Replacing front suspension, what to get?

[91LX_5L]

I put in Tokico Illuminas, MM CC Plates, MM Coil Over Kit and WOW does it handle wayyy better.

 

[1slow95]

Actually the QA1 has two mounting spots. I used the closest one foward. It will drop the car down a bit. The front of my car is slammed. I'm only like 2 inches from the fender. I'm only using FRPP C springs which is 1 inch front, 7/8th in the back.

Really? I didn't see that in the pics I found, and it's not listed on their website...Got any pics of it?

 

[nmcgrawj]

http://www.paracing.com

I did a TON of research and it all pointed to going with PA. Jason's service is top notch, as well as his parts. I only got to run the car one time with the K member before I hurt it, but it was immediately worth a 2 tenth reduction in ET. I will NEVER own another mustang without a tubular K member, I'd own one for the clearance alone.

What setup did u get on that k-member paul? What are spring perches? And does the drop rack just lower the motor? Do u need to get anything else done for the crossmember or anything if the motor is lower?

 

[ES Stangin]

I'm not an expert, but I don't see a real need for going overkill with all MM stuff. I've been hanging around on the corner-carvers.com forums and reading up a lot. I was planning on buying the MM Starter Box, but at my current stage I realized that the Bullitt kit with MM c/c plates and Full-Length subframes would be a better starting point for an occasional autocrosser.

I would pick the best value the money, especially since your car will not hit the track that often.

 

[1slow95]

I put in Tokico Illuminas, MM CC Plates, MM Coil Over Kit and WOW does it handle wayyy better.

What spring rates did you get and how is the ride?

 

[nmcgrawj]

I put in Tokico Illuminas, MM CC Plates, MM Coil Over Kit and WOW does it handle wayyy better.

Does that work with the stock a-arms?

 

[illwood]

I was told to be cautious about tubular front control arms on a daily driver. I know that roads in MA can be seriously crappy and if you hit a pothole hard with the tubular front control arms, you could bend them pretty easily.

My plan for front suspension includes a QA1 tubular K-member, CC plates, Steeda STB (already have), Tokico Illuminas, and '03 Cobra front control arms.

 

[nmcgrawj]

I was told to be cautious about tubular front control arms on a daily driver. I know that roads in MA can be seriously crappy and if you hit a pothole hard with the tubular front control arms, you could bend them pretty easily.

My plan for front suspension includes a QA1 tubular K-member, CC plates, Steeda STB (already have), Tokico Illuminas, and '03 Cobra front control arms.

What do the 03 cobra arms have over ours?

 

[VibrantRedGT]

See the part where the motor mounts will bolt up? It has two long sections. I used the front one. I don't see how the tranny brace would bolt up if the back slot was used.

Stock heavy bulky ass thing. Know how much crap I found in that thing? Sockets, drill bits, screwdrivers, spark plug......(which all added weight)

K member, Stange adjustable struts and modified stock A arms.

 

[nmcgrawj]

How hard is it to install a k-member?

 

[VibrantRedGT]

With the motor removed we had the stock K out and QA1 installed in about 10 minutes. The stock A-Arms had to modified with a grinder so that really was the longest part for me. Those switching to tubular A arms should be about another 2 minutes to install.

Here is a tip. If using the stock motor mounts you must grind off the tabs at the bottom of them. I forgot and had to pull the motor back up and grind them down.

 

[nmcgrawj]

With the motor removed we had the stock K out and QA1 installed in about 10 minutes. The stock A-Arms had to modified with a grinder so that really was the longest part for me. Those switching to tubular A arms should be about another 2 minutes to install.

Here is a tip. If using the stock motor mounts you must grind off the tabs at the bottom of them. I forgot and had to pull the motor back up and grind them down.

Sounds pretty damn EASY! I think im gonna go with the PAracing one that Paul posted...it says it can be used with stock a-arms. I plan on getting the 03 cobras or maybe tubular later on. But i would rather do the k-member now while the motor is out. The other stuff isnt a big must right now and can wait.

Thanks for the heads up on the motor mounts.

 

[nmcgrawj]

Actually the QA1 has two mounting spots. I used the closest one foward. It will drop the car down a bit. The front of my car is slammed. I'm only like 2 inches from the fender. I'm only using FRPP C springs which is 1 inch front, 7/8th in the back.

I'll get a better pic of the front tomorrow.

So the k-member is responsible for it being so low? Those two "slots" for the motor mounts?

Is that a QA1 thing or will that happen with all tubular k-members?

I found this site, http://www.thefordsource.com/store/motorsports/qa1_1.htm, the QA1 k-member is $219.

I think im gonna go with either the PA piece or the QA1. I just dont know what a "drop rack" is and what exactly are spring perches.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

my setup as of now has:

eibach sportlines
kyb agx shocks/struts (8 way adjustable real, 4 way adjustable front) much less expensive than the tokikos and konis btw
steeda 3 bolt c/c plates

soon to come:

steeda subframes
qa1 k-member
03 cobra a-arms
steeda bumpsteer kit
steeda upper and lower control arms
steeda hd swaybars

should make a kickass combo.....

as far as the reason i want the k-member, my 1-5/8" longtubes were a hassle going in. when we put in joe's 1-3/8" longtubes with the qa1 k-member, they went in like clockwork. the added clearance alone is worth the cost of the part.

 

[1slow95]

See the part where the motor mounts will bolt up? It has two long sections. I used the front one. I don't see how the tranny brace would bolt up if the back slot was used.

That's not what Im talking about, but it doesn't matter anyways because I just found the Griggs k-member only has two mounting holes on the 96+ parts. This is what I was talking about, see where the control arm bolts to the k-member, there's two mounting holes there.

nmcgrawj, Im not sure about the drop rack, but the spring perches are what you need if you're not installing coil overs.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Ok, now I see what your talking about. Since I reused my stock A arms I'm not familiar with that.

I do know that my car was never that low before so the K did bring the nose down some. There is no way that I would want it any lower then it is. I already have to crawl over speed bumps with the drop and LT headers.

nmcgrawj, the 03 A arms will still have to be modified to fit (grinder action). The PA unit is nice. I was originally going with that one but my buddy ordered one and it was beat to hell. Not all the PA ones are like that but it scared me enough. I remember Paul had an install issue with his. The AJE is also a great K. Most of them if used with regular spings will come with spring perches so you can use stock A arms (or 03 Cobra's). Just need to specify that when ordering it. The $219 price is excellent for that QA1. I paid close to that.

 

[nmcgrawj]

nmcgrawj, the 03 A arms will still have to be modified to fit (grinder action). The PA unit is nice. I was originally going with that one but my buddy ordered one and it was beat to hell. Not all the PA ones are like that but it scared me enough. I remember Paul had an install issue with his. The AJE is also a great K. Most of them if used with regular spings will come with spring perches so you can use stock A arms (or 03 Cobra's). Just need to specify that when ordering it. The $219 price is excellent for that QA1. I paid close to that.

Do you have to modify stock or cobra A arms for every k-member or just the Qa1?

I see this one doesnt have the two optional slots like yours does...have they changed the design or something?

I guess i got some reading to do...it seems hard to decide which one is the best one.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

The 03 Cobra A arms will need to be modified for sure. There is a steel lip over the bushings it will need to be grind down about a half inch. This will need to be done with every K member that says "will work with stock A arms" (QA1, AJE, D&D, PA, etc.). My Harbour Freight $12 grinder took care of it in about 10 minutes per side.

 

[91LX_5L]

I got 350# and it rides awesome, hudge improvement and its still a nice ride, its deff perfect for my street stang and could still hit autoX once and a while if i really wated. I wouldnt go over 375# on a street car IMO.

 

[1slow95]

All this research is fun stuff! It looks like the Griggs k-member moves the control arms 1" forward, which requires modifications to the fender/bumper for clearance. I didn't want to spend $600+ on a k member anyways.

Check this out about the QA1, http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=574477&highlight=qa1*. Looks like a good setup for what I want. That's probably what Im gonna end up going with unless I find some extra cash for the MM kit.

Also found out these specs on the QA1,

I called QA1 not too long ago, looking for specs.
half inch increase in wheelbase and half inch increase in wheel length.
He said if I was using their A-arms also it would increase both another .25 inch. So .75 and .75