I don't know yet, probably 500. I have a whole lot of research to do.
In other news, the engine is done short of the vent canisters and lines
Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?
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In other news, the engine is done short of the vent canisters and lines
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eBay part failure #1:
Clamp that holds waste gate on. Might explain the noise.
Clamp that holds waste gate on. Might explain the noise.
Dig the fact you kept your A/C. If I remember right from the post a pic of yourself thread, you are pretty young yet. I think at your age I was still deleting A/C to shave weight and have less junk under the hood. That happened at age 25 for me, and at age 25.5 I realized I was an idiot.
What,...that makes you 30?
So,...."post idiot" + 6 months.....
I'm still calling it like I see it.
What,...that makes you 30?
So,...."post idiot" + 6 months.....
I'm still calling it like I see it.
I just went back a page to catch up, and see the 4r70w talk. I wont even get started down that path with you.
This is the Hoopty 2.0 ... Version 1 had all of the idiocy in it and we are doing it right this time haha
It's easier than sticking a T-5 in, he says. This will bolt to that, he says.(It did, but I didn't check if had had this, or if I had that) No big deal once you do this, he says. (And in reality, it wouldn't have been, but he forgot it was me we're talkin' about) Well I say its a little more complicated than he makes it sound, but that's just me.( Didn't I already say that?) Course we are talking about a Ford Ranger here, but its basically a Mustang with a bed and I beams...( Yeah, and if you believe that,..I've got a perfect custom hood that fit's a 2011 Mustang that I'll sell you for cheap...)
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Chris look at how much a 4R70W with a brake costs. Then you'll have your answer.
There Nick,...I went ahead and said what you really meant to say......for you.
So, in essence, I fixt it.
Since the original was so fraught with mis-statements,...let's clarify.
#1. You just went out and had one rebuilt. Your transmission guy (Who'd been doing it for a billion years)didn't know that there was a difference between the bell housings, yet I get blamed. Go figure.
#2. The flexplate had to be changed to a 164t piece. How did we not know this?
#3. When the flexplate needed changing that required that the block plate be changed as well. ONE of us drove almost 180 miles round trip to buy one,...while this little piggie just stayed home...........and modified the old one to fit.
No trouble,.. it starts, runs, and works just like it's supposed to. Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy.
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I'm starting to get cold feet with this auto swap business. Having that fourth gear and being able to handle a certain amount of power is very expensive.
Here's a rough parts list.
Auto:
- Built 4R - $2600
- Converter - $800
- Cooler/lines - $250
- Shifter/cable - $200
- Flexplate/dust shield - $250
Total:
$4100
And by comparison, if I went with a TKO 600
- Trans - $2400
- Clutch - $339
- Flywheel - $239
- already have a bellhousing
Total:
$2978
So there you have it. 27% cheaper to go manual in my case, buying new parts .
If I decided to use a C4, the scales may tip back in favor of auto. Not sure how that would work out from a highway standpoint.
Thoughts?
Here's a rough parts list.
Auto:
- Built 4R - $2600
- Converter - $800
- Cooler/lines - $250
- Shifter/cable - $200
- Flexplate/dust shield - $250
Total:
$4100
And by comparison, if I went with a TKO 600
- Trans - $2400
- Clutch - $339
- Flywheel - $239
- already have a bellhousing
Total:
$2978
So there you have it. 27% cheaper to go manual in my case, buying new parts .
If I decided to use a C4, the scales may tip back in favor of auto. Not sure how that would work out from a highway standpoint.
Thoughts?
But since we're talkin about me having to either get the blame or the credit for what I say Collin.... @hoopty5.0
The tunnel is too small. You will have to modify it on the driver side to accommodate the linkage. Gut the transmission, and mock up the case, and you'll see where it needs to be cut. I just cut a big assed hole in the floor, and made a cover plate to give me the extra room. Additionally, Your crossmember will NOT work as well ( I made mine anyway)
There,....consider yourself warned, or advised. Whichever way you choose to take it.
The tunnel is too small. You will have to modify it on the driver side to accommodate the linkage. Gut the transmission, and mock up the case, and you'll see where it needs to be cut. I just cut a big assed hole in the floor, and made a cover plate to give me the extra room. Additionally, Your crossmember will NOT work as well ( I made mine anyway)
There,....consider yourself warned, or advised. Whichever way you choose to take it.
Well, in that post, no. I am uncertain of what the savings are if I built it myself. There are a few guys locally that have offered to help. But what do you think the savings are? Enough to justify staying the course?
How much highway time is the car going to see? What is your ultimate goal for the car? I think those 2 answers would determine if I went some form of overdrive trans or 3 speed auto. The manual will be a trade off in performance/consistency but always fun(you already know pro and con). More race car=auto. More fun street car=manual IMO.
More highway than racetrack. Ultimate goal is to do whatever I feel like doing with the car, and we all know how.. uhhmm... OH HEY LOOK A SQUIRREL!
I think the car and you would love the "built 4R"...the wallet not so much. Lol. I think the price difference would be worth it. At least that's how I would justify it. But heck I went with rebuilding my T5...again...so what do I know
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