Set Base Timing with CalCon?

[vristang]

Maybe this is a dumb question, as I have not had a chance to try it.

If you pull the spout connector from the dist., would CalCon show base timing?

It seems to me this would be easier than getting out the timing gun.

Just a thought,
jason

 

[blksn955.o]

I think the eec aways assumes that the spout is in, and that is the whole reason we pull the spout, to take the computer control away from the timing. I am not sure but just for the sake of not guessing I would just use a light, at least that way you can tell if the ball. is going bad.

 

[vristang]

Well, it was an idea.

Can I ask where your spark advance usually is at idle and how much it fluctuates?
Where would I look to know what my advance at idle should be?
Would this be a Table or Function?

My timing gun is retarded.
It doesn't work, and if you touch the signal wire it shocks you.

The other part of my problem is my 351w is pieced together, so even if I get a new timing gun, I can't be sure that the indicator that's on it is right.
I hope this post doesn't get me

jason

 

[blksn955.o]

its a table, several tables for that matter.

I would get the whole "shock" thing taken care of first though, you dont want to be tuning around mach. issues.

The spark table biggies are the spark_base, spark_boarderline, spark_mbt, and spark_altittude(sp?) tables. In order to get what is commanded there are a few ways to "skin" the cat or get control.

1. to put 55's in all tables listed above cept' the base table and use that only.

2. enter 55's in the mbt, boarderline table and make the base and alt. table match at the rpm/load (most just adjust the upper 2-3 rows) you want.

As far as the timing tab, I would search out the part number of the timing cover and maybe buy the correct timing mark to do some realy in depth research on how it should look, what parts are diff. The biggest "tune" reason I say fix the mach. stuff is...well you have to have the base set to 10* and any more or less will be in addition to what your commanding as the eec "Thinks" the dizzy is at 10* and 10* only. In order for your timing changes you MUST have the correct base settings or who knows how far off your timing/tune will be as far as that timing.

 

[vristang]

So today I pulled the spout plug while CalCon was running. CalCon just froze up until I put the spout back.

The dist and wires weren't shocking me, just the timing gun. This thing was passed on to me by my dad, so I don't want to toss it, but it is just worthless.

I'll look around for a new timing indicator.
Shouldn't be too hard to find?

In the mean time I will try to disable all but one spark table, as you described above, then it should be pretty easy to tell where my timing should be. At idle it should be base_timing + 10. If it isn't, then I can change the timing until it is atleast close.

I'm still curious how much the timing should vary (as read from CalCon) at idle.
Is a 10 degree range normal?
Or should it be within 1 degree?

Thanks
jason

 

[blksn955.o]

At idle timing is all over the place, a better thing to do is take it around the block and get on it alittle in like 1st or 2nd (pref. NOT in a neighborhood) and look at the log. Datalog the load, rpm, and timing. Look at your load in the log and see what timing it shows. Then go into your sprark_base table and find that load and see if the spark matches up to what your commanding.

Realy the only spark changes needed (unless under boost) are in the top 2-3 rows or loads in the table. Idle timing gets into some complicated idle smoothness, idle, idle A/F, type stuff that ford has down preaty well.