping the headers? They are rusted lol I feel like wrapping them now would clean it up and let the engine run more efficiently.

I've got mine wrapped and won't do it again. Get the rust off and use high temp paint or get em powder coated. If/when you have to pull the trans out you will itch like crazy. It bugs me for up to a week afterwards. This is assuming you have long tubes. Like others I'd suggest the more modern option of putting a bigger pump in tank and tuning it with a chip or even a microsquirt ECU. I have a HCI 306 with an intercooled S trim feeding it with a 340lph pump and 60 lb injectors. A9M was pulled and replaced with a Microsquirt ECU and MAP sensor.

STI_MECE · Jun 18, 2019

wanting to drop the headers....which are long tube...did not realize how much of a chore this would be. still debating if we want to remove them at this point. We want them out to have clearance for the torque wrench for the heads.

CarMichael Angelo · Jun 18, 2019

It looks to me like the cylinder has rust through pin holes at the top of the bore. How long has water been in that bore?

STI_MECE · Jun 20, 2019

Couple months. I bought some Emory sand paper 3k grit and removed the rust from the cylinder walls.

So now it's time to order parts....going to switch to studs.

We are not going to remove the headers don't want to deal with removing power steering for it.

Want to get a new intake setup but we need to replace the orange intake duct as well, along with the MAF, MAF housing and the old K&N filter.

Going to replace the injectors. And hopefully can convince father in law to replace every sending unit and sensor, nut, bolt, we took off with fresh hard ware.

We cleaned the threads out on the short block.

Also where are the galley plugs to drain the coolant in the block? Already drained radiator, upper and lower.

STI_MECE · Jun 20, 2019

Oh also, injectors are orange. So 19lbs lol.

And my grandfather in law says they had issues with fuel and they have had issues with it before. What that exactly means, I am not sure, he can't really remember anymore than that.

STI_MECE · Jun 20, 2019

Okay maybe they are 24LBS...it's got a blue top, orange bottom.

Logic tells me the size is identified by the color on the top of the injector

General karthief · Jun 20, 2019

Why head studs? I would think it makes installing the head in the car difficult. I would look into sending the injectors off to get cleaned and new o rings,
the fuel thing may be the ethanol that is in todays fuel, it gathers moisture from the atmosphere when left stagnant for long periods.
clean fuel tank and blow out the lines.

Project Resto - Supercharged 1992 GT 'Vert

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