reenmachine said:Here's what's been slowing me down on the convertible lately -- getting some work done on the ol' test mule. It rides, handles, steers, and stops like a new car now!
They're SCAT Procar Elites. I sell them on the website for $695 per pair complete with everything you need to put them in your Mustang:snowball said:Nice. Wish I could have a test mule like that.
I'm looking for a set of high back front seats for my 67 hardtop. What are those out of?
Keep up the great work.
Hi Reen,reenmachine said:Here's what's been slowing me down on the convertible lately -- getting some work done on the ol' test mule. It rides, handles, steers, and stops like a new car now!
reenmachine said:They're SCAT Procar Elites. I sell them on the website for $695 per pair complete with everything you need to put them in your Mustang:
http://www.reenmachine.com/parts.php
Nope, but I'd be happy to show you exactly what I did. It comes with the mount in the pic you attached, with holes that line up with the holes in your floor. They expect you to use a bolt & nut, which is no problem if you have someone to help you out. Make sure you use a grade 8 bolt and lock nut.stirling33 said:Hey Reen, Quick question in regards to the Elite seats - does that $695 come with your version of the seat rails with the welded studs, similar to the original?
reenmachine said:Nope, but I'd be happy to show you exactly what I did. It comes with the mount in the pic you attached, with holes that line up with the holes in your floor. They expect you to use a bolt & nut, which is no problem if you have someone to help you out. Make sure you use a grade 8 bolt and lock nut.
Bob-SN65 said:Hi Reen,
Do you have any shsots of the car from the rear at ride height?
Are the control arms parrallel with the ground?
Yes, I had a set made but I actually just sold them. They weren't quite perfect, and they have to be for the vert. I found a place here in AZ that can do the job perfectly and I'm about to get started on that. It'll run me about $350 per seat (not including the price of the seats themselves), so it's not cheap, but it'll be t*ts!SNAKEPILOT said:Reen,
Have you made any progress on the Comfortweave inserts for the elite seats?
Hi Reen,reenmachine said:Bob-
Here are some more pics. The control arms aren't as parallel to the ground as I'd like when the car is at the ride height I like. Dave at DVS has a good workaround for this that I am going to undertake that involves some modifications to the cradle. I saw it on one of his cars and it makes it perfect.
Hi E,Edbert said:Hehehehe Bob...guess having the inner chassis from a SN95 helps that out a bit eh?
Hi Reen,reenmachine said:The new cradle mods will lift all of that up over 2" into the car, so the rear appearances will be similar in the end.
To the cradle.65mistress said:Reen-
Does it involve metal manipulation to the cradle or the underside of the car?
Hi Reen,reenmachine said:The new cradle mods will lift all of that up over 2" into the car, so the rear appearances will be similar in the end.
I've done it a couple of different ways now. First, with the stock mount, I haven't experienced any problems associated with pinion angle (vibration @ speed, etc.). On the latest one I've used the Kenny Brown torque brace with the adjustable aluminum mounts.SN65 said:Hi Reen,
Are you using the stock pumpkin mounts? If so, are you making any modifications to allow for the altered pinion angle?
reenmachine said:1. The clamps are made for routing hydraulic hoses and you can probably find them at a decent industrial supply store.
2. The fuel line is Goodyear 300 psi fuel-rated socketless hose. All of the fittings I'm using are socketless on the hose end and AN on the other, and they're a mix of Aeroquip, Aeromotive, and Earl's.
3. The ECU is stock Ford EEC-V. There's a "Check Engine" light on the cluster, an OBD-II port under the dash, etc. All of the plugs are new, with the exception of a couple I cut from a new stock harness.
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