Supercharger or Heads, Cams and Intake... Can't Decide

So I have about 3K from my tax check coming and need help deciding on what to get. I was thinking about a basic supercharger kit or Fox Lake Stage 2 heads, cams and P-51 intake. I know since the money is about a month out that I can save more. I am a BIG fan of N/A cars. What set up would be best for power on the street and go with the mods I already have on the car. Thanks in advance :D
 
I'd like to see what kind of power you could make with H/C/I on a 4.6, but it would probably be a bit more than $3k, but so would a blower. you could probably make more power with the blower too.
 
I'm doing both :) I already have all the boltons, heads,cams...its not enough! now i'm shopping for some forged pistons/rods then its time for the boost. Too many guys in my area running around with 400HP street cars so i need to keep up.
 
droptopponynj said:
I'm doing both :) I already have all the boltons, heads,cams...its not enough! now i'm shopping for some forged pistons/rods then its time for the boost. Too many guys in my area running around with 400HP street cars so i need to keep up.
what kind of power you making with all that?
 
D'SDOUBLEOGT said:
I am leaning towards the Kenne Bell 1.7… I love the sound that the ’03 Cobras make and I think the KB will have the same whine.
You'd better start leaning towards some more money too, because even a 6psi KB is gong to cost you a lot more than $3,000. And don't count on it sounding like a Cobra either. The 1.7's even when spun really hard are very quiet by comparison. More of a rushing air sound than the audible supercharger "whine" you get with the 2.2L

If you want the whine on a better budget, you'd better grab yourself an Eaton based kit like the AED kit I’ve got instead http://www.allenengine.com/Steve_LowRes.wmv. They make plenty of noise Or a centrifugal charger if you think you might be satisfied with a "whistle" over a "whine". Either way though, you're going to have to kick in a little more than $3,000, no matter what kind of kit you go with.
 
just get a nice set of worked heads with some vt stage 2's. You dont need the intake right now. your gains will be negligabe(sp?) with one. My friends very close to stock weight full interior 2v with worked heads/cams, full exhaust bolt ons and tuning with 4.30s runs high 11's on slicks. Still has a/c, 4r70w tranny and traps 113. unless you are going with a turbo build up, i would go na with a small shot of nitrous down the road. Dont spin it past 6200 and keep it maintained and have some longevity without worrying that if you get the slightest detonation with a s/c that your are going to cra[ out a piston.....
 
If you'd like a great S/C. I've recently installed an ATI Procharger P-1SC running 8 p.si. with a 2 core intercooler AND 42# injectors. Ran me $3650 shipped from Sean Hyland Motorsport. www.seanhylandmotorsport.com The guy is great with cars and knows his stuff. The Diablo chip that comes with it isn't worth using. Use a tuner ( I went with SCT II handheld tuner). Just my 2 cents. Good luck with whatever you do. Anything is good. I also installed the S/C myself, so no labor install. :nice:
 
Why would I want to spend more money and get less power from it? Yes I would love to have that loud whine. But I’m sure that the KB will have a slight whine. My car has been a sleeper up until I decided to go FI. So a quiet whine will be fine.

Check out the prices and power levels that go with them and then tell me what would be a better choice!

http://www.allenengine.com/01must1.html

$4349 For 6 Psi and $4649 For 9 Psi
Adds 70-107 HP

http://www.kennebell.net/pricelist/SC-PRICELIST.pdf

$3700 For 6-9 Psi Non-intercooled
Adds 106 HP at 6 Psi and 160 at 9 Psi

Later on when the funds are available to get the intercooler ($1100.)
Then 14 Psi and gains of 260HP
 
D'SDOUBLEOGT said:
Why would I want to spend more money and get less power from it? Yes I would love to have that loud whine. But I’m sure that the KB will have a slight whine. My car has been a sleeper up until I decided to go FI. So a quiet whine will be fine.

Check out the prices and power levels that go with them and then tell me what would be a better choice!

http://www.allenengine.com/01must1.html

$4349 For 6 Psi and $4649 For 9 Psi
Adds 70-107 HP

http://www.kennebell.net/pricelist/SC-PRICELIST.pdf

$3700 For 6-9 Psi Non-intercooled
Adds 106 HP at 6 Psi and 160 at 9 Psi

Later on when the funds are available to get the intercooler ($1100.)
Then 14 Psi and gains of 260HP
Sorry, I forgot that the REV II Allen kits had gone up in price. I was originally thinking of the REV I kit when I posted this, which is only $3,399. Although still not as powerful, it's not bad where you compare it to the price of the Kenne Bell. As for power gains....don't put too much faith into what Kenne Bell states. Their adds always read like a creative writing assignment and if you're counting on seeing those numbers being a guarantee, you're going to be disappointed. Most are seeing far less horsepower than what Kenne Bell stated at specific boost levels, so keep that in mind when you're scanning over one of their adds. At 9psi, Even with the optional big tube kit a lot of owners are barely making the 405rwhp the Kenne Bell claims, I don't think a single one has made it without the optional induction components and in some cases, a few are making even less.

You initially stated that you wanted to hear the sound of an '03 Cobra, with the 2V and a 1.7L KB. Well, you're not going to get it with a 1.7L. Not even close. They're a very quiet blower by comparison. The only other way you're going to get that whine on a hamburger budget is go with an Eaton, which is why I suggested the Allen...or heck, even an FRPP would give you the noise, but yes it's going to cost you some power up top. Both of them are going to make pretty close to the same amount of power as the Non-intercooled KB will. As a matter of fact, the FRPP may even make a little more at that stage. So it's up to you which is more important to you. More noise, or more power. Either way, you're not going do either on a $3,000
budget. If more power beyond the 390-400rwhp mark is what you're after later on, then no the Eaton based kits probably aren't for you.
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
You'd better start leaning towards some more money too, because even a 6psi KB is gong to cost you a lot more than $3,000. And don't count on it sounding like a Cobra either. The 1.7's even when spun really hard are very quiet by comparison. More of a rushing air sound than the audible supercharger "whine" you get with the 2.2L

If you want the whine on a better budget, you'd better grab yourself an Eaton based kit like the AED kit I’ve got instead http://www.allenengine.com/Steve_LowRes.wmv. They make plenty of noise Or a centrifugal charger if you think you might be satisfied with a "whistle" over a "whine". Either way though, you're going to have to kick in a little more than $3,000, no matter what kind of kit you go with.

Not true :nono:

You can hear the whine of mine long before you can see the car or hear the exhaust :nice:

6lb is just under $4000

Get a supercharger, and you'll have way more power than you will make with bolt ons
You'll be very happy with it :D

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Jackie Chan said:
whats better...making power and getting your ass whipped by a bolt on cammed car ??? :rlaugh:

You need to be running faster than 12.9 to beat a KB :p

I looked into the whole cam and heads, etc but every camed car I've seen dyno graphs for have lost torque and usually HP below 3000RPM's

I don't know about you, but I drive below 3000RPM's 98% of the time.
I think we can all agree that the torqueless 2v wonder can't afford to lose any torque at all, so why would I trade any torque where I need it for some upper RPM HP that I will hardly use...it's my daily driver, not a race car..

With the KB I have full boost by 2000RPM's and WAY more torque than my 315's will hold
I think it's a lot more fun for a daily driver to have a twin screw

but that's just my 2 cents :shrug:
 
Blue70 said:
You need to be running faster than 12.9 to beat a KB :p

I looked into the whole cam and heads, etc but every camed car I've seen dyno graphs for have lost torque and usually HP below 3000RPM's

I don't know about you, but I drive below 3000RPM's 98% of the time.
I think we can all agree that the torqueless 2v wonder can't afford to lose any torque at all, so why would I trade any torque where I need it for some upper RPM HP that I will hardly use...it's my daily driver, not a race car..

With the KB I have full boost by 2000RPM's and WAY more torque than my 315's will hold
I think it's a lot more fun for a daily driver to have a twin screw

but that's just my 2 cents :shrug:
since my car didnt have a full exhaust and no cams and was a vert i wouldnt use it as an example, but there are numerous KB guys running in the 13's...if you dont put the power to the ground, wtf is the point:shrug: buying new tires from spinning and getting your ass whipped by 300rwhp car with all of your cool torque? 90% of the guys with blowers cant drive, 90% of the guys that stay NA and cammed can
 
Jackie Chan said:
since my car didnt have a full exhaust and no cams and was a vert i wouldnt use it as an example, but there are numerous KB guys running in the 13's...if you dont put the power to the ground, wtf is the point:shrug: buying new tires from spinning and getting your ass whipped by 300rwhp car with all of your cool torque? 90% of the guys with blowers cant drive, 90% of the guys that stay NA and cammed can

Getting the power to the ground is definitely key

I might be wrong in assuming that this is his daily driver, but like I said, why lose power where you use it the most? .....just to say you have a fast NA car?

It just don't make any sence to me :shrug: