Progress Thread Tannerc91gt’s Build(s) Thread
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Removed above downpipe. Installed o2 bung and reinstalled said downpipe. Then read instructions and see that they recommended it be further downstream than I have it. We'll see if it lives I guess.
Also started on the wiring. Main harness power and grounds are hooked up in the back and I moved on to wiring in the wideband, starter, alternator, and the 12v sources required by the MS3.
Which brings me to my question.
I have zero intentions of putting a radio in this car. A tablet and wideband gauge will live where the radio once was.
Is there any reason I can't use the 12v switched, headlight and 12v constant wires from the radio harness?
They're fairly large gauge wires (as Heavy or heavier gauge than what the ECU side has).
Seems like a really convenient source for all my needs.
Aforementioned harness:
Compliments to whatever chimp they trained to install the aftermarket radio. That tape job is impressive.
Anyone have a good diagram for what all these fellas are?
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Going to post this while I'm working on it today on the chance that someone will save me some headache. Getting under the dash of a car with a cage and a fixed seat is damn near impossible.
Wiring up the starter using the Ford solenoid today. Keep in mind that the Gm starter has a solenoid as well. Previously I just wired up the Gm solenoid and used a push button. For whatever reason I'd like to keep the key function to start the car. So I'm using the Ford solenoid as a GM remote solenoid conversion basically.
So I've got power directly from the battery to the FORD starter solenoid. From that SAME post I've got constant power to the big terminal on the LS starter. I've got an 8ga wire from the small post on the Gm starter to the cold side of the Ford Solenoid. And the purple pink wire coming from the car to the small post on the Ford solenoid.
As far as my understanding of these parts go, this should be correct. Key should power the solenoid and close the connection, turning the starter. If I jumper the two big posts on the FORD solenoid it turns over as it should.
So basically I think my issue is a neutral safety switch. I'm 99% sure this car was born an automatic.
So following the diagram, there's a NSS and a jumper where a clutch switch would have been.
Clutch switch jumper- check
Which leaves me looking for this which I need to jumper as well. Just want to ensure that I can crank this thing over with the key and then can readdress incorporating the NSS into my new shifter (don't own currently).
Any leads would be appreciated.
Wiring up the starter using the Ford solenoid today. Keep in mind that the Gm starter has a solenoid as well. Previously I just wired up the Gm solenoid and used a push button. For whatever reason I'd like to keep the key function to start the car. So I'm using the Ford solenoid as a GM remote solenoid conversion basically.
So I've got power directly from the battery to the FORD starter solenoid. From that SAME post I've got constant power to the big terminal on the LS starter. I've got an 8ga wire from the small post on the Gm starter to the cold side of the Ford Solenoid. And the purple pink wire coming from the car to the small post on the Ford solenoid.
As far as my understanding of these parts go, this should be correct. Key should power the solenoid and close the connection, turning the starter. If I jumper the two big posts on the FORD solenoid it turns over as it should.
So basically I think my issue is a neutral safety switch. I'm 99% sure this car was born an automatic.
So following the diagram, there's a NSS and a jumper where a clutch switch would have been.
Clutch switch jumper- check
Which leaves me looking for this which I need to jumper as well. Just want to ensure that I can crank this thing over with the key and then can readdress incorporating the NSS into my new shifter (don't own currently).
Any leads would be appreciated.
You have it right there.
Under the car there will be a (round plug I believe) it has the NSS circuit for the trans.
I believe it has 4 wires 2 for the NSS and 2 for the backup switch.
Alternatively on the driver side of the trans tunnel before they exit the interior you will find both red/blue wires.
Simply jumper the two and see if it fires.
Under the car there will be a (round plug I believe) it has the NSS circuit for the trans.
I believe it has 4 wires 2 for the NSS and 2 for the backup switch.
Alternatively on the driver side of the trans tunnel before they exit the interior you will find both red/blue wires.
Simply jumper the two and see if it fires.
- Dec 19, 2010
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This^ is true, i just had to replace the jumper in my son's car. I believe one wire is white/pink, the oher I don't recall... have to look it up.
Edit: jumper the red/light blue and white/pink for manual trans, or use them for nss. Like steve said, round plug, 4 pins, hangs from floorboard on driver side under the car.
Edit: jumper the red/light blue and white/pink for manual trans, or use them for nss. Like steve said, round plug, 4 pins, hangs from floorboard on driver side under the car.
Are you familiar with the Ms starter control? Part of the wiring manual asks that a wire be attached to the GM solenoid and another to the starter relay. ECU also ends up with a 12v cranking source so it seems that would be all the piece to the puzzle for running th circuit itself. I'd almost rather have it wired independently like I am doing. Just curious
My MS does not have a start reference circuit.... I simply have to tell it that anything below 450rpm is cranking....
You are running a pre-built ms3 yes?
You are running a pre-built ms3 yes?
I've got a plug and play harness. I've seen where I can tell it cranking RPM. Wondering if I should utilize the built-in function after all.
Another 9 hours in the garage that looks like I got about 45 minutes worth of progress done. Ran the rest of the fuel lines and put the tank back in the car. Need to run a wire to the pump and it will be good-ish. The stupid granatelli pickup thing with my big AN fittings is hitting the floor of the hatch and won't let me get the tank in correctly. I'll either spend hours fcking with it or do a sump like I should have to begin with.
My wideband is wired up and appears to be functional. All of the body connections for the MS are done. 12 switched is working fine to power the wideband but no signs of life from the ECU. Will not connect to my laptop through the USB. I lack the right adapter to use the serial port. Laptop is telling me it cannot install the driver.
So I'm not sure if it's a power issue, a software issue or something in between.
Stuck. Otherwise I could pour some 93 in the tank, throw in the truck injectors and fire this thing.
Scratch that, without jumping the connection the motor won't crank. Still no luck with the NSS. Though I was a bit distracted and didn't look for it again.
To get the MS to talk you will need a serial to usb adapter. It's a db9... rs232
Another 9 hours in the garage that looks like I got about 45 minutes worth of progress done. Ran the rest of the fuel lines and put the tank back in the car. Need to run a wire to the pump and it will be good-ish. The stupid granatelli pickup thing with my big AN fittings is hitting the floor of the hatch and won't let me get the tank in correctly. I'll either spend hours fcking with it or do a sump like I should have to begin with.
My wideband is wired up and appears to be functional. All of the body connections for the MS are done. 12 switched is working fine to power the wideband but no signs of life from the ECU. Will not connect to my laptop through the USB. I lack the right adapter to use the serial port. Laptop is telling me it cannot install the driver.
So I'm not sure if it's a power issue, a software issue or something in between.
Stuck. Otherwise I could pour some 93 in the tank, throw in the truck injectors and fire this thing.
Scratch that, without jumping the connection the motor won't crank. Still no luck with the NSS. Though I was a bit distracted and didn't look for it again.
The usb is for automatic datalogging.
This is all on a probably basis, i have not messed with the ms3 gold box before.
Andd all USB to serial adapters are not created equal,...there are "endorsed" adapters that they want to sell you I believe,...I have one and it used to work,......before I converted the thing over to bluetooth.
Mine is the Pro ECU for whatever that's worth. Instructions say you can connect through either. Though I'd have been happy to use the serial port. I've got a female connector on my laptop. It has a female connector off the harness. And came with a female to male adapter. Which adapts it to what it already was.... I need to drive into town and get a male to male plug I guess?
I'm downloading driver updates because I think that's where my issues lies. It's not installing the driver when I plug it in. My laptop is from probably 2009 so it's orovbably lacking in some areas. Can't bring myself to walk back out to the garage again tonight to test it so tomorrow will be D day.
If this fails I'll take the ECU apart and check the internal fuses.
The ad for the Bluetooth connector pops up every time I open TS. Worth doing?
Yes you are....
Things to make sure of.
Set the port you are trying to connect thru to com1 if possible.
Baud rate will need to be 11k or higher.
....
..
.
That's it it should connect.....
Once you have tuner studio open hit the communication button in the tool bar. Go into settings and hit test. Once it tests the port settings press the detect button. It should find the MS.
Things to make sure of.
Set the port you are trying to connect thru to com1 if possible.
Baud rate will need to be 11k or higher.
....
..
.
That's it it should connect.....
Once you have tuner studio open hit the communication button in the tool bar. Go into settings and hit test. Once it tests the port settings press the detect button. It should find the MS.
I will try this today. I was reading the manual and couldn't get to these steps, guessing because the driver didn't install. Downloaded the driver updates so we will see. I found the VREF pin location to check for 5v as well. If I don't have that then I've likely blown a fuse.
