should i be disapointed with the hp output of my motor

[diddylx50]

Someone on this forum just made a point that his less modified motor made the same hp as mine and i was wondering if my motor should make more hp then it does.

The motor is a DSS 306 w/edelbrock heads, e-cam, rpm 2 intake, 65mm throttle body, 73mm mass air, msd 6al, electric fan, shorty headers, and full 2 1/2in exhaust. The car is an auto with a non lockup converter so i know that takes alot more power at the wheels then a stick does. When i went to the dyno it put out 296hp and 310tq with a super rich air fuel ratio of 11.5 to 1.

Andrew

 

[12sec67]

you still need to tune your air fuel mixture... don't worry about it till you have everything tuned together right. you could gain alot having the correct fuel curve. i'm still working on mine... it takes time.

 

[N8Miller]

Honestly, i dont think those numbers are that bad. 300 to the wheels is decent and you can tune it better. dont foget its an auto and you can swap out your 73mm MAF for a 75 or 77mm and you could go long tubes to get a few xtra horses out of your pony.
dont be discouraged, with a bit leaner mix, you could be in the 300s easy.

 

[diddylx50]

How much power can I expect from the proper air/fuel ratio and a set of long tubes and mac pro-chamber? 310rwhp?

Andrew

 

[mike keirstead]

How much power can I expect from the proper air/fuel ratio and a set of long tubes and mac pro-chamber? 310rwhp?

Andrew

I think there is 308-310 rwhp left in the tuning. Get that a/f to 12.7:1 or so.

The longtubes and the chamber will boost power also. I would say 315-320 with a good tune and exhaust at the wheels.

Did the person who made a comment about your low power have an AUTO?

Also I think that RPM II is to much intake for the heads and cam you have. You may also benefit from a 70 mm TB.

 

[diddylx50]

I think there is 308-310 rwhp left in the tuning. Get that a/f to 12.7:1 or so.

The longtubes and the chamber will boost power also. I would say 315-320 with a good tune and exhaust at the wheels.

Did the person who made a comment about your low power have an AUTO?

Also I think that RPM II is to much intake for the heads and cam you have. You may also benefit from a 70 mm TB.

the person never responded when i told him that my car was an auto. I thought that the rpm 2 was too much but the car really likes it for some reason. I had a cobra upper and lower on the car before (nasty nitrous backfire killed the cobra upper...no longer have nitrous) but with the rpm2 on the car now it screams above 5000rpm. I have no dyno numbers with the cobra so for all I know I might of lost power even tho it feels faster. My goal is 320hp at the wheels so im gonna get the long tubes, prochamber, electric water pump, and rent the dyno for an hour so I can mess with fuel pressure and timing.

Thank you
Andrew

 

[mike keirstead]

You should be at 320 rwhp with a good tune and new headers and exhaust.

 

[mike keirstead]

By the way what does your car run for 1/4 #. Low 12s- high 11s?

 

[Highbredcloud]

That's A LOT of power your making with that E-cam in there...what sort of edelbrock heads do you have??? You're making more power than me and I have a 5 speed now...Really impressive numbers. Was this a dynojet or a Mustang dyno?

 

[diddylx50]

By the way what does your car run for 1/4 #. Low 12s- high 11s?

i managed a 12.42 at 109.6 on nittos but the motor is in much better shape now(had bad valveseals and the motor would burn so much oil and had a miss to it) . When i first took the car to the dyno it was making 287hp and 299tq but the air/fuel was in the 9s. I ran the car in that condition. Since then ive got the rpm2, anderson powerpipe, dropped the fuel pressure (picked up 9hp and 11tq), and some mickey thompson et streets. I think as it sits now its good for 12.2s at 110 or 111. Gonna run it again as soon as the track opens back up

 

[diddylx50]

That's A LOT of power your making with that E-cam in there...what sort of edelbrock heads do you have??? You're making more power than me and I have a 5 speed now...Really impressive numbers. Was this a dynojet or a Mustang dyno?

The heads are edelbrocks new versions of the edelbrock performer line. They have 1.90 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves and have not been ported in any way. The cam is crane cams version of the e-cam(same lift, duration, and lobe seperation) but they claim for it to make more power then the regular ford e-cam. The run was done on a dynojet and the numbers were SAE corrected.

 

[mike keirstead]

i managed a 12.42 at 109.6 on nittos but the motor is in much better shape now(had bad valveseals and the motor would burn so much oil and had a miss to it) . When i first took the car to the dyno it was making 287hp and 299tq but the air/fuel was in the 9s. I ran the car in that condition. Since then ive got the rpm2, anderson powerpipe, dropped the fuel pressure (picked up 9hp and 11tq), and some mickey thompson et streets. I think as it sits now its good for 12.2s at 110 or 111. Gonna run it again as soon as the track opens back up

I think with a set of slicks and a healthy burnout it will go high 11s when you get it sorted out. What does it weigh?

300 rwhp is more than enough for 11s on a car with excellant traction and weighs less than 3200 lbs.

 

[EMW150]

Yeah, don't take the dyno #s as gospel in your case. An auto with a lock-up convertor is not going to show it's muscle on the dyno. Use it for tuning to get your optimum tune but you lose too much especially with a non-lock up convertor to see what the engine is making. I think you'll see mid to upper 11s pretty easily if your gearing and traction are good.

 

[90mustangGT]

I wouldn't worry about HP numbers, they are just numbers, it's who pulls harder that counts. I don't understand people who race on the dyno. The dyno is really for tuning purposes. So what if another car makes more peak HP, what about the tq curve?

 

[diddylx50]

The car weighs 3220lbs with me in it. I run 3.73s, full drag suspension(lakewood 70/30 struts and 50/50 shocks, steeda upper and lower control arms, eibach drag launch kit), 3500 stall converter and the car usually gets in the range of 1.75 60ft time spinning the first 5 or 10 feet out. Im not to sure about an 11 second timeslip out of the car but I wouldnt be surprised with a 12.1 or 12.2.

My plans on the 320rwhp and 11.99 all motor pass are to add the long tubes, mac prochamber, 70mm throttle body, more tuning, solid motor mounts and trans mount, tubular k-member, tubular a-arms, coilovers, manual rack, electric water pump, and removing the smog pump.

Does adding these parts sound good and should that get me into the 11s for sure?

Andrew

 

[Black331Stang]

yeah get it tuned right....just think rationally...even if u are only around 300 after tuning....one of the fastest streeted cars (street racing) is the z06 and thats only pushing i think like 330-340 to the wheels... so its not bad at all.....but 300 can do alot in the quarter, and its not only HP that matters

 

[mike keirstead]

300 rwhp is MORE than enough to push a 3200 pound car with traction into the 11s. I have seen it done many times.

 

[autoXr1]

I think, as others have mentioned, your combo just needs a decent computer tune with a dyno, wide-band O2 sensor, and a tuner with a laptop. They typically run in the $650 range. That is, a good one that looks at cold idle, warm idle, cruise, WOT, etc.

I'm not sure that peak HP numbers are what anyone really wants anyhow. Sure, they may be good for bragging rights at your shop's "dyno days" event, but that's about as far as it goes. I wouldn't really worry about peak numbers. What's the average torque and horsepower from idle to peak? How does it perform on the track? How's the drivability? The better motor might not have the best peak numbers.

 

[diddylx50]

300 rwhp is MORE than enough to push a 3200 pound car with traction into the 11s. I have seen it done many times.

The dragstrip will be opening up in about a month or so and ill send you a pm letting you know how I did. Ill probably be running the car as it is now cause i wont have the time to get it back to the dyno and tune it some more. Thanks everyone for your help!

Andrew

 

[diddylx50]

I think, as others have mentioned, your combo just needs a decent computer tune with a dyno, wide-band O2 sensor, and a tuner with a laptop. They typically run in the $650 range. That is, a good one that looks at cold idle, warm idle, cruise, WOT, etc.

I'm not sure that peak HP numbers are what anyone really wants anyhow. Sure, they may be good for bragging rights at your shop's "dyno days" event, but that's about as far as it goes. I wouldn't really worry about peak numbers. What's the average torque and horsepower from idle to peak? How does it perform on the track? How's the drivability? The better motor might not have the best peak numbers.

As for the motors driveablity its great. Idles at 750rpm and pulls till 6000rpm. Runs at 180 degrees all day and is still emissions legal when I have cats on the car. I do now know how much hp and tq the motor put out down low cause i started the dyno run at 3500rpm in third cause of the high stall and didnt want the trans to kick back into 2nd. I also didnt get the printout of my runs cause the printer was broken at the time so im waiting for the people to emial them to me.

Andrew