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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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I'm being serious, I really don't know and have always wondered. Why couldn't I paint the car black with spray paint, say rust-oleum, wet sand it like real PPG auto paint, then get real actual auto clear coat and buff that to a mirror finish? It seems to me the black is like a picture behind glass in a frame. Dirty glass dirty picture, clean the glass, picture looks brand new.

That's called rattle bombing. I've actually seen some pretty darn good rattle bomb jobs in the past, especially in black. It's definitely not going to look like PPG though.

Kurt
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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I'm being serious, I really don't know and have always wondered. Why couldn't I paint the car black with spray paint, say rust-oleum, wet sand it like real PPG auto paint, then get real actual auto clear coat and buff that to a mirror finish? It seems to me the black is like a picture behind glass in a frame. Dirty glass dirty picture, clean the glass, picture looks brand new.
Ok, before I answer this in detail, cause it’ll take away some of my valuable drinking time in order to do so......and I don’t mean to sound condescending or arrogant, Would you like a real answer to this post?
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Just google "rattle bomb car paint job," and select images. Tell you everything you need to know.

Kurt
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Orange peel and other textures is a problem with can spraying that large of a surface. A neighbor used to almost yearly brush paint his early 60’s Econoline with enamel from the hardware store. It was never really shiny, but it did not rust out.
 
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Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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Orange peel snd other textures is a problem with can spraying that large of a surface. A neighbor used to almost yearly brush paint his early 60’s Econoline with enamel from the hardware store. It was never really shiny, but it did not rust out.
Yeah.............
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Orange peel snd other textures is a problem with can spraying that large of a surface. A neighbor used to almost yearly brush paint his early 60’s Econoline with enamel from the hardware store. It was never really shiny, but it did not rust out.

That's just the start of it. You have to go to your rattle bomb supplier, and make sure you order a brand new whole case, and then check the manufacture run code on every can to ensure they are all the same run. If they all didn't come out of the same mix, they are all going to be a slightly different color. I have a friend who used to do rattle bomb jobs on rat rods, where a lack luster paint job is deliberate, and even he made sure the cans were all filled from the same manufacture run.

Kurt
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Kurt, I was keeping the answer simple on purpose. Wet sanding a rattle bomb job is a pain. Getting it smooth enough to look good with clear coat is a very trying project with trying to get the temperature, humidity and dry time optimal in your home garage.

My 87 Cougar peeled the clear coat, starting at the front, while I was in grad school. So I had fun painting flames. I left it until I had a better paying job than a being a GTA and a part-time counter pro. Anyway, I gave up on sanding and resprayed the sanded area so it all had the same texture.
Eventually, the body man cussed me out about how thick the paint was. It turned out the car had been a rebuilder and already had three costs of paint.
Thanks for the batch code reminder. I am not brush or rolling a steel or Masonite house door again. Krylon or Rustoleum work very well there.

That's just the start of it. You have to go to your rattle bomb supplier, and make sure you order a brand new whole case, and then check the manufacture run code on every can to ensure they are all the same run. If they all didn't come out of the same mix, they are all going to be a slightly different color. I have a friend who used to do rattle bomb jobs on rat rods, where a lack luster paint job is deliberate, and even he made sure the cans were all filled from the same manufacture run.

Kurt
 

603mustangs

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603mustangs

Advanced Member
Sep 19, 2016
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New Hampshire
Kurt, I was keeping the answer simple on purpose. Wet sanding a rattle bomb job is a pain. Getting it smooth enough to look good with clear coat is a very trying project with trying to get the temperature, humidity and dry time optimal in your home garage.

My 87 Cougar peeled the clear coat, starting at the front, while I was in grad school. So I had fun painting flames. I left it until I had a better paying job than a being a GTA and a part-time counter pro. Anyway, I gave up on sanding and resprayed the sanded area so it all had the same texture.
Eventually, the body man cussed me out about how thick the paint was. It turned out the car had been a rebuilder and already had three costs of paint.
Thanks for the batch code reminder. I am not brush or rolling a steel or Masonite house door again. Krylon or Rustoleum work very well there.
 

603mustangs

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If I tap on reply my entire screen gets hijacked searching old posts, can't tell what is what it if I even hit post reply...
 
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603mustangs

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Ok, before I answer this in detail, cause it’ll take away some of my valuable drinking time in order to do so......and I don’t mean to sound condescending or arrogant, Would you like a real answer to this post?
So I'm guessing both the paint and clear coat contribute to a mirror finish, not just a polished clear coat? Remember those hardhats that hold 2 beers with a straw. It's my Googleing/youtubeing hat, improvise, overcome, adapt
 
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603mustangs

Advanced Member
Sep 19, 2016
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New Hampshire
Kurt, I was keeping the answer simple on purpose. Wet sanding a rattle bomb job is a pain. Getting it smooth enough to look good with clear coat is a very trying project with trying to get the temperature, humidity and dry time optimal in your home garage.

My 87 Cougar peeled the clear coat, starting at the front, while I was in grad school. So I had fun painting flames. I left it until I had a better paying job than a being a GTA and a part-time counter pro. Anyway, I gave up on sanding and resprayed the sanded area so it all had the same texture.
Eventually, the body man cussed me out about how thick the paint was. It turned out the car had been a rebuilder and already had three costs of paint.
Thanks for the batch code reminder. I am not brush or rolling a steel or Masonite house door again. Krylon or Rustoleum work very well there.
I just sanded some rust oleum I painted a couple weeks ago, just clogged the paper
 
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603mustangs

Advanced Member
Sep 19, 2016
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New Hampshire
Ok, before I answer this in detail, cause it’ll take away some of my valuable drinking time in order to do so......and I don’t mean to sound condescending or arrogant, Would you like a real answer to this post?
Ok, did a lot of reading and videos, so glad I didn't waste your drinking time. I can make it real short, who do you recommend for a manufacturer for primer, paint, and clear coat. I polished the clearcoat on my repainted 86 when it was 8 years old, thought it was my awesome polishing job, was actually the prep work body guy did. I used to buy the cheap paint at home depot to finish projects we built. I'm not a painter, don't need the good stuff, paint is paint. Then I used Benjamin Moore for the first time, took half the time and looked much better. No seeing the drywall mud patches. So then it clicked, doesn't matter how much paint is on wall, if the wall isn't flat and joints sanded, paint isn't going to hide that. Painting the car black, don't want the home depot version of car paint.
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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Ok, did a lot of reading and videos, so glad I didn't waste your drinking time. I can make it real short, who do you recommend for a manufacturer for primer, paint, and clear coat. I polished the clearcoat on my repainted 86 when it was 8 years old, thought it was my awesome polishing job, was actually the prep work body guy did. I used to buy the cheap paint at home depot to finish projects we built. I'm not a painter, don't need the good stuff, paint is paint. Then I used Benjamin Moore for the first time, took half the time and looked much better. No seeing the drywall mud patches. So then it clicked, doesn't matter how much paint is on wall, if the wall isn't flat and joints sanded, paint isn't going to hide that. Painting the car black, don't want the home depot version of car paint.
Basically you got the idea now. Then each step needs to be done properly and with compatible products.

I know paint is pricey as hell and I won’t be a good source of information on the cheaper (value) paints.

The best paint to use to me is Sikkens and their slightly cheaper line Lesanol.

I’m not a huge fan of PPG or DuPont products.

Sherwin Williams has a decent system, but they’re pricey as Sikkens. Between the two it’ll always be Sikkens for me.

BASF has a couple decent lines as well.

Though all of these can be cross used, the manufactures won’t guarantee their paint if you do.
 
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603mustangs

Advanced Member
Sep 19, 2016
236
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New Hampshire
Basically you got the idea now. Then each step needs to be done properly and with compatible products.

I know paint is pricey as hell and I won’t be a good source of information on the cheaper (value) paints.

The best paint to use to me is Sikkens and their slightly cheaper line Lesanol.

I’m not a huge fan of PPG or DuPont products.

Sherwin Williams has a decent system, but they’re pricey as Sikkens. Between the two it’ll always be Sikkens for me.

BASF has a couple decent lines as well.

Those all of these can be cross used, the manufactures won’t guarantee their paint if you do.
Thank you for the info
 

603mustangs

Advanced Member
Sep 19, 2016
236
136
73
47
New Hampshire
Basically you got the idea now. Then each step needs to be done properly and with compatible products.

I know paint is pricey as hell and I won’t be a good source of information on the cheaper (value) paints.

The best paint to use to me is Sikkens and their slightly cheaper line Lesanol.

I’m not a huge fan of PPG or DuPont products.

Sherwin Williams has a decent system, but they’re pricey as Sikkens. Between the two it’ll always be Sikkens for me.

BASF has a couple decent lines as well.

Those all of these can be cross used, the manufactures won’t guarantee their paint if you do.
What is t
Basically you got the idea now. Then each step needs to be done properly and with compatible products.

I know paint is pricey as hell and I won’t be a good source of information on the cheaper (value) paints.

The best paint to use to me is Sikkens and their slightly cheaper line Lesanol.

I’m not a huge fan of PPG or DuPont products.

Sherwin Williams has a decent system, but they’re pricey as Sikkens. Between the two it’ll always be Sikkens for me.

BASF has a couple decent lines as well.

Those all of these can be cross used, the manufactures won’t guarantee their paint if you do.
I have etching primer already from previous por15 frame rust projects on my F350s. I have an HF gun for the primer. Is there a certain type primer/paint/clear coat is should get, i.e. acrylic? That is all compatible. O'reilly's, advanced and auto zone are all near me, do they sell this stuff? There may be other places I didn't know existing for paint, only been a shade tree mechanic. I'm only concentrating on prep and primer right now, don't want to screw myself with paint by using wrong primer

Mike
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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What is t
I have etching primer already from previous por15 frame rust projects on my F350s. I have an HF gun for the primer. Is there a certain type primer/paint/clear coat is should get, i.e. acrylic? That is all compatible. O'reilly's, advanced and auto zone are all near me, do they sell this stuff? There may be other places I didn't know existing for paint, only been a shade tree mechanic. I'm only concentrating on prep and primer right now, don't want to screw myself with paint by using wrong primer

Mike
When you say acrylic, I think you mean enamel. While good paint, it’s a bit dated. We use urethane products mostly now, polyester urethane if you want to be more specific.

Oreillys used to be a dealer for dupont products.

Look for a jibber that specializes in automotive paints, they’ll make their main money from selling to body shops, but they will sell to the general public as well. A big plus for these guys is that you’ll find they hire people with knowledge in body and paint work.

You can use a couple different primers if you want that won’t interfere with the top coats. Generally the choice is between urethanes and epoxies. I’m not such a fan of epoxies myself, though they do have a benefit of not lifting old paint jobs you might be priming over. They do harden like a rock and are difficult to block though.

Laquer primers should definitely be avoided.
 
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