Scarlet Rose Fckery.......

Is driving with your heel off the floor normal ? Driving with just your tip toes ?

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#121
Two big JB Weld kits (the two-part stuff in the toothpaste tubes) and some fiberglass and some sandpaper to fix all of those plastics.

Get it all lined up. Sometimes I will 'spot-weld' pieces with super glue.
Lay down a layer of the mixed two-part epoxy and press a single/thin layer of glass down over the top of it with your fingertip across the cracks.
Let it dry overnight
Sand it and re-apply another layer if necessary


The stuff that's behind stuff doesn't have to be pretty. :)
 
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#122
Well I did it :oops:ish....

Thanks babe for making me do it when I feel like I can't... this is a whole other world... but I can dig it:lol:
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#126
We used 3m04747. It bonds to the factory urethane bumpers like no other. The drywall mesh tape is reinforcing the back. That crack won't come back.

That's a good idea Noobz. I never thought about the JB weld on the header panel. That may hold up better than fiberglass and resin because of the shear strength. I'd have to get aggressive with the sand paper. I think I need to do a test piece.
 
#127
90sickfox said:
We used 3m04747. It bonds to the factory urethane bumpers like no other. The drywall mesh tape is reinforcing the back. That crack won't come back.

That's a good idea Noobz. I never thought about the JB weld on the header panel. That may hold up better than fiberglass and resin because of the shear strength. I'd have to get aggressive with the sand paper. I think I need to do a test piece.
Click to expand...
Definitely do a test piece.

I discovered this when I was trying to find replacement parts for 80's and 90's era Sea Ray boats (large-ish dual V8 stern drives). Some of the interior and exterior plastics are no longer made. It meant finding ways to preserve the old and often cracked plastics. The only replacements are from salvage yards and they're just as old and brittle.

What's nice is that you'd think the hairs from the fiberglass would be a pain. They're not. First sanding takes out all the fuzz and leaves a rough but strong surface behind. To make it smooth (pretty), add a mother thin layer and resand. Prime it, paint it, whatever you want. The cracks are now the strongest part of the piece. :shrug:

I tried the fiberglass after discovering that the JB Weld by itself wasn't cutting it on some of the cracks. The fiberglass fixed that.

I've used this method mostly for stuff that just needs to be strong but is otherwise covered. I have made (re-made) broken exterior corners etc., for some pieces. Once it's painted, you can't tell a difference. Just overbuild the area and sand it to your desired shape.


With any luck, I'll remember to take some pictures of it tomorrow.
 
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#129
Nice work. Deja Vu for me as I did same thing on my wife’s 96 a couple weeks ago. It took me about 4 days to do a complete front end rebuild as it was so bloody hot here in Oregon. I was working mainly from 8- midnight and a few hours in the morning. My wife does not like to do mechanical stuff but she loves to wax and detail cars ;)
 
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#131
Crocks are not the best choice for mechanicing. Dark socks just help hide the blood. It sounds like something I’d have to remind my helper about.
I have had great results with Liquid Wrench penetrant. I have not seen the Castle brand. Does it stink less? The 50/50 ATF and Acetone mix works best, and does not smell anywhere near as bad as it sounds. I just am careful about using acetone near plastics. Acetate screwdriver handles will not be the same after prolonged contact.
 
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