Question no-one asked.... is this in a smog state? Does it need to pass the sniffer or a visual inspection? This will be a deciding factor in parts acquisition.
Stock Shortblock, 350-375 Hp With Hci?
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Power adders man! I daily drove mine for a few years, and it puts 500/600 to the tire.
Kurt
- Mar 2, 2015
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No pics yet.... I leave in the dark....and come home in the dark this time of year.
I hope she's ok.Interesting, when I first started looking into tuning I ran across Tweecer, dug a little further and found Quarterhorse to be a much more updated EFI solution. And now PiMP. So the Quarterhorse is cheaper, but if I remember right I have to also buy Software + hardware to burn chip + chip (if I don't want to leave the battery powered quarterhorse plugged in all the time). The PiMP replaces the ECU completely, so I imagine that I edit that ECU with a laptop and then leave it in the stock ECU location. Does the PiMP allow you to tune in real time with the engine running like the Quarterhorse? Also I saw on the PiMP website that there are wiring modifications necessary for a 94-95 5.0. I have a lot of questions about PiMP and also what the differences are between it and Megasquirt, maybe there is a FAQ or summary thread I can find to answer these questions.
It is! Unfortunately. HOWEVER, vehicles 25 years or older are exempt from emissions testing in Texas. So once I get my inspection in January of 2018 I'll be in the clear for all future inspections, off goes the stock mid-pipe and on goes an off-road mid-pipe. And I might look into removing the smog pump depending on the benefits and ease. I'll also get whatever EFI tuning solution I plan on using after that inspection. So needless to say, January can't come soon enough.
They are both built using the same hardware and use the same software. However the Pimpxs allows for sequential injection because it is ms3 (megasquirt3) based.
Options are endless with these units. Both offer plug and play solutions but if you wanted to you could build your own ms3 very affordably. Then if you get a junk ecu you can build a break out board from it and use it to plug into your factory harness.
Using an explorer 5.0 balancer and front dress you can easily convert to coil on plug as well. The explorer balancer has a trigger wheel factory installed and a vr sensor. Throw the distributor in the trash and step up to a modern ignition. Now you have full sequential spark and fuel with the ability to tune each cylinder individually. (Not needed at you power level but cool anyway)
Or even a standard diypnp ecu will do what you want.
What kind of functionality are you looking for?
When it comes to EFI, I don't know enough to even know what I don't know, or what functionality I want. But it looks like PiMPx would cost me $820 just for the ECU. And I still would have to buy a wideband O2 sensor. I'm not looking to ditch the distributor unless there is a good reason, I don't know of a power limit for distributor ignition that would hurt me in the future. I also don't know what the limitations are of the EEC-IV that would prevent me from doing HCI or a 351-based stroker in the future. There again when it comes to EFI, I don't know what I don't know...
Before you start spending your money on tuning equipment, get the car running and driving well.
Your plans don't require anything more than matching injectors and meter.
If the goal is 325rwhp or less, that would be 24's.
When it's all said and done and you want to tweak it with some tuning, go ahead, but it's far from necessary and IMO counter productive to even touch the tune before the car is done and correct.
Don't complicate something that is really very simple.
The fox computer very adaptable.
Your plans don't require anything more than matching injectors and meter.
If the goal is 325rwhp or less, that would be 24's.
When it's all said and done and you want to tweak it with some tuning, go ahead, but it's far from necessary and IMO counter productive to even touch the tune before the car is done and correct.
Don't complicate something that is really very simple.
The fox computer very adaptable.
Thanks.
Lets keep in mind making power with puny E7te's is an entirely different exercise than making power with a "real" cylinder head.
I agree with the others with regard to tuning.
Even my stupid high-strung/pizzed-off little 306 started up, and fell into an idle, and drove well with the factory tune and a calibrated MAM/injectors.Shows how flexible the factory junk is.
$900 dyno tune/chip and I'm off and running with ~10% more hp/tq and a little better drive-ability (never going to be Toyota-like), still, it fired, idled and ran... and that is an angry little motor. Likely half that cost to deal with a more mild/less finicky setup.
You're looking at dropping near double that for tuning something that is likely going to end up much more mild than what I deal with... and you are going to spend way more than a day tuning/struggling to optimize it all. You are still going to need a dyno, or, a drag strip to tune at. Note sure how efficiently your drag strip operates, but I'm lucky to get 3 runs in on a Friday night... That's a lot of Friday nights to get things dialed in, especially when you'll be learning, and going the wrong way often.
If it is something you want to conquer, then I get it, otherwise... doesn't make sense to me.
Thanks for the perspective. I keep reading that the 94-95 ECU's are more picky even when it comes to just HCI swaps, especially if I was to change out injectors and MAF. So I'm not sure I could get away with not tuning it. But I don't know that I need anything more complex (expensive) than something that piggybacks off of the stock EEC-IV. I like to tinker so the thought of tuning my car does interest me, but I'm not sure how far down the rabbit hole I want to go or need to go.
Thanks. The car runs and drives really well. It actually was way down on power when I first bought it and kind of idled weird on cold starts. After giving the car a full tune-up and no change, I cleaned the MAF and voila everything ran great.
The reason I am considering "tuning" the car before any major mods is to get rid of the spark tip-in retard, which is specific to the 94-95 computers. As much as 15 degrees of timing can be pulled during shifts. With a tune I can remove that and get some more consistent power delivery when going from 1st-2nd or 2nd-3rd. The 94-95 computers also calculate spark advance for WOT based on load RPM and engine load, whereas the older computers are just based off of RPM. This is what makes the 94-95 cars finicky with induction modifications. If I tune that feature out I should be able to do HCI and have a pretty good running car to start with, then gradually tinker over time.
Anyways that was my reasoning for looking into tuning even while the car is stock. A lot of my understanding of the 94-95 computers come from the article below.
http://webpages.charter.net/darrell1/mustang_efi.html
The SN computer is nothing like an old Foxbody computer. It doesn't respond well to mods at all. You might not get it running at all without a tune.
Kurt
Kurt
Same thing in Georgia. Just 3 more years to go. If it helps any, my car aces emissions with only 2 cheapy Magnaflow converters, and nothing else.
Kurt
I was referring to FAC 170s which most definitely are cheaper than 11Rs. I probably wouldn't do it that way, but then my builds do snowball out of control.
FAC 170s are common 300 whp heads. That falls in line nicely with a cobra and 24s. On a 302, the Cobra is costing some power by then, though you can extend out a bit through lower porting.
24 lbs injectors on stock fuel pressure are at 90% duty cycle (flirting with going static) at 384 hp, or ~326rwhp.
It is unlikely to happen again, but if I were on the ground floor, feeling ambitious, and looking at a full build from scratch again, I'd plan to stop at the limits of the stock block looking at any heads/mild cam/intake combo that got me to 270+ at the wheel as affordable as possible, a centrifugal blower or turbo setup that did the rest of the work to take the car to the block's 500 rwhp limit (12-15 psi), 31-spline rear, TKO or T56 trans, Cobra or better brakes, 5 lug wheels, Control arms , subframes, springs, shocks, and a fuel system to support it (255 or 340 lph pump + boost-a-pump + 42 lbs injectors), and an SCT chip or quarterhorse.
Even your lower end of 300 puts you easily within striking distance of maxing the block in the future.
Until your post, I had never heard of the Pimp system, lol. Great name, though! Nice to know there's a pimp in the background controlling everything. Regarding tuning, I've played with the Tweecer and the Big Stuff 3 (a complete standalone). I just think its wise to use what your tuner recommends when you aren't tuning or what you can find a support community for when you are tuning. Unless you're an expert, finding help is far more important than having "the best" system.
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If a 94/95 computer really is that difficult then it may be even better to throw it on the shelf and replace it with a plug'n play Stinger Pimp/megasquirt ECU. Still more research to be done about what wiring modifications that Stinger says is required. I didn't want to be at the mercy of these "tuners" every time I change something with my combo or get the itch to further test the strength of my stock head gaskets with more boost. Some of them are incompetent and will blow your engine up and you're stuck with the bill. Now I just walk in assuming their idiots and I will question everything they say and do.
@Stinger - Shannon, Any insight on wiring modifications required for 94/95 Mustangs? I know you have your dedicated forum but maybe you can point this guy in the right direction.
@Stinger - Shannon, Any insight on wiring modifications required for 94/95 Mustangs? I know you have your dedicated forum but maybe you can point this guy in the right direction.
I feel street able is in the eye of the beholder. I run afr 185 on a 306 block, 42 injectors, custom cam,holly system max intakes, 70mm t/b with a pro charger and car is very driveable. Not sure of hp, figured over 500, but drives beautiful. I would be more concerned with suspension set up for daily driver. Imo
Yeah, streetable 500 with boost is easy. Streetable 350+ is more challenging with a 302.
