Supercharging Stock Block 1995 Gt

gtfiveo

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Feb 19, 2017
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I'm new to the board and new to later model Mustangs. I'm in the process of building a 1995 Mustang GT. Odometer is broken so unsure of mileage. Car runs well and holds great oil pressure. It is not burning oil and each cylinder pressure tests between 130-150 lbs. So, I've decided to proceed with my "budget" build. The stock 8.8" rear end was rebuilt with new seals and bearings, added an Eaton Posi and 4.10 gears. The AODE was rebuilt with HD parts and a 2400 stall converter added. I'm ready to start the engine. I've sourced the following parts through friends - some used - to build HP. F303 cam, GT40x heads, SVO roller rockers, 1995 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm throttle body, Granatelli MAF set up for 42 lb injectors, Ford green top 42 lb injectors, BBk equal length headers, off road H-pipe and cat back exhaust. Aeromotive fuel pump and pressure regulator. Topping everything off is a Vortech V1 SI trim supercharger with 10 lb and 15 lb pulleys. I plan to run the 10 lb pulley on the stock bottom end. My friend asked me to get a Moates quarter horse tuner so we can tune it. I want to remove all of the smog on this thing, but not sure what is involved in this process. This car is a street car that will see occasional light strip duty. I'm looking for feedback on smog delete and other pointers. Looking forward to being a part of the community.
 
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Welcôme to stangnet.

I'll move your thread over to the General Talk section.

Use the tech section when you have a specific issue you're dealing with.

We'd love to see pictures of your build.

It's good to have you with us.
 
Let the stock cam. Let the stock maf and tune the injectors with the moates quarterhorse or tweecer . Take a 255 l/h walbro in tank fuel pump and a stock fuel regulator . The smog stuff removal is very ease . Done !
 
I'm new to the board and new to later model Mustangs. I'm in the process of building a 1995 Mustang GT. Odometer is broken so unsure of mileage. Car runs well and holds great oil pressure. It is not burning oil and each cylinder pressure tests between 130-150 lbs. So, I've decided to proceed with my "budget" build. The stock 8.8" rear end was rebuilt with new seals and bearings, added an Eaton Posi and 4.10 gears. The AODE was rebuilt with HD parts and a 2400 stall converter added. I'm ready to start the engine. I've sourced the following parts through friends - some used - to build HP. F303 cam, GT40x heads, SVO roller rockers, 1995 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm throttle body, Granatelli MAF set up for 42 lb injectors, Ford green top 42 lb injectors, BBk equal length headers, off road H-pipe and cat back exhaust. Aeromotive fuel pump and pressure regulator. Topping everything off is a Vortech V1 SI trim supercharger with 10 lb and 15 lb pulleys. I plan to run the 10 lb pulley on the stock bottom end. My friend asked me to get a Moates quarter horse tuner so we can tune it. I want to remove all of the smog on this thing, but not sure what is involved in this process. This car is a street car that will see occasional light strip duty. I'm looking for feedback on smog delete and other pointers. Looking forward to being a part of the community.


If you plan on adding boost, invest in an wideband o2 set up. The combination is fairly common no real issues from with I see except two:

I can't recall but I didn't think the F-cam played nice with the 94/95 computers ......ah I can tune that out...yes but there are better options for your set up...others will chime in here.

Second although Moates quarter horse has a following, by the time/money you invested in that you could have bought a Mega/or micro squirt and received a better product. However, there is a learning curve to all self tuning softwares and it appears to be a few and far between for support (we have Steve here for Megasquirt).

Save the headache, time, and money; take it to reputable tuner in your area, pay the $600-800 for it to be tuned and dyno and drive it.

When it comes to tuning, just because you can...doesn't mean you should...well unless you are ambitious, and fond of headaches

Best of luck, in for pics.
 
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Let the stock cam. Let the stock maf and tune the injectors with the moates quarterhorse or tweecer . Take a 255 l/h walbro in tank fuel pump and a stock fuel regulator . The smog stuff removal is very ease . Done !


I disagree here . 340 aeromotive in tank , adj fuel pressure reg with the base set at 42psi . 10 psi ?- I'd ditch the granatelli for a pro m or pmas meter 75-80mm . Been there done that and a quality meter makes a difference

. The 94-95 stuff doesn't play well with most cams although I know guys who tuned them and alievated that issue. Not an f cam fan I'd rather see you with like an Anderson b41 or b412 if you're going off the shelf for a cam but you have it so might as well use it .

I didn't see any ignition stuff mentioned . You are prob going to need a 6al to prevent spark blow out under boost . I run one on my car with the stock coil and stock dist and make just shy of 600 at the tire .

The smog stuff to remove is relatively simple . Once the tubes , pump and all is gone just need to put the plugs in the back of the heads you have for it to close the holes up .

Any other questions just ask .
 
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