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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

show off your .................. gauges

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike78
  • Start date Start date Mar 5, 2007
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mike78

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
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Mar 5, 2007
#1
  • Mar 5, 2007
  • #1
okay, tach funky, speedo broke(need new gear), temp dead, alt dead......
at least the fuel guage still works
I am considering a new guage look, as my mechanical guages (oil press, h2o temp) are hard to see where their at --------- any inspirational pics out there?
I promise I won't copy.............(exactly)
 

roadsterII

Founding Member
May 4, 2001
351
24
29
West Michigan
Mar 6, 2007
#2
  • Mar 6, 2007
  • #2
not sure if this is what you had in mind

rII
 

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dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
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17
Winston-Salem, NC
Mar 6, 2007
#3
  • Mar 6, 2007
  • #3
I have those exact same gauges! ..in my 68 that is

d
 

roadsterII

Founding Member
May 4, 2001
351
24
29
West Michigan
Mar 6, 2007
#4
  • Mar 6, 2007
  • #4
only I would cut up a 68' for a II....
 
G

Gael

Founding Member
Jan 26, 2002
649
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Tucson, AZ
Mar 6, 2007
#5
  • Mar 6, 2007
  • #5




edit: found a less blurry one.

 
D

DORGINATOR

New Member
Jan 5, 2007
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Mar 7, 2007
#6
  • Mar 7, 2007
  • #6
very sweet
all that works in my dash is the speedo and fuel, and an added oil pressure gauge.
i'll probably custom replace the whole face in due time.
 

77cobraman

New Member
Nov 26, 2006
40
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0
mooresville nc
Mar 7, 2007
#7
  • Mar 7, 2007
  • #7
Gael said:




edit: found a less blurry one.

Click to expand...


now that is sweet did you make it? i want one!!!!
 
G

Gael

Founding Member
Jan 26, 2002
649
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17
Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2007
#8
  • Mar 7, 2007
  • #8
My dad and I did it.. it involved some 'modifying' of plastic pieces behind where the gauges sit.

You know those aluminum sheets that you sometimes see on the bottoms of doors? I dunno how to explain it well. Well, we bought a piece of that, cut it to size, then figured out what gauges we wanted where, cut those out to size to fit the gauges, then of course had to cut the wiring harness for the factory gauges, getting the wires we needed, and extending them onto the gauges we bought.

It's a pretty long and tedious process, and I absolutely hate wiring, so it was all the more painful for me.. but luckily I had a patient brother with me to help with the wiring, and a patient dad to help with the designing portion.

My uncle had a nice gauge setup on another II that we had, with VDO gauges, so we changed it up with the Autometer gauge setup. We took a lot of what was already done originally and adapted it to mine. I need to find a way to add a few more gauges after I finish the EFI swap.. I really want an in-car fuel pressure gauge.
 

kcobra302

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2000
864
1
16
latham ny
Mar 8, 2007
#9
  • Mar 8, 2007
  • #9
i wanted to have something with a little more accuracy than the stock guages. i went with easy removal in case i want to go back to stock. probably would take less than an hour to remove them all.

fuel guage is just visible under the cover and it mounted in the cowl. inside the car: clock and volts in the dash pod. h2o and oil under the glove box and a small tach on the steering column. dash pod is something i always wanted to do but was not sure how it would look. a member on this site posted pics of his dash pod setup and i really liked it.
 

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Steel Steeds

New Member
Aug 31, 2005
234
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Portland, OR
Mar 8, 2007
#10
  • Mar 8, 2007
  • #10
kcobra302 said:
i wanted to have something with a little more accuracy than the stock guages.QUOTE]

I'm surprised at that comment, I was shocked and pleased by the accuracy of the stock gauges. My fuel gauge in the '77 maybe reads a little higher than most, but it's startlingly consistent: I run out of gas the moment the needle covers the last line. I've done that 3 times, always exactly the same spot (most cars let the needle go a ways under the line, not mine). My speedo was dead on the money every time I tested it, tach seems spot-on, temp gauge is extremely consistent, and the clock keeps damn near perfect time! My only complaint is the lack of an oil pressure gauge, which a setup like your dash pod would be ideal for. That does look very sharp.
Click to expand...
 

kcobra302

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2000
864
1
16
latham ny
Mar 8, 2007
#11
  • Mar 8, 2007
  • #11
i guess inaccurate is not the best of terms when comparing guages that have numbers intead of a hot/cold type sweep.

the only one i could compare is the tachs and the new reads about 400 rpm higher. i also borrowed a monster tach from a friend to confirm the higher reading.

keep in mind this in no race car or highend combination but the engine and electronics are far from stock which could be the reason for the difference.
 

parthos

Founding Member
Sep 21, 2000
529
1
0
Bismarck ND
Mar 10, 2007
#12
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #12




 

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Gael

Founding Member
Jan 26, 2002
649
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17
Tucson, AZ
Mar 10, 2007
#13
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #13
parthos, did you just gut the original assembly and replace w/ autometers? that looks real sweet.
 

kcobra302

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2000
864
1
16
latham ny
Mar 10, 2007
#14
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #14
very nice. i like the look.
 

77cobraman

New Member
Nov 26, 2006
40
0
0
mooresville nc
Mar 10, 2007
#15
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #15
parthos said:




Click to expand...

dang yall got it going on!!!! mine is pretty much plain jane witha big tach on the steering coloum
 

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77cobraman

New Member
Nov 26, 2006
40
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mooresville nc
Mar 10, 2007
#16
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #16
i also like the woodgrain face
 

parthos

Founding Member
Sep 21, 2000
529
1
0
Bismarck ND
Mar 11, 2007
#17
  • Mar 11, 2007
  • #17
Gael said:
parthos, did you just gut the original assembly and replace w/ autometers? that looks real sweet.
Click to expand...

I did this a long time ago, I think late 90s. Anyway, I hit up the junk yard and got another gauge cluster and modified that. What you need to do is to pretty much hog out the factory gauge cluster for the new gauges to fit. To top it off, you also need to pretty much disassemble the new gauges to get measurements etc. Then I also had to fab up some rear mounting brackets for the tach, and speedo. The three smaller gauges are friction fit, and the clear plastic front holds those in nicely. Then the last thing is to make a little wiring harness because you do away with that printed circuit board. The wiring harness is for the gauge lights, blinkers and warning lights. I cut out the old "high beam" indicator out of the junkyard speedo, and put it in with the other warning lights to make things work. The back doesn't look pretty, but no one sees it anyway. What's really cool about this, is that all gauges are now electrical, no more amp gauge, no more and the speedometer is programmable fore tires sizes, and gear ratios. The toughest part is getting the holes drilled out right so things line up correctly.

 

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feeble

Member
Jul 31, 2000
44
2
6
Yankton, SD
Mar 12, 2007
#18
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #18
I was shooting for a MII look but.... more.... The turn signals and high beam indicator are LED. The panels are laser cut bushed aluminum with clear powder coating.



More info is here:

http://www.spacmann.net/wordpress/?page_id=10

and more pictures here:

http://www.spacmann.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=735
 

itsaMustangtoo

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
292
0
0
Carlisle,Pa
Mar 13, 2007
#19
  • Mar 13, 2007
  • #19
nice
feeble said:
I was shooting for a MII look but.... more.... The turn signals and high beam indicator are LED. The panels are laser cut bushed aluminum with clear powder coating.



More info is here:

http://www.spacmann.net/wordpress/?page_id=10

and more pictures here:

http://www.spacmann.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=735
Click to expand...
 
G

Gael

Founding Member
Jan 26, 2002
649
1
17
Tucson, AZ
Mar 13, 2007
#20
  • Mar 13, 2007
  • #20
Man.. and I was impressed with my work. You guys have some awesome setups!
 
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