Project Resto - Supercharged 1992 GT 'Vert

So close....its been a struggle making progress on this thing. Gaskets keep delaying us more and more.

Now we are 1 gasket short due to the EGR Spacer.

And stupid me forgot to take a picture of the gasket I have currently, and the one I need to replaced.

I also didn't measure the diameter of the throttle body. Not sure what size it is or details on the EGR spacer. Sigh....I cant order parts now while im out of town :(
 
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It finally lives! Kind of.

Started it, back fired. Obvious sign if timing not begin set. Now I had to kind rush this but I found the compression stroke of cylinder 1 and put it in the the mark where we have been considering it as TDC. You see all the machine marks then there is one mark that is painted yellow.

I reset the rotor in the distributor to cylinder 1 and I triple checked before I fired it up that it was set to fire on number 1 cylinder and it was.

So it cranked, did it's classic 3k rev then died. Then I made adjustments both CW and CCW and when j kept going CW the only way to keep it going was throttle but it was very rough and sputtering.

The battery was connected to a 200amp engine starter.

Gunn's start by getting a new battery. I may not have been at dead on TDC. But I figured j had enough adjustment to get it right with the distributor.

Also I did tried removing the spout connector on all this and no dice
 
yeah we already have a timing light. My gut tells me something else is up....I was pretty close to TDC on compression, it should have started and it did, but something else is killing it.

It has around 30 lbs of fuel pressure if i recall correctly.
 
It lives. It was the throttle body it wasn't tightened down.

Setting the timing, I have it on 14 degrees right now. Father in law cent remember if he pumped 93 octane in it for now.

It runs well. But it's got a loppy idle. It's at 640 650-660 670 after it's warmed up.
 
Our accordion style duct is collapsing when going WOT.

Need to find a replacement. :(

It runs on 87 right now Gunna see what happens on 9
 

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First drive cruise was absolutely awesome. I can't believe we did it. I couldn't have done this without the help of yalls guidance.

I am still flushing the coolant, I have slot 15-16 gallons Worth of nasty water and it's still coming out. I had to switch to tap water because I didn't have enough distilled water to flush it clean. After the tap water comes out clear. I'll flush that with distilled water with the same amount of water that was dirty to make sure its out.

I wish I could just put a hose on it at the bottom and just dump the water up top.

There are a few kinks to work out. Father in law has a fresh batch of ignition parts coming in, dist. Cap, starter solenoid, and 9mil wires.

I ordered a Spectre 4inch flexible duct on Amazon and hopefully that will replace the crappy vortech one. I still have no solution for replacing the shop-vac sized air filter.

Gunna flush the brake fluid, replace rear differential fluid and a good nice wash.

Want to put a wideband and oil temperature gauge in. Need to find a something that can sit on the dash

I want to remove the a pillar gauges looks a bit ricy.

Now the fun stuff begins.

Thanks for the help again everyone! You guys rock. Through all the bad crap that this mustang was put through it is now in better hand's.
 

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This weekend the differential and transmission are going to get some fresh fluid, along with oil change, and new FPR 9mil wires.

Need to play with the timing some more. There is after-fire out the exhaust when coming off the throttle, just like popping like its running rich. SO i am going to back it off alittle bit and see what happens, I guess its okay to get some but not much.

And need to figure out my idle issue. I think it has a cam, but its a cam and a rough idle. It idles between 640-710ish rpm but it will blips about 20 rpm, but that window moves within the 640 and 710ish
 
well what is funny is that whenever I intially reset the timing i set it back to where it was marked on the HB. Which to my amazement was set at 30 degrees of initial timing, or whatever the mark is right before TBC..... that is when i dropped it down to 14.

So yes I did retard it...you could say. I set it at 14 after I verified I was at TDC on the compression stroke and the HB lined up pretty spot on with that it was at zero IIRC. And then i just started at 10 and advanced till the idle sounded good. And this was done with the spout connector out.
 
Get yourself a cheap vacuum gauge from a local parts store....if you don't have one already. It's one of the most useful tools in my tool box. The gauge will be marked for different symptoms ie. timing issues, valve issues, and such. Vacuum will tell you how healthy or well your engine is running or point you in the right direction.

It's been a while since I visited this thread. Have you cleaned and tightened the salt and pepper connectors ?
 
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I have not cleaned those connections. I did check my TPS position and I was at 1 and I set it to 0.95

I got a vacuum gauge I'll hook it up tomorrow. I
set the initial timing to 12 degrees. And I have the boost retard gauge set to 2. I honestly don't see what any changes are coming from adjusting the boost retard other than the fact that I followed what is in the manual for V3. I really don't notice any difference at WOT. It's probably just me.

It ran better at 12 degrees base timing, it got rid of that weird at stutter at 2k rpms but idk if that's because of the timing or because I ran it up to 100 mph in 5th gear.

There is zero umph after 4th gear which is insanely short too. 5th gear is definitely economy.

This was all done after put FPR 9mm wireset on, and I put some engine flush down the hatch then three some Castrol edge performance in 10w-30 with an oversized motorcraft filter.

I definitely lost alot of power retarding the timing but driveability is better.

And none of those noises I had coming out the exhaust were missfire, it's normal. As I ran 12 and it did the same thing. Guess it's nature of the beast.
 
There is a metal mesh filter on the back of the intake manifold....I didnt know what it was for. Turns out a PCV valve goes there, I wonder if it was disposed of due to the supercharger .

What I find interesting is the fact there is no discharge for any air really. I think the only one is the valve on the bottom of the plenum that goes to the evap canister I believe.

If the stang is actually missing a PCV then that is where the idle issue is coming from.
 
They ditched it because of the supercharger. They didn't want to risk running boost backwards through it.

Under boost the low pressure side of supercharger pulls vapor out of the block and reburns it. At idle and cruise the pcv valve pulls vapor and feeds it into the intake to be burned.

The pcv being missing won't tend to cause a serious driving issue...and could be tuned around. The way it is it's vented to atmosphere. Probably makes the car a little fumed up. I run the pcv with a catch can and a one way check valve on my turbo car. The other side from the valve cover runs through a breather separator tank and to my turbo inlet. My car is speed density so no MAF.

A bunch of companies will void the warranty on turbo and supercharger systems if the engine isn't open to atmosphere. That's weird to me but I guess people plumb stuff wrong and cause issues.

I used a cheap harbor freight air compressor oil/air separator at first. It worked great. The junk yard is a good place to find boost capable check valves in the 3/8 size needed ( I used them for my vacuum pump ). I ordered one of these.

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Having the valve covers open to atmosphere isn't a bad thing either. It makes it almost impossible for pressure to build inside the block. I like having the pcv working to keep the fumes down under the hood....that's also why my valve covers are plumbed the way they are. Under acceleration the turbo inlet helps pull vapors out of the block through the breather tank....at idle the vapors are pulled through the pcv.
 
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Thanks for the insight. I think the plumbing both VC's is an efficent and smart idea.

When you say low pressure side I am guessing you mean the inlet side of the supercharger? I dont see how the supercharger can pull anything out of the engine since it doesnt have a nipple on the inlet side to even set up something like that, which is where im list. I would like to see what this kit came with but I can not dig up anything.

I have been calling & emailing vortech to see if they can pull the install guide on this for the last two weeks but I got no response.

The only tidbits i took away from the V3 manual and applied to my V1 was setting the timing to close to stock timing, and set the boost retard knob to the degree on how much boost you run which I am running 5.
 
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Well I believe my right of passage to being the caretaker of this mustang will be earned today.

It's time to replace the heater core, and this mustang has AC. I'm Gunna see if my wife can record this. If it comes out okay we will put it on the interwebs.
 
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I just read this whole thing. Initially I thought this was going to be another project that just fell off the map. Good job , nice to see it runs. In the beginning you never put pictures of the car , and I was happy to see it was a excellent candidate for some time and money. Now go easy on it. Foxes are prone to break . Sometimes a little . Sometimes real bad. Now do a group of nice pictures to show off your hard work.
 
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Well I gotta keep you guys interested some how

So I'm trying to remove the fuel pressure gauge from the interior. Since we ditched the sending unit from engine bay.

They used vampire clips for all this crap.

I'm pretty comfortable with wiring and setting up electrical stuff with relays....but this is interesting

Some how the fuel pressure gauge and mechanical boost gauge are tied together somehow.



PSA for the love and all that is holy never use vampire clips. If you have to revert back to stock or you want to change it later you can not reverse the damage done by clipping into the harness which is what they done.

They tapped into a constant 12v to the interior light.

That wire that tapped into the OEM harness had gotten damaged (the sheath was ripped in one section) so I went to go and removed the damaged sections out and solder a new wire in but then I got to thinking I might as well remove the (fuel pressure) gauge since its not working. Well I got here lol I've never seen gauges Daisy chained like this. Probably won't make any sense to anyone just wanted to share where I'm at.

Heater core is back in. Didn't have to disconnect the AC. 3 hours alone to fitting the core back in though.
 

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